sschaefer3
New member
10 bucks gets you 2 new bushings and 2 new sleeves. Brand new bar again.
I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
BigFishAllDay
New member
This march! Round two! And I could have done maintenance. But I got distracted by shiny blue coilovers and a whitson... Besides I might aswell wait to get a safari rack till after moab when I'm crawling the mall
Speaking of maintenance. I'm getting ready to replace the lower panhard bushing on my SS bar. I've got about a 1/4" movement in the lower end of it. How is yours holding up? From my talks with Steve it seems soon. Go figure
My mistake! I should have known better. :crazy: You should send me a PM when you've got your dates figured out. I have some time off in March and I might be able to get up there for a few days.
I haven't noticed any movement in the panhard bushings on my rig, but I'll take a look next time I'm under there just in case.
Steve, you like my thread, don't you? Just admit it.
....................................
On another note... some more changes are on the way....
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EatonKyleH
New member
Fort Collins!?:wtf:
How'd you get that shipping info on those sexy Valentines undies I sent you!?
It was supposed to be a surprise!
oh well..... Enjoy them.
Nick. I'll also be headed out to Moab with Tyler and some other Fort Collins dudes. March 14-17th. Would be killer to see ya there.
sschaefer3
New member
Your thread is fine, you still need a crawler and a front locker if you don't have one. That will do the most for you. I don't spend much time on the boards.
Dirtco
New member
Seems a little heavy, I have a feeling there is a case of jumbo Otter-Pops in there as well!
sschaefer3
New member
The bushings wearing out depends on where you live. It all has to do with snow.
If you live in San Diego, Orange County, Las Vegas, Phoenix, etc. The desert. They are not going to wear out. Also down south, Carolina's, Georgia, Alabama, Texas, etc. They are not going to wear out.
Seattle and Oregon, maybe but probably not.
What happens in New England, The Midwest and for some reason Colorado, is that the crap they put on the roads, gets in between the sleeve and the busing and literally sands the two down. Greasing the sleeves every fall before the snow comes is a good idea, it only takes a few minutes to do this and the tires can stay on.
Albq does not get enough snow it melts right away and is considered the high desert. It's not going to happen there.
If you live in San Diego, Orange County, Las Vegas, Phoenix, etc. The desert. They are not going to wear out. Also down south, Carolina's, Georgia, Alabama, Texas, etc. They are not going to wear out.
Seattle and Oregon, maybe but probably not.
What happens in New England, The Midwest and for some reason Colorado, is that the crap they put on the roads, gets in between the sleeve and the busing and literally sands the two down. Greasing the sleeves every fall before the snow comes is a good idea, it only takes a few minutes to do this and the tires can stay on.
Albq does not get enough snow it melts right away and is considered the high desert. It's not going to happen there.
EatonKyleH
New member
Can't keep a darn secret to save my life around here!!!!!!!
BigFishAllDay
New member
THIS IS GOING TO BE THE BEST VALENTINES DAY EVER!!! :kiss:
Although, I thought the package was going to contain a special Valentines Day gift from [MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION]. Some chocolate and a copy of "The Notebook", maybe. I'll still enjoy the undies, though. Hopefully they're edible.
BTW, PM inbound RE Moab.
Agreed.
ABQ is a black hole when it comes to snow. A storm will roll through NM and everybody gets a good couple of inches, except ABQ. We get cold rain and frost in the morning.
TCMach
New member
Wait you wanted a sweet gift? You may want to ignore the fuzzy handcuffs and bootleg copy of 50 shades of gray then...:whipping2
SCRunner12
New member
Did you ever replace the bolts on your body lift and washers on your rag joint? Just wondering what size and length worked best as I'm hoping to install my BL soon. I tried searching through your build, but no luck. Thanks!
BigFishAllDay
New member
Yeah, I did. I replaced all the body mount bolts with longer hardware at the time of install. As far as the rag joint goes, I cut a spacer out of 1/4" steel with slots that capture the studs on the rag joint. I've really slacked off with regard to including the amount of detail in this thread that I have in the past.
I took a picture of the bags for the hardware that shows the size/length that is needed for all five body mounts, and a couple pictures of the rag joint spacer. I'll dig them up and post them and hit you with a notification.
