How to: Replacing inner CV boots

robguitargod1

New member
2005 SR5 4.0L

So both my front inner CV boots were torn. This is easily identifiable by the amount of grease covering everything in the vicinity. Some boots tear, some clamps fall off but the result is the same: Moisture and dirt contaminate the joint and the grease in the joint. Over time this will lead to premature wear and ultimately failure if you don't fix it.

Nearly everyone says, "Replace the half-shafts (front axles), it's more cost efficient." Those people are lying. The difference is $50. Doesn't sound like much but I'd rather keep $50 in my pocket and learn a little about my vehicle at the same time.

The cheapest Rock auto front axles are $40.79. A pair shipped is $110.02 with the 5% discount. Replacing the boots costs $60 and that's with the boot clamp tensioning tool included.

More Information for APWI TO8342
TO8342__ra_p.jpg


The inner boots are $11.38. A pair shipped is $27.65 with the 5% discount. Part number 1032957

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1378672&cc=1431016&jnid=522&jpid=1

BA1032957-1__ra_p.jpg


Tools you'll need:

CV boot band/strap/clamp tool. There are 2 kinds. Mine required the less common tension tool. THIS TOOL CAN NOT BE RENTED. IT MUST BE PURCHASED! I used NAPA part number 3191:

51DCxNjTo8L._SX522_.jpg


Here's how to use it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxqsKbXrYyY

This is a combination tension tool and cutter in one. The other variation of this too does not have the cutter attached but works equally well. You just have to cut the excess band yourself after you tighten it. Looks like this:

$_35.JPG


36mm socket. I rented a set of 4 different sized from Advance. Any auto parts stores has them

648991-9-pc-deluxe-axle-nut-socket-kit-kit-61.jpg

Now to the repair. First remove the wheel and start removing the caliper:



Remove the caliper with these 2 bolts:



DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE ASB SENSOR WIRE!!! SUSPEND IT FROM SOME ROPE OR A BUNGEE CORD:



Unplug the ABS sensor and tape it over to keep dirt out:



Remove the center dust cover and remove the axle nut with the 36mm socket you've rented.



To remove that nut just put the tire on the ground and break it loose with a 1/2" breaker bar and extension pipe. It's not very difficult but your impact might not be able to break it loose.

Use a mini sledge hammer to tap the axle out of the hub:



Remember to use a pan to catch the gear oil that will leak out. You'll replace it later.

Remove the 2 19mm bolts on both sides of the ball joint in order to move the whole knuckle out of the way:



Now use a long screw driver or pry bar and the mini sledge to drive the axle out of the front diff. It'll take a few good blows but it'll come out.

Now you have the axle out:




And that was the end of the night for me. Unfortunately I fell out of the vehicle forgetting it was 2' off the ground. Broke my nose and spent the night in the ER.





Point is, pay attention.

Next day. Now cut the bands and boot off and you'll see why this needed to be fixed:



Lots of water contamination. The grease should be very thick, not runny.

Next pull the cup off and inspect the rollers:



Clean the grease up so you can find and remove the snap ring that's holding them onto the shaft:



Now tap the roller off. Here's what they look like sitting inside the cup:



Clean all of the old grease. Now instal the new CV boot:

 
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And reinstall the rollers and retaining clip:



Now use the supplied new grease on the rollers and inside the cup:





Now slide the cup over the rollers and pull the boot onto it. Install the straps/clamps with the tool you purchased as in the video posted in the beginning of this thread. The repair is done.



Now would be a good time to clean up the mess that the boot tear caused. You'll need lots of rags and degreaser but now is the time to do it.

Now just reinstall in the reverse order and you're done.

Now would also be a good time to top off the gear oil that you lost when removing the axles. The fill plug is here:



No more torn boots:




I'll review and update this as needed. I hope this will help some of you will tackle this job. And remember not to fall and break your nose.
 
