How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

Do folks want this thread as a sticky?

  • Yes

    Votes: 10 62.5%
  • Good thread but the search function works fine, no sticky necessary.

    Votes: 6 37.5%

  • Total voters
    16
  • Poll closed .
no sticky but add thread to STICKY OF FAQ'S FOR 3RD GENS STICKY.....lol

or 3rd gens gerneral tips or somethign to that effect, this list of common mods links to the mods, and the other threads we see 5 of a day here.
 
So there are coil packs only on the passenger side? What is used on the driver side?

Like raydouble sez, it's called a 'waste spark' system, where each coil that sits o a plug on the passenger side is also connected to a plug on the driver side and fires twice as often as normal coils.

Each plug fires twice - once on compression stroke and once on exhaust stroke (which is the one that is wasted). The firing on the exhaust stroke is the same spark signal that fires on the compression stroke on the opposite side, and vice versa.

That is also why "our" plugs have two tips. Because they fire twice as often, they wear out twice as often so need two tips to be serviceable for normal life.

It's amazing how much I learned just by changing the freakin' plugs.
 
Last edited:
im not sure if its only me but the socket likes to fall off the extensions so i put tape around it

That is also a good tip... Sockets falling off inside the plug cylinder would not be fun.

My spark plug socket has an built-in rubber tube inside it that is supposed to grip the spark plug for either insertion or removal, but it is too enlarged to be effective. That's why I had to use the grabber thingy to retrieve my plugs.
 
Just did my plugs and wire yesterday and I thought mine looked bad! I had 60k on them...I guess they should be changed at 30k..lol
 
This diy should include applying anti-seize and also it does not explain what to do with the dielectric compound or if you really need it. Also, you would not need a grabbing tool if you have a plug socket with a rubber grip inside it.
 
Very good write up! Yes I have always changed my own spark plugs and never had a problem but it helps when you have something like this to glance at and see what you can do to make it simpler. The only things I did different that worked for me were: 1) After a bad experience removing the clip on the first coil pack (yes it broke) I decided it wasn't worth removing the rest of them and that way I didn't have to deal with a broken clip and 2) I used a spark plug socket and two long extensions to get to the two back plugs on the drivers side. Again thanks for the informative write up!
 
Very good write-up. I think the last time I changed the plugs myself was on my former 1983 Ford F-150, ....., there was literally enough room in the engine compartment to sit in while you did the work on it. Only thing you had to remove was the wire attached to the end of each plug, then the plug of course. I may try changing them on my 02 runner myself next time - I am getting back in to the do it myself mode here lately with routine maintenance.
 
any suggestions on how to tell if im torquing the plugs down enough, and how much ft/lbs torque i need per plug? doing this tomorrow since my new wires came in, and im still a little new when it comes to under the hood work
 
First post in this thread says:

Use a torque wrench

To answer the first part of your question, to get the proper torque, ie: 13, you will need to invest in a torque wrench - you can spend anywhere from $10 - several hundred. I use the old needle pointer kind which you can get at any auto parts store for around $10-15.
 
To answer the first part of your question, to get the proper torque, ie: 13, you will need to invest in a torque wrench - you can spend anywhere from $10 - several hundred. I use the old needle pointer kind which you can get at any auto parts store for around $10-15.

see if they can calibrate it before you leave the store,just to be sure, you'd be surprised how far off some of these can be, and the last play you want to snap a bolt or strip and hole is in your spark plug hole of your engine block, lol

it should be good, i'm just anal like that about tools and such.:toilet:
 
any suggestions on how to tell if im torquing the plugs down enough, and how much ft/lbs torque i need per plug? doing this tomorrow since my new wires came in, and im still a little new when it comes to under the hood work

Spec is 13 ft-lbs. You can tighten down until you feel the washer crush, then stop. 13 ft-lbs really isn't much.

This diy should include applying anti-seize and also it does not explain what to do with the dielectric compound or if you really need it.

"Apply the anti-seize and dielectric per manufacturer's instructions."

Also, you would not need a grabbing tool if you have a plug socket with a rubber grip inside it.

My plug socket has such a rubber grip inside it but it is aged/stiff/worn and no longer grips the plug. Oh well.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,086
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top