I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
rideexileex
Senior Member
Big update!
Bummer about the ECU though. I would say also really inspect those diodes - during a short circuit situation, that rush of current has to find a ground, and diodes tend to blow out. They can be tough to spot too and sometimes can only be figured out by lifting pins and then measuring the bias voltages.
Bummer about the ECU though. I would say also really inspect those diodes - during a short circuit situation, that rush of current has to find a ground, and diodes tend to blow out. They can be tough to spot too and sometimes can only be figured out by lifting pins and then measuring the bias voltages.
BigFishAllDay
New member
The solenoid for the winch operates the same way a relay does. There are 3 wires that feed off the solenoid into the winch remote control. Those 3 wires go to the switch on the remote. One wire is a common ground, the next is a power wire to activate the winch spool in, the other is a power wire to activate the winch spool out. When you hit the switch on the remote it connects either/or to ground, activating the winch. There is an LED wired in line with the ground wire so that it lights up when power is feeding through the ground wire, indicating winch operation.
The power mirror switch simply takes the place of the switch on the remote, controlling the same functions @ the solenoid.
RE the valve body, I actually pulled the one in the pictures from that '02 @ U-Pull-It. I've always wanted to have a spare, just in case. The VB's are a $750 part from Toyota and they're almost impossible to find on the used market. Not to mention the '01-02 VB's are different from earlier models. All that considered, I had to jump on this one. I'll have it re-worked and keep the stock VB out of my truck in case I ever need to return to stock or have issues w/the new one.
RE the 70264, I picked it up for $40, so the first reason was that it was cheap. It's got more cooling capacity than the TRD cooler, so I figured I can either replace the TRD cooler, go in line along WITH the TRD cooler, or I could use it on my Wife's '00. The reason I want to try two coolers in line is because my radiator is in great shape, and if the two coolers work out that will save me $125 on a new radiator. Also, the only time my temps got really high was climbing those steep grades at 11K+ feet in CO last year. That's an abusive environment, though, and in normal use my temps are great. I think the extra cooler will provide that extra bit of cooling capacity that I need. Finally the IPT VB upgrade increases the line pressure (and thereby flow rate through the coolers), which will also drop the temps.
Definitely! Send me a PM and I'll be happy to get you set up.
Yeah, it was DOH!!! moment. Thanks for the tip on the diodes. This will be my first time attempting a repair on a circuit board, so that will help. Like I said though, everything seems to function normally as far as locking/unlocking, the locked indicator light, and the blinking when locking/unlocking, it's just the bulb in the switch that won't light up. I'm pretty sure the fried resistor has just upped the resistance on the circuit. The LED still lights because it can operate on less current, but the increased resistance is blocking enough current from the circuit that there is not enough to light the bulb. I'll swap in a new resistor and go from there, but I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that those diodes are OK.
rideexileex
Senior Member
Well keep me posted! Hopefully it is just that resistor, but if it gets crazy, send it to me and I'll see what I can do for you!
LittleCaesar
New member
Very nice BFAD. The first time I removed a valve body from a tranny I was thinking to myself that if I lose one piece, I am up the creek without a paddle. But it was for a Ford, so used ones were readily available at a price.
The 70264 is a great cooler, and not just because I run one. Mine partially begins to open at 170 and fully opens by 181. I have though about adding a SPAL puller fan to mine, but really have never found it necessary for my operations. One or two guys on YT used them and found them to work rather well. I think the diameter was 6.5 in. Are you still using the original fan clutch?
I thought for a moment my switch had FUBARed on ya.
No pics of the little helper?
The 70264 is a great cooler, and not just because I run one. Mine partially begins to open at 170 and fully opens by 181. I have though about adding a SPAL puller fan to mine, but really have never found it necessary for my operations. One or two guys on YT used them and found them to work rather well. I think the diameter was 6.5 in. Are you still using the original fan clutch?
I thought for a moment my switch had FUBARed on ya.
No pics of the little helper?
poleclimber63
Member
board repair
RE the 70264, I picked it up for $40, so the first reason was that it was cheap. It's got more cooling capacity than the TRD cooler, so I figured I can either replace the TRD cooler, go in line along WITH the TRD cooler, or I could use it on my Wife's '00. The reason I want to try two coolers in line is because my radiator is in great shape, and if the two coolers work out that will save me $125 on a new radiator. Also, the only time my temps got really high was climbing those steep grades at 11K+ feet in CO last year. That's an abusive environment, though, and in normal use my temps are great. I think the extra cooler will provide that extra bit of cooling capacity that I need. Finally the IPT VB upgrade increases the line pressure (and thereby flow rate through the coolers), which will also drop the temps.
Definitely! Send me a PM and I'll be happy to get you set up.
Yeah, it was DOH!!! moment. Thanks for the tip on the diodes. This will be my first time attempting a repair on a circuit board, so that will help. Like I said though, everything seems to function normally as far as locking/unlocking, the locked indicator light, and the blinking when locking/unlocking, it's just the bulb in the switch that won't light up. I'm pretty sure the fried resistor has just upped the resistance on the circuit. The LED still lights because it can operate on less current, but the increased resistance is blocking enough current from the circuit that there is not enough to light the bulb. I'll swap in a new resistor and go from there, but I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that those diodes are OK.[/QUOTE]
You can use a soldering gun and some solder-wick to pull the old solder off the board/resistor lead, Home Depot or Radio Shack should have it... That resistor is probably open now... Do you have a DVM or Analog meter? A DVM usually has a setting for testing diodes, with an analog- use X1 range: red(+) to anode, black(-) to cathode should read 600-800R. Reverse the leads, should be infinite (unless the diode is across a relay coil, then low R will be displayed. You'll have to lift the relay, in this case).Sorry if this info is too basic!