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nice diy... I had the same leaking boot and found water inside it, but the issue I have was a loose smaller clamp for the inner boot. I was able to squeeze out the water. I know there might be more water in it and since during that time, I don't have the time to replace the boot and disassemble those things. I ended up, regreasing the boot and reclamping it. so far, there's no more grease coming out after replacing the clamp.

I should have done the same way you did if the cv boot is torn. so far, I like replacing the cv boot than replacing the whole cv axle.

Any reason why you did not replace both boot at the same time? It will save you time in the future. I've done it on my wife's car, replaced only one cv boot and a couple of months later, the other boot started leaking. so I ended up disassembling it again and learned my lesson to do both if I ever do that again. :) hehe.

thanks for the diy, that helped a lot. I have not done it on my 4runner yet.
 
I rarely see inner boots fail probably because they don't move laterally. Didn't want to fix something that wasn't broken, but I agree with what you're saying.

I'd much rather keep the OEM axles since I'm sure they're superior to a $40 replacement. Will that ever make a difference for a daily driver, no.

Here's a good video on the topic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0
 
Just did this the other day, rebooted inner and outter on both sides. You only need to take off the axle nut, tie rod and two bolts next to the lower ball joint. everything else swings easily out of the way. Snap rings kinda suck but with a pick and a small screw driver they popped off.. Snap pliers didnt work much better. Also did a complete fluid change of the front diff, cuz why not.
 

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Great writeup. This job is particularly messy, so the pics are great. The only thing I might recommend for folks is to replace the diff seals while you're in there. Would hate to tear one slightly taking the the axle in or out and have to do it again.
 
Great writeup. This job is particularly messy, so the pics are great. The only thing I might recommend for folks is to replace the diff seals while you're in there. Would hate to tear one slightly taking the the axle in or out and have to do it again.

Mine weren't leaking or I would have. Has anyone replaced the front wheel bearing seals? Just curious.
 
Got the rotors resurfaced today. Hardly anyone does it these days but I finally found a shop that charged me $8 each cash. No more brake wobble.

The cheapest rotor at Rock auto is $13.......wow that's cheap. But even a pair of those shipped is $40. The cheapest pair at advance is $60+
 
Great writeup. This job is particularly messy, so the pics are great. The only thing I might recommend for folks is to replace the diff seals while you're in there. Would hate to tear one slightly taking the the axle in or out and have to do it again.

Not a bad thing to do, however if the seal isnt leaking to begin with, then its not worth replacing until it does. They usually get damaged when putting the cv back in an the axle contacts the deal trying to line it up, causing a tear or a dent. If you have help (recommended for this part) have someone gently and carefully guide the cv back into place without contacting the seal and you should be good to go. You can just as easily damage the new one.
 
Just putting my experience in. While I did this, I removed the clamp on the inner sides of the axle and left the part of the axle in the diff. I had no leaking issues, just a torn boot. This way I could just grease up everything, put the boot on and slide the two axle pieces back together.

Thanks for the write up.
 
Nicely done, the write up and photos is excellent...the nose photo and knife and blood in the sink priceless! You should caption the knife in the sink photo, "my wife decided it was quitting time".

Weight of the shaft from almost 2 foot high, to the head, could have been worse.

I hate when I do bonehead things like you did here, but in a strange way it is comforting to know I am not the only one who does dumb things like this.

Thanks for the great photos and write up, glad you are basically ok, heal well and fast.
 
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great write-up! Hey, just to let you know, the link you listed for the boot is actually the outer boot. The inner boot is part number 1032957.
 
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Just did this the other day, rebooted inner and outter on both sides. You only need to take off the axle nut, tie rod and two bolts next to the lower ball joint. everything else swings easily out of the way. Snap rings kinda suck but with a pick and a small screw driver they popped off.. Snap pliers didnt work much better. Also did a complete fluid change of the front diff, cuz why not.

What size are the hose clamps you used? I have to complete this job soon!
 

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