BigFishAllDay
New member
My XRC-8 winch has always been VERY difficult to free-spool. The process is so difficult that when it's cold I will tire myself out before I can pull all of the line off the drum for a long pull. I usually have to have one foot on the bumper and lean back, pulling with both arms to get the inner wraps of line off the drum, so as a result, I just power the line out. Well, that of course creates heat in the drum, which is bad for synthetic line.
The problem is well documented, and the cause of the difficult free spool is the sticky tar-like grease that Smittybilt packs the gearbox with at the factory. The solution is to disassemble, clean, and re-pack the gearbox with better grease. So, I did that yesterday.
I was going to take a bunch of pictures of how the gearbox fits together, but it's been done before, so I'll just post the link that I used during re-assembly to make sure that things were going back where they belonged:
Smittybilt Winch Gear Assembly - Free spool problem / fix
Getting started...
Spent a lot of time scrubbing things in here...
Which got me to this point... fully cleaned and disassembled...
Then I smeared this stuff in all the right places.... Check the label, that's right..."The best grease money can buy!"
Synthetic, green (my favorite color), sticky but light, -20 to 500 degrees operating range. Bonus feature: it looks like pistachio pudding, which is delicious.
And now my winch free spools MUCH easier. I could actually pull the line off with one hand after I got it put back together. I didn't take any pictures of the process of adding the new grease because it was a 15 on a scale of 1-10 for being messy. I had it up my nose, in my hair, and on the dogs. Trust me, there's new grease in there.
Also, I finally found a friend for the lonely guy in the left bucket. The friend needs a little bit of work, and then they can play together. Time to call ECGS.
The problem is well documented, and the cause of the difficult free spool is the sticky tar-like grease that Smittybilt packs the gearbox with at the factory. The solution is to disassemble, clean, and re-pack the gearbox with better grease. So, I did that yesterday.
I was going to take a bunch of pictures of how the gearbox fits together, but it's been done before, so I'll just post the link that I used during re-assembly to make sure that things were going back where they belonged:
Smittybilt Winch Gear Assembly - Free spool problem / fix
Getting started...
Spent a lot of time scrubbing things in here...
Which got me to this point... fully cleaned and disassembled...
Then I smeared this stuff in all the right places.... Check the label, that's right..."The best grease money can buy!"
Synthetic, green (my favorite color), sticky but light, -20 to 500 degrees operating range. Bonus feature: it looks like pistachio pudding, which is delicious.
And now my winch free spools MUCH easier. I could actually pull the line off with one hand after I got it put back together. I didn't take any pictures of the process of adding the new grease because it was a 15 on a scale of 1-10 for being messy. I had it up my nose, in my hair, and on the dogs. Trust me, there's new grease in there.
Also, I finally found a friend for the lonely guy in the left bucket. The friend needs a little bit of work, and then they can play together. Time to call ECGS.
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AZ_Trails
New member
Your rig is going to be awesome with the new bumper! Mine hasn't let me down yet. How long have you been waiting for it? I finally got mine 18 weeks from the time I ordered it, even though I was quoted 8-10 weeks...
BigFishAllDay
New member
I think it's going to look sharp once it's all ready to go. The new look will take some getting used to after running the ARB for so long, so it probably won't feel like "my" rig at first.
I ordered mine on Black Friday (11/28/14), and it arrived on 2/17/15, so a little more than 11 weeks. I came in behind the group buy, so that had a big effect on the turn time. I wasn't in a big hurry though, so I ordered it and forgot about it... next thing I knew, it was ready to ship.
I thought long and hard about putting the ARB on the '97, but I've decided that I'm going to try and sell it instead. I don't want to go down this same path with the '97. It works well as is, and I'm happy with it's current state. This building business is a slippery slope.
[MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] :
To answer your question about the body lift, there are 5 bolts per side on the later 3rd gens...
In stock form, they have this much thread showing (from front to back)...
Keeping in mind that the nut in the pictures is slightly less than 1/2" tall, you can tell that every bolt has less than a 1/2" of remaining threads available. Once you add the 1/2" body lift pucks, some of the bolts don't have enough remaining threads to completely engage the threads on the nut. To me, this was a problem, so I got longer bolts.