RE the 70264, I picked it up for $40, so the first reason was that it was cheap. It's got more cooling capacity than the TRD cooler, so I figured I can either replace the TRD cooler, go in line along WITH the TRD cooler, or I could use it on my Wife's '00. The reason I want to try two coolers in line is because my radiator is in great shape, and if the two coolers work out that will save me $125 on a new radiator. Also, the only time my temps got really high was climbing those steep grades at 11K+ feet in CO last year. That's an abusive environment, though, and in normal use my temps are great. I think the extra cooler will provide that extra bit of cooling capacity that I need. Finally the IPT VB upgrade increases the line pressure (and thereby flow rate through the coolers), which will also drop the temps.
Definitely! Send me a PM and I'll be happy to get you set up.
Yeah, it was DOH!!! moment. Thanks for the tip on the diodes. This will be my first time attempting a repair on a circuit board, so that will help. Like I said though, everything seems to function normally as far as locking/unlocking, the locked indicator light, and the blinking when locking/unlocking, it's just the bulb in the switch that won't light up. I'm pretty sure the fried resistor has just upped the resistance on the circuit. The LED still lights because it can operate on less current, but the increased resistance is blocking enough current from the circuit that there is not enough to light the bulb. I'll swap in a new resistor and go from there, but I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that those diodes are OK.[/QUOTE]
You can use a soldering gun and some solder-wick to pull the old solder off the board/resistor lead, Home Depot or Radio Shack should have it... That resistor is probably open now... Do you have a DVM or Analog meter? A DVM usually has a setting for testing diodes, with an analog- use X1 range: red(+) to anode, black(-) to cathode should read 600-800R. Reverse the leads, should be infinite (unless the diode is across a relay coil, then low R will be displayed. You'll have to lift the relay, in this case).Sorry if this info is too basic!
BigFishAllDay
New member
Wow, I appreciate the offer to help. I'm guessing you work in a related field, because I can tell from your post you've got some experience in this department.
Thanks LC! I dropped this one in about 45 minutes, of course I wasn't being super careful because it was coming out of a parts truck. When I started to pull it down, a couple springs and a check valve shot out and I had to track them down, but it was good experience for doing the install once the VB is ready for the '01.
I'm confident that two external coolers, coupled with the additional line pressure & reduced shift times, will significantly reduce my trans temps. I've been watching them all winter and since it got colder I haven't seen a temp above 160, even with hard use. It's just those demanding situations during the summer where I need just a little more. I'm still on the original fan setup, and I don't forsee changing that unless I've still got issues after these mods. At that point, I'd probably just replace the radiator and go in line w/the radiator cooler before adding a fan.
Your switch is working like a champ! The bulb didn't even burn out when I shorted the wires. It's funny you mention the little helper. My Wife asked me the same thing when she was checking out my post: "Why isn't there a picture of Grace?"
Thanks for the advice, Poleclimber! I've got a decent multi-meter, but I'll have to check and see if it has any of the functions you mentioned. I know for sure I can check for continuity across the resistor and measure the resistance, which will let me know if it's open or not. None of these diodes appear to be across the relay coils (there are 2 relays on the board), but I'll have to take a closer look. Fortunately I do have some local help as well. For years, my Uncle owned a business where he built industrial scales, and he built the circuit boards that controlled them himself. I'm pretty sure he's still got all his equipment, so I'm going to ask him to lend me a hand on it.
rideexileex
Senior Member
Ha it was an unintentional experience too.... Had to fix a few hundred dollar dev board during my junior year at school. It was huge and I finally found all the blown circuitry. Woes of engineering
URBAN ASSAULT
New member
Thanks to you, I have had ZERO productivity at work this a.m. and have added several thousand dollars to my buildlist/wishlist.
I am finally caught up with your build. Subscribed!
Great work!!!
I am finally caught up with your build. Subscribed!
Great work!!!
poleclimber63
Member
Good!
Excellent! I slipped with the relay, You'll have to lift one end of the diode... anyways, sounds like you have lots of help. By the way, the cathode side of the diode has a white stripe... Good luck!
Excellent! I slipped with the relay, You'll have to lift one end of the diode... anyways, sounds like you have lots of help. By the way, the cathode side of the diode has a white stripe... Good luck!
BigFishAllDay
New member
An Engineer huh, makes sense.
Thanks, U.A. I'm happy to help empty your wallet anytime. Thanks for taking the time to read through all the updates, for the compliment, and for subscribing.
I've got a fair share of wiring/electrical experience under my belt too, so I'm sure I'll get it figured out. Between installing the alarm, the e-locker retrofit wiring, the URD wiring, the guages, and all the "etc" that I've done on this truck I've seen just about all there is in terms of 4Runner electrical.
BTW, when you're quoting someone, you should edit your post to remove the portion of the quote that you do