I found the key to unlocking your 3rd Gens mileage
- Thread starter Schargedtaco
- Start date
Skidmarcx
New member
I have to LOL at this statement... please explain
Limbwalker
New member
Dude, theres no way you are getting an average of 22. My 06 Taco with 6 miles on it brand new didnt get that much. My 3rd gen 4R with 33s has had Lucas fuel treatments many times with tune ups and all other service to boot, and it gets about 18 hwy on a good day. Not trying to be a jerk, I just think something is weird with your calculations/and/or the weird added fuel thing which I dont entirely understand to be possible or beneficial
smkd13
New member
It was just my experience with my jeep that I had manual called for unleaded. Ran 85 most of the time I had it. Had a long 1900 mile cross country trip so I tried two tanks of 87 and two of 91 and get better mileage with 91. With my runner when I run 87 I average 16-17. With 91 I average 18-19. Not saying it is a sure fire way to do it but it just works for me and personal experience.
Nor am I stating it as a fact or something people should adhere to.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Showoff...
DeadMoney44
New member
Easy way to check your math and know for sure.
Reset your trip odometer or take an odometer reading right after you fill to a repeatable level. Whatever level you choose. Throw this gas receipt away.
Save gas receipts for a period of time. Let's say a month. The amount of gas you put in your tank at each fill is up to you, but save the receipts.
DO NOT reset your trip odometer.
At the end of the month fill your tank to whatever level you did on that first fill. This is the final receipt you need.
Take the reading from your trip odometer. Add up the total number of gallons of gas that you have put into the tank during the test period including that last fill up.
Trip odometer reading / divided by total gallons purchased = equals MPG
The keys to an accurate result:
Zero out trip odometer at the begining
Discard that initial fill receipt
That initial fill level must be duplicated with the last fill
The last fill receipt is counted in the total
This long term method will confirm or refute your short term results. An adjustment in test procedure helps a tester find a mistake that keeps getting repeated when using the same procedure.
Reset your trip odometer or take an odometer reading right after you fill to a repeatable level. Whatever level you choose. Throw this gas receipt away.
Save gas receipts for a period of time. Let's say a month. The amount of gas you put in your tank at each fill is up to you, but save the receipts.
DO NOT reset your trip odometer.
At the end of the month fill your tank to whatever level you did on that first fill. This is the final receipt you need.
Take the reading from your trip odometer. Add up the total number of gallons of gas that you have put into the tank during the test period including that last fill up.
Trip odometer reading / divided by total gallons purchased = equals MPG
The keys to an accurate result:
Zero out trip odometer at the begining
Discard that initial fill receipt
That initial fill level must be duplicated with the last fill
The last fill receipt is counted in the total
This long term method will confirm or refute your short term results. An adjustment in test procedure helps a tester find a mistake that keeps getting repeated when using the same procedure.
hearno
Senior Member
I think this is where OP is getting thrown off. His posts make it difficult to understand exactly what he's saying but I'd guess it has to do with variances in pump cutoffs. I've had a pump stop the flow after 3 gallons, that doesn't mean my tank was full. I know it wasn't because my light had been on. Whatever the nozzle uses to automatically stop the flow can be triggered more easily on one pump than another. Just because the pump shut off, doesn't mean the tank is full and adding a few gallons after that won't necessarily guarantee the same amount of fuel pumped in every time. You need to find a better way of monitoring how many gallons are going in and then dividing your mileage.
fightman80
New member
What happened to him?? I noticed he was banned?? Do we have a thread on here which leads to his banning?
fightman80
New member
wow... that escalated quickly... :/
Skidmarcx
New member
The octane rating basically refers to the resistance to knock... Seen in higher compression and boosted applications. In our factory engines it does absolutely nothing over 87 octane...
War Sprout
New member
265/75r16 tires are (I think) 3% larger than stock. So you would have to multiply whatever you drove on the odometer by (1.03). THEN, divide by the number of gallons it took to drive that far.
I just unlocked EVEN MORE mileage for you.
I just unlocked EVEN MORE mileage for you.
