How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures
- Thread starter yukonrider
- Start date
Nelsonmd
New member
No, just the one on the drivers side.
daMicr0wav3
New member
Hey guys I really need your advice before I spend $690.00 :ak472:
I had my Runner checked over by a good mechanic and he said I need to have my whole steering rack replaced and also had a second opinion at another respectable mechanic. My problem is the same "wobble" as the original video posted. Do I need to change out the whole steering rack to fix this problem?
I've read through the post that the writeup yukonrider did will only fix the problem a little bit, but not 100%. Should I just do what he did or go ahead & get the whole rack replaced. Keep in mind I'll be driving from FLORIDA to MAINE at the end of June.
yukonrider: How is the play in the steering now, after you did this work on it?
Thanks guys :thanks:
I had my Runner checked over by a good mechanic and he said I need to have my whole steering rack replaced and also had a second opinion at another respectable mechanic. My problem is the same "wobble" as the original video posted. Do I need to change out the whole steering rack to fix this problem?
I've read through the post that the writeup yukonrider did will only fix the problem a little bit, but not 100%. Should I just do what he did or go ahead & get the whole rack replaced. Keep in mind I'll be driving from FLORIDA to MAINE at the end of June.
yukonrider: How is the play in the steering now, after you did this work on it?
Thanks guys :thanks:
daMicr0wav3
New member
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
I just replaced my steering rack with that of a used junkyard specimen. Checked for play and such, removed the boots, fine.
I paid $150 for the whole steering rack. I took it home and installed it with a new set of Energy Suspension bushings and new ATF. You just need to keep the steering wheel straight (I tied it to the brake pedal) and install everything the exact same way it came out.
$190 total spent... I should have probably done the guide while I was at it but whatever. I'll do it later.
Or, you could have a knowledgeable mechanic install it for you, which may cost you a lot. I would say 3 or 4 hours for labor for complete swap.
I paid $150 for the whole steering rack. I took it home and installed it with a new set of Energy Suspension bushings and new ATF. You just need to keep the steering wheel straight (I tied it to the brake pedal) and install everything the exact same way it came out.
$190 total spent... I should have probably done the guide while I was at it but whatever. I'll do it later.
Or, you could have a knowledgeable mechanic install it for you, which may cost you a lot. I would say 3 or 4 hours for labor for complete swap.
daMicrowave - did they say why it needs replaced? Is it leaking? Inner tie rods bad? Or is it just because there is some play? If it is just because there is sme play I would definitely try the guide for $50 or so before spending $700! Worse case it doesn't help and you need a new rack and you jst throw the old guide back in and save the new one for your replacement rack later. Or like COB, find a good one at the junk yard... I'm no expert on this but just what i would do before shelling out 700!
daMicr0wav3
New member
Good suggestions. I can get a new refurbished one from a friend at Autozone for $360 or so.
I believe they said it needed to be replaced b/c of the inner tie rods and b/c of the play that was in it...
If the inner tie rods needed to be done what do they usually cost? I would look it up but I've been on the computer way too long & my eyes r gonna bug out. :wow:
I believe they said it needed to be replaced b/c of the inner tie rods and b/c of the play that was in it...
If the inner tie rods needed to be done what do they usually cost? I would look it up but I've been on the computer way too long & my eyes r gonna bug out. :wow:
daMicr0wav3
New member
Gonna order the parts for this, ordered a polyurethane steering rack bushing kit, and also thinking about inner tie rods instead of replacing the whole steering rack.
1: What part of the steering rack leaks & where can I check it to see if it really needs replacing?
2: How hard is it to change tie rods - any special tools needed?
Thanks guys, will be doing this SOON, need just few more q's answered. Thanks!
:nicethread:
1: What part of the steering rack leaks & where can I check it to see if it really needs replacing?
2: How hard is it to change tie rods - any special tools needed?
Thanks guys, will be doing this SOON, need just few more q's answered. Thanks!
:nicethread:
habanero
Senior Member
I needed an outer tie rod end tool to separate the right side when I did ball joints, Autozone free rent-a-tool FTW.
Some reman racks come with inner tie rods. That's the route I'm taking for excessive tie-rod play/clunking + leaking rack. My leak is very obvious, easily seen on both boots.
Some reman racks come with inner tie rods. That's the route I'm taking for excessive tie-rod play/clunking + leaking rack. My leak is very obvious, easily seen on both boots.
Last edited:
sportscarfan
New member
If it's not leaking or creaking, I agree with just trying to take up some slop by adjusting the guide. My '97 has the non-roller. It had some play in it like the video. I took out the guide to inspect - looked good so I just put it back together.
Before dis-assembly, I had made some marks so I knew how tight it was vs. after re-assembly. I probably got the adjustment another 10-15° tighter eliminating the play.
daMicr0wav3
New member
Ok so on the boots of the rack you look for a leak. Got it
steering
Hey all....I seem to have a steering issue as well. I recently purchased a 98 limited with 177,000 miles. i find that when i find myself drifting, i correct left/right and the vehicle wants to keep veering in the corrected direction. It doesnt pull, doesnt shimmy, and it just seems like i have to "help" the wheel back to the straight position, not with strength, just a little nudge. And questions or suggestions please..
Hey all....I seem to have a steering issue as well. I recently purchased a 98 limited with 177,000 miles. i find that when i find myself drifting, i correct left/right and the vehicle wants to keep veering in the corrected direction. It doesnt pull, doesnt shimmy, and it just seems like i have to "help" the wheel back to the straight position, not with strength, just a little nudge. And questions or suggestions please..
Maybe out of alignment?
Get a bolt and 2 nuts. Lock the 2 nuts together on the bolt and it will work. BTW, I think you are supposed to look for a rod coupler.
Gerdo
New member
HD sells rod couplers with the "all thread" (threaded rod). They usually are where the other bolts are sold. Sometimes also sold as parts for "make a bolt".
TN22Corps
New member
Can anyone add to this regarding effectiveness and any negative effects?
I've been reading and re-reading this thread about correcting some front-end vibration and slop. Seems plausible to just tighten the existing guide instead of buying a new one. Or, is it that the new one is better/more effective?
Dumb question alert: If the rack is leaking wouldn't you have to refill the PS fluid reservoir regularly?
habanero
Senior Member
Not a dumb question, it makes sense.
Having to refill the reservoir may mean a leak but it doesn't necessarily mean it's the rack itself that's leaking.
