How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

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I have changed my own spark plugs in the past with some of my older cars but this was the first time on my 4Runner so I was happy to find it. The passenger side was a piece of cake however (at the risk of sounding like an idiot) I'm having a hard time with the drivers side. I can't get the socket around the plug on that side. Is there a seal or something in the way? When I look at it with a flashlight it appears there is a black ring above the widest part of the plug that prevents the socket from contacting the nut on the spark plug. Am I crazy?
 
I have changed my own spark plugs in the past with some of my older cars but this was the first time on my 4Runner so I was happy to find it. The passenger side was a piece of cake however (at the risk of sounding like an idiot) I'm having a hard time with the drivers side. I can't get the socket around the plug on that side. Is there a seal or something in the way? When I look at it with a flashlight it appears there is a black ring above the widest part of the plug that prevents the socket from contacting the nut on the spark plug. Am I crazy?

It should not be any different than the others. My WAG: PO's plug wrench (or maybe yours, is it still there?) lost its gripper insert on that plug. Now you'll need a seal puller or grabber tool to get that black thing off.
 
Nice, On Dec 31 i bought the NGK plugs from Advance Auto for $15.xx using a $10 off coupon, then today i got the NGK TE 66 Wires from Advance Auto for $27.xx using another $10 off coupon (PM if you want the coupon), So $42ish for a change ain't bad, the thing is in december i attempted to only change the plugs and a wire snapped as i pulled it out, i did a quick fix to the wire and have had a sort of misfire/hesitation when i shift up too early since then, now i am excited and am hoping this stops it and gives a little more power and mpg's but i doubt it cause i changed the clogged air and fuel filters and got no extra mpg's. :shrug:
 
I am glad I found this web site I have a 02 4runner and I didn't pass my inspection on Friday, it says Cylinders 3, 4, 6 misfire detected... I am hoping that it is the plugs, and wires. I went by the auto-parts store and they checked it out again as well said the same thing. My question is would I need to change the coil on # 3 cylinder or just the plugs. anyone have any idea? I am thankful to zcruiser for making this post. Wish me luck, I am going under the hood, before it gets 100+ today
 
I'm also doing ours today. I ran into a little snag here. The Denso plugs I bought from Rock Auto part number K16TR11, are gapped at about .032. The 4r.org writeup says they will come gapped at .044. I guess I will have to open each one up.

Doing a google I found posts saying the correct gap is .032. Now I'm really confused.
 
Update:

After further analysis I have determined the Denso plugs K16TR11 (the 11 indicates the gap at 1.1 mm =.043) are gapped correctly. The curved inner edge of the ground electrodes necessitate the use of a wire gap tool.
 
Update:

After further analysis I have determined the Denso plugs K16TR11 (the 11 indicates the gap at 1.1 mm =.043) are gapped correctly. The curved inner edge of the ground electrodes necessitate the use of a wire gap tool.

So you were not using a wire gap tool and that's why they measured .032?
 
I am glad I found this web site I have a 02 4runner and I didn't pass my inspection on Friday, it says Cylinders 3, 4, 6 misfire detected... I am hoping that it is the plugs, and wires. I went by the auto-parts store and they checked it out again as well said the same thing. My question is would I need to change the coil on # 3 cylinder or just the plugs. anyone have any idea? I am thankful to zcruiser for making this post. Wish me luck, I am going under the hood, before it gets 100+ today

How many miles on your truck?

I'd start with just the plugs. Wouldn't think you'd need wires on an '02, but there are only 3 of 'em so not hard to change out...
 
So you were not using a wire gap tool and that's why they measured .032?

Correct. The plugs have what's called "U-groove" which means the ground electrodes have a curved surface toward the side radius of the center electrode. Measuring with a flat feeler gauge would give an incorrect reading. You must use a wire gauge and insert it side ways. The spark comes out of the side of the center electrode instead of the top like a standard plug.
 
Correct. The plugs have what's called "U-groove" which means the ground electrodes have a curved surface toward the side radius of the center electrode. Measuring with a flat feeler gauge would give an incorrect reading. You must use a wire gauge and insert it side ways. The spark comes out of the side of the center electrode instead of the top like a standard plug.

Something like this...
 
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120,000 miles on 02
I changed out the plugs and wires, now I have a rough running 4runner(worse than before). Is there any way to tell what plug wire comes off of what coil? I am guessing that my way is not right, I went with the longest wire to the first coil the next longest to the net coil and shortest to the coil closest to the front. Is this correct?
5 - 2 ------------5 - 6
3 - 6 ------------3 - 4
1 - 4 ------------1 - 2
front of motor ( how I have it )
 
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Something like this...
IMG_0789.jpg~original

Exactly. I wonder how many used a flat gauge like I almost did and opened the gaps up to .060 accidentally?
 
120,000 miles on 02
I changed out the plugs and wires, now I have a rough running 4runner(worse than before). Is there any way to tell what plug wire comes off of what coil? I am guessing that my way is not right, I went with the longest wire to the first coil the next longest to the net coil and shortest to the coil closest to the front. Is this correct?
5 - 2 ------------5 - 6
3 - 6 ------------3 - 4
1 - 4 ------------1 - 2
front of motor ( how I have it )

From the FSM (embellished and cleaned up a bit)...



Coil 5 connects to plug 2
Coil 3 connects to plug 6
Coil 1 connects to plug 4
 
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