Control valve on the carb? Not sure what you're talking about, I'm guessing we call that something different here in the States.
If you just mean you're turning the key and not hearing the relay click, then it's probably a dead battery. If the battery checks out, leave the key on and jumper the + stud straight to the spade terminal on the starter. If that starts the truck, then you've got trouble in the ignition (or starter relay, depending on year). There's a couple writeups on how to fix that in the stickies of the Classics section.
I am rebuilding the carby. I got the term from the manual. It is called the outer vent control valve. There are 3 thing wired on the carby CHOKE BREAKER, CUT OF SOLINOID AND CONTROL VALVE in the manual it says when testing to connect it to the battery and if it doesn't click to replace it. I just wanted to know if I had to cut the wire to connect to the battery to test it or can I just turn the key and see if I can hear it.
You're talking about the fuel cut solenoid.
That's the small cylinder on the side of the carb.
if I remember correctly you should be able to hear it click (if you have your ear close to it, it's not very loud) just by turning the key to ON. But I don't have a schematic handy to be sure. I do know that +12V to it is constant and it is switched on/off by the Emissions ECM supplying a ground to it.
Na not solinoid cut off its on the same side but one the top part of the carby..........solinoid cut off works fine this vent valve thingie goes into a cannister appartently can make car backfire if not working correctly which has been happening to the car when coasting down steep hills
OK, I'm guessing the vid isn't yours, as that one works.
You don't have to cut any wires to test it, all the carb wiring (choke, fuel cut sol, etc) go thru one connector.
Just dis-connect it and trace the wires back to that part, and connect your power source to test it.