How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures

Replaced mine today (finally - been sitting on the parts for months!). Not enough driving time to say it's better, but it's certainly no worse. Seemed to get tighter faster than the old one, while threading it in. I backed it out several times to be sure I wasn't cross-threading it. I just tightened until it got harder, then tightened the jam nut.

Tip for getting that jam nut off - Blaster, followed by propane torch! Just keep away from the rubber boot and bushings. I couldn't get that thing to budge (probably had never been moved in 12 years) without both helpers.

Feels good to have this done, but I know a new rack is in my future. Outer TREs and LBJs first, though. Just to be sure!
 
I used some Lithium grease that I had available. The grease is just to hold the spring centered in place so it doesn't fall off while screwing the cap on.
 
When I did mine, I used a q-tip to fish a bunch of the existing grease out from behind the roller on the old style rack guide. There was plenty back there to lube up the new guide and to stick the spring to the back for installation.

I didn't want to risk using the wrong type of grease. Mixing different/incompatible kinds of grease is a BIG no-no.
 
Question/clarification on grease

When I did mine, I used a q-tip to fish a bunch of the existing grease out from behind the roller on the old style rack guide. There was plenty back there to lube up the new guide and to stick the spring to the back for installation.

I didn't want to risk using the wrong type of grease. Mixing different/incompatible kinds of grease is a BIG no-no.


I completed this on my son's '99 last weekend, used all new parts. The question and concern I now have is that I used a bit of lithium multi-purpose grease on the little spindles of the roller that comes in contact with the inner steering rod. I did not use a q-tip or anything to remove any excess. Should I not have applied any grease to that part, any harm? Will that contaminate the power steering (ATF) fluid do you think?
 
I have a leak coming from the guide cap and was about to make sure it is torqued correctly but am now confused. Yukon says 18ft/lb. I can't find that spec. The FSM looks like it's 51ft/lb. What am I missing here?

Also what is a rod connector and where is it used? My guide cap looks the same as Yukon's...requiring only a 24mm socket to tighten the cap down. :confused:

The torque spec in that picture is for the locking ring not the guide cap. You tighten it down to 18 ft/lbs then back it off 19 degrees (roughly 1/4" on the housing. I couldn't tell you why yours is leaking from this mod. There's no fluid in that compartment.

Reference page SR-57 step #11

ry%3D400


ry%3D400


This may help some people better understand how to set the tension. The red arrow is the starting point where you torque it to 18 ft lbs. The yellow arrow is 19 degrees looser. The black paint is just a quick reference to make sure nothing moves over time.
 
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Thanks for the write up. I was having some major wobble while braking down a 10% grade this weekend, also some wobble at 65MPH. I'm having a little trouble finding the parts w/ the part numbers given:
45504-35031,
90501-26074,
45524-37010
90179-48003-
Any help on finding these parts to order? Thanks guys.
 
did this friday. night and day. that old style roller had bit the dust a longgggg time ago. SOLID and feels much safer now.
 
In the first post the OP says the guide bolt can be reused. Well in his list of parts, what exactly is the "guide bolt?" I think I'm confused as to what parts are all involved in the process because there seems to be no guide bolt in any of his pictures.
 
He's talkin about the big nut. Not bolt. Basically a locknut. Spring is the same. Guide end cap and guide are the different parts
 
If you read THIS thread, then you know whats going on here, but if you haven't its a good read, but here is a basic rundown

Inside your steering rack, there is a guide that keeps everything moving the right way, over time it can loosen, and lead to sloppy steering, or a mysterious front end clunk. The original part was a roller on bearings, this was replaced with a sold piece in later model years.

can you better describe this mysterious front end clunk?
 
can you better describe this mysterious front end clunk?

basically it is the steering shaft (drivers side of rack) that is able to pop up and down inside the steering rack tube due to a faulty/old/worn steering rack guide. Why? Because the old design was just not as well thought out as the new....

Its night and day. well work it. and so, SO EASY TO DO.

Also, another good symptom is the inability to align. Forget about adjusting the toe or keeping the vehicle going in a straight line. she will wander uncontrollably.

steeringrack2.jpg~original
 
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thanks for the diagram! I understand what the issue was, but I was more interested in what the clunk sounded and/or felt like in the first place...
 
Hi all, my 4Runner started getting a fair amount of slop, so I'm considering doing this to try to remedy it. It doesn't look like I've got any leaks, so I figure for about $75 and a half-hour time, I can try this as a first stab at correcting the play. However, the Toyota Parts Zone site says that the rack guide isn't compatible with a 98 4Runner. The site mentions it's for the 2000 and newer models. Before I go ahead and order the parts, I want to make sure that everything will work on my rig.

Anyone have 96-98 that has used these parts? Just double checking.

Thanks!
 
That's bs. You can use the new parts. I had the old style and used the new replacement ones. it was night and day. Go for it
 

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