Brian757
New member
I will only implement some of my .02 cents and personal experiences. I used to fill my tank up to the click and then round up to the next $5. And whether it be related or not, I need to replace my charcoal canister now. It chatters like a whores teeth in church. And they dont sell individual parts of the canister, and its pricey. I asked what the problem was that caused the ticking, and discovered that it was in fact my charcoal filter.
Many others stated that they have a loud ticking charcoal canister as well but just let it go, because its so pricey. There are plenty of people who have a problem with overfilling. I mean, who wants to hit the gas pump multiple times a week.
Nunyabiz
New member
Well going by this thread I guess I got pretty darn good mileage on my long cross country trip a few months ago.
Considering I was hauling I figure at least 800# in the back plus my wife and I and a 12# Chihuahua I still managed to get an average of 19.83mpg over 7770 miles and 391.66 gallons of gas burned.
I filled up exactly the same each time, fast as the pump would go until I got to where I felt I was within a few gallons of full, then cut it back to about 1/2 until I got the first click, then about 1/2 or less to the 2nd click and that was my mark. I think you get a more accurate measure when you slow down the fill rate a bit as some gas stations the gas is flying out of the pump and it seems to click really early.
I did manage on ONE tank to get 21.47mpg from Bend towards Yellowstone which was very flat and slightly downhill in spots. The 800# might have even helped my mileage on this tank just from momentum.
I think 2-3 other tanks I got just over 20mpg with the majority being between 18-19mpg.
I used 2 bottles of the Amsoil PI fuel additive, one just before I left and one after about 4000 miles, not that I think that made any real difference I just put it in there to keep injectors clean.
Though I never found out for certain what my "check engine" light was about I came to the conclusion that it was most likely caused by a dirty brake sensor that I probably got while in Oklahoma driving though mud holes.
My best guess anyway as it has never come back.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143963-back-7-770-mile-trip.html
As far as I can tell I am still only getting about 13mpg 100% city in Raleigh NC, even though I am getting slightly better Highway mileage than I used to before changing the intake and the muffler, it appears as though that only made a real difference in just highway mileage.
Maybe because of constantly getting more freer flow of air IN and OUT at highway speeds?
The OP made my brain hurt.
Considering I was hauling I figure at least 800# in the back plus my wife and I and a 12# Chihuahua I still managed to get an average of 19.83mpg over 7770 miles and 391.66 gallons of gas burned.
I filled up exactly the same each time, fast as the pump would go until I got to where I felt I was within a few gallons of full, then cut it back to about 1/2 until I got the first click, then about 1/2 or less to the 2nd click and that was my mark. I think you get a more accurate measure when you slow down the fill rate a bit as some gas stations the gas is flying out of the pump and it seems to click really early.
I did manage on ONE tank to get 21.47mpg from Bend towards Yellowstone which was very flat and slightly downhill in spots. The 800# might have even helped my mileage on this tank just from momentum.
I think 2-3 other tanks I got just over 20mpg with the majority being between 18-19mpg.
I used 2 bottles of the Amsoil PI fuel additive, one just before I left and one after about 4000 miles, not that I think that made any real difference I just put it in there to keep injectors clean.
Though I never found out for certain what my "check engine" light was about I came to the conclusion that it was most likely caused by a dirty brake sensor that I probably got while in Oklahoma driving though mud holes.
My best guess anyway as it has never come back.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143963-back-7-770-mile-trip.html
As far as I can tell I am still only getting about 13mpg 100% city in Raleigh NC, even though I am getting slightly better Highway mileage than I used to before changing the intake and the muffler, it appears as though that only made a real difference in just highway mileage.
Maybe because of constantly getting more freer flow of air IN and OUT at highway speeds?
The OP made my brain hurt.
BamaDrewski
New member
I have found that when I disconnect my battery for maintenance, the mileage I get thereafter is much better. I guess the computer "re-learns" my driving habits. Also, I always drive in the ECT mode which ironically, gives me better mileage than not driving with it on. I also add about 6 ounces of MMO to my gas at every fill up. I have been doing this for about 2 years now and on the highway, I average about 22-23 miles per gallon. This is on a truck with almost 230K miles with the original injectors, fuel pump, etc.
