Like the clocking of the winch, maybe noone cares, but I'm also using this thread as my personal log of all that I've done, and I've done a bit more, so it's time for an update.
I got the IPF's prewired. One important note about the IPF968's is this... I attempted to bypass the switch that IPF includes in their wiring harness, figuring that I'd never need/want the ability to turn the lights off independent of the high beams. First I tested the function of the switch. There are 3 wires coming off the switch, one gets tapped into the high beam wire and is the "IN" to the switch, the other two are "OUT" of the switch, feeding the relay. I took a multimeter and measured the voltage coming off both the "OUTS" when the "IN" had power. One was showing 9.7V, the other was showing 11.7V. I thought it was strange that there was a difference, but figured what the heck.. I made a harness to bypass the switch that split the feed wire from the high beam tap into two wires to feed the relay (effectively showing the relay 11.7V at both inputs). When I hooked it up this way it blew the fuse in the high beam tap wire... I put a bigger fuse in there and it blew the fuse in my fuse box. I decided this must be wrong so I went back and wired in the switch and everything worked fine. I'm not sure exactly what purpose that voltage differential serves going into the relay, but it DOES HAVE A PURPOSE. If you get these, wire them in WITH THE SWITCH.
The wiring setup, prior to adding in the switch...
The 12V+ feed off the battery, routed under the fuse box and up along the fusible link...
And the +/- feeds to the individual lights and the grounding location I used. I took a sanding wheel and took it down to bare metal under the bolt head, then put the ground on, torqued it, and put touch up paint over it to prevent rust.
The last shot here is the ends of the wires feeding the lights themselves, temporarily zip tied to some A/C lines while I'm awaiting the bumper install. (One benefit of wiring in the switch is you can cut the voltage to these ends by turning the switch OFF, so they dont ground out and blow fuses)
I also got the winch/fairlead finished up in the bumper, using longer grade 8.8 metric hardware to bolt it up. I bolted the lights up too, and got the blinker lenses mounted and ready to wire up. Here's the new front end, all ready to go on... Just have to take the old bumper off, do the endcap mod welds, and bolt this baby up. I'm going to wait to put the bumper on before I wire up the winch control box so I can get accurate meaurements on how much I need to extend the wires.
I also got some Highland Contura Splashguards, model 11051... (See Speedy's "Project Sportrunner" website, he was the original to write this up, and on t4R.org, Hepar and Four Flusher are also running these). Amazon.com had 'em for $18. These will go on soon to minimize the frequency of touch ups on the sliders due to rock chips, and to prevent chips to the paint on the rocker panels.
I'm tired of stuffing my maglight in random spots...so I'm gonna find a spot to mount these...
Also, my rig is running a functional hood scoop, but I'm not sure if I like it because alot of dust and dirt comes in through the scoop, not to mention rain and snow. I picked up this part....
And found that it provides an effective method of blocking the scoop, and can be easily removed should I want to run with it open.
Finally, I have to ask.... Is it strange that sometimes, before I walk into the house from the garage, I turn and look at my 'Runner and think... "Damn, you're sexy!"???
imp:
