How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

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No Torque Wrench

If you don't have a torque wrench, a good rule of thumb is to first finger tighten, then add 1/2 (180 degrees) more turn. This applies to most vehicle spark plug changes, but of course, it's always better to use a calibrated torque wrench. 13 foot pounds, or 156 inch pounds...

I just finished changing them on my 98 using a torque wrench, and found 13 foot pounds to be very close to 1/2 turn past finger tight on all 6, plus or minus 5 or 6 degrees. I personally would feel very comfortable using this technique if I did not have a torque wrench on hand.

Hope this helps.
 
What brand of coil packs are people using?

I didnt see any brands I was familiar with from the big online stores. For the other cars I've owned its always been BOSCH coils and NGK plugs.
 
What brand of coil packs are people using?

I didnt see any brands I was familiar with from the big online stores. For the other cars I've owned its always been BOSCH coils and NGK plugs.

denso

stolen from another thread
I agree. The Denso part number for the OEM coil pack on my '99 V6 is 673-1201. Google it and you can find it lots of places for about $65, including RockAuto or Amazon. Beats $100 list at the dealer for the exact same thing.

the thread it came from along with write up linked to in that thread
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/84512-recommended-coil-packs.html#post730218
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL.../02rmsour/2002/024runne/ig5vzfe/ignsy/ovi.pdf
 
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I'm new to this site as well as owning a 4runner for the first time, but thanks for the plan of attack on the spark plugs. It helped me alot.
 
Thanks!

I followed these instructions today without any issues. My teenage sons assisted and had a good learning experience. Thanks much for this!
 
Without these instructions I would never had had the confidence to pull apart my 97 limited.

The passenger's side was an absolute breeze for the most part. Noticed a few vacuum tubes that need to be replaced before they crack further, but all in all good to go. The drivers side took some finesse and slooow and easy work. Big hands do my no favors work on that side.

Question; the spark plug holes have a little bit of grim/dirt in them. Being my first time ever changing spark plugs, I never thought to look and after the initial cleaning around the boots/coil packs, I didn't think anything about the tubes until AFTER I had pulled the old plugs. Should I wait until next time to use an air compressor to blow out the tubes, or should I get on that right away?

Also, there is a slight sound of what I call coil whine now when the truck is on. I only call it that because it's similar to the sound that computer PSU's and graphics cards make under heavy loads. A very high pitch sound that's hard to notice until you hear it once and then you can hear it juuust outside of your hearing range. I'm wondering if I need to replace the coil packs, or maybe the wires? God forbid if I got some grim into the engine and it's making that sound now. :sobbing:

Thanks again, seriously! Next challenge is an oil change! :D
 
Inate - Glad the instructions were helpful! Now that your plugs are in and properly seated, don't worry about the grime, just blow it out next time you get the chance. It's not going anywhere.

Can you hear the whine better when you stick your head under the hood, or are you only hearing it in the cab? Radio on or off? Do you have an aftermarket radio? Do you have a pet squirrel? (Wait...)

It's possible you need new wires... Take your truck to a dark area, open the hood with the engine running, and look around for arcing from the wires to unnatural places. I'm not sure that would cause the transformer noise but it's still something to check.
 
Appreciate the feed back, I will look into new wires, probably a good idea anyways, the old ones see very weather worn as it was. I tried to buy new wires when I picked up the NRG plugs(dual ground like it calls for), but the parts guy had a little freak out about how odd my truck was so I just moved on. I'll talk to a different store/guy next time.

I was guessing that it may be just cleaner power from the plugs so it compounds other, older issues piling up on me.

I only have the stock radio, but the automatic antennae is "borked" and seems to have been picking up odd sounds more often lately. When the radio is off and I am parked underground(apartment complex), seems to be when I can hear it the best. Just out of reach of my hearing to completely focus on it, but it's there... or I am just going bat-****e! >_>
 
I learned the hard way with using the single "Electrode" spark plugs. I put them in and had a lot of intermittent response issues. I brought it to the dealership and they of course blamed my cold air intake for the response issues. They said it was forcing too much air (Yeah, if they were any slower, theyd be stopped) I brought it to AAA and they said I had single electrode spark plugs and my truck requires "dual" electrode spark plugs. I went out, bought them, installed them, didn't have a single issue since.
 
Really nice writeup! I just wish the pictures were still active.

Thanks for taking the time. I've never changed spark plugs before so naturally I had some questions that needed answering.
 
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Really nice writeup! I just wish the pictures were still active.

Thanks for taking the time. I've never changed spark plugs before so naturally I had some questions that needed answering.

Hmmm... Pictures still seem to be active for me, but then they are my pics.

Can you see them here?
Mobile Photobucket

Steve
 
I have changed many plugs on many different engines over the last 50 yrs but it is always nice to know what it takes to do it on a modern smog engine. Nice writeup.
 
Thank you

I've changed spark plugs before, but accessing them on my 4runner was way more complicated. I appreciate knowing what I can move out of the way. Thank you very much!
 
do I really need to check the gap if I get the duel ground OEM plugs?

Sorry for not monitoring this more closely. OEM plugs should not need gap checked, but if you do be sure to use a wire gauge due to the shape of the electrodes.



robygbh, glad you found the instructions helpful!
 
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I posted this in another Plug thread, but just wanted to share some info I found:

So according to the NGK website, Anti-seize on their lugs actually increases the chances of breaking the plugs during installation. It alters the thread friction and causes a false sense of torque. They have a coating called Trivalent Plating which provides corrosion resistance and a natural anti seize property. So don't put anti seize on these plugs.
 
Just changed my plugs and wires (finally after having the new parts kicking round my garage for 6 months). Excellent write up and very helpful. Just a tidbit, I was able to replace everything while only having to remove the air-intake hose by using a universal joint set and an additional 3" extender w/ my socket wrench. This allowed me to get into the tight spaces along the the driver side of the engine without removing anything. Good call on the 8" grabber tool. Made life easy!

Truck is running so much better!
 
Getting ready to do my plugs but I don't have a feeler gauge. Those of you who have used NGK plugs how was your factory gap out of the box?
 

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