Per side, you will need:
1 - 3/8"x16 x 6" Grade 8 SAE bolt
2 - 3/8"x16 x 5" Grade 8 SAE bolt
2 - M10x1.25 x 100mm Grade 10.9 Metric bolt
Plus the associated lock nuts and washers. I had to go with a mix of SAE and Metric hardware in order to get the right quantity of bolts in the right length. It's hard to find the longer 6" stuff in Metric at Lowe's/Home Depot, etc. but you could probably order it online easily. All the stock bolts are M10x1.25, and SAE Grade 8 is roughly equivalent to Metric 10.9.
With the new bolts AND the body lift pucks in place, you end up with this (from front to back)...
All the bolts now have as much, or greater, than the amount of remaining thread that the stock bolts had without the lift pucks. I used double nuts, with a lock nut, on the bolts that had the least amount of remaining thread. I also reversed the lock nuts so the locking threads would grab onto more of the bolt. The rear bolts did not get a second nut because of the excess amount of thread showing through the first nut, and the mounts ahead of the front doors didn't have enough remaining thread to install a second nut, so I left them with a single as well. The bolts for the front body mount were a little too long and the nuts would bottom out on the threads before cinching up tight, so I added a few washers to adjust the position of the nut on the bolt and ensure I could achieve the proper torque.
This is the rag joint spacer that I came up with...
It locks together the posts of the rag joint so that it still has a little play, but only a couple MM or so, just like the stock setup. With this in place, the joint will perform as intended. Also, notice that the rubber sections of the rag joint are now sitting perfectly flat, and are not being pulled on, just like a stock setup.
So that's it man, I hope that helps.
sschaefer3
New member
You need to take out that generic bolt on the steering shaft coupler and get the correct bolt from the Toyota Dealer. It is a special bolt with a splined area below the head and a Toyota grade 11. Which is the hardest material bolt they make. The rest don't matter but the steering shaft coupler bolts are special.
They are not like any other bolt on the truck.
LittleCaesar
New member
Nice job BFAD. Can't wait to see the bumper on. No help from the little one?
Having used the Green Grease, it works well until it sees water, then it can wash out quickly. Try and find this stuff, it works much better, even works in fishing reels:
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Sy...UTF8&qid=1426699736&sr=8-1&keywords=Superlube
Having used the Green Grease, it works well until it sees water, then it can wash out quickly. Try and find this stuff, it works much better, even works in fishing reels:
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Sy...UTF8&qid=1426699736&sr=8-1&keywords=Superlube
BigFishAllDay
New member
Steve, thanks for checking in. I wanted to re-use the factory bolt in that spot, but it wasn't long enough. Do you have any recommendations (i.e. a part number, or a certain application) on how to find a bolt of similar quality in a longer length? I'll have to take a look at the stock bolts, but I don't remember them being splined, either.
Also, do most body lift kits not include replacement hardware for that bolt? Take for example Roger Brown's site (4Crawler - 4Crawler Offroad - Custom Body Lift Kits and Body Lift Installation Instructions). He's showing the use of aftermarket (generic) bolts for his steering extension kits. As does Toytec: Body Lift for 96-02 4-Runner
Thanks, LC. She was out there playing with my tools and spreading them all over the garage, and she actually wanted to eat some of the grease ("Daddy, is that gum?"), but she wasn't much help on this one.
The grease that you linked does look like good stuff... great reviews, and the specs look right. I'll check it out for next time... that is, IF there is a next time. Re-greasing a winch is not a job I look forward to ever doing again.
BrianSD_42
New member
Are you glad you went with the BL?
I've been quite happy with my 1" BL combination with the same Sonoran Steel kit and 285s. I also replaced all the body mounts with poly but I doubt this is necessary for everyone and few seem to have done it.
I've been quite happy with my 1" BL combination with the same Sonoran Steel kit and 285s. I also replaced all the body mounts with poly but I doubt this is necessary for everyone and few seem to have done it.
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sschaefer3
New member
The longer bolts you used for your spacer are fine. It is the one at the top of the picture in the coupler I am talking about.
The bolt that clamps the coupler tight. Very top of that picture.
The bolt that clamps the coupler tight. Very top of that picture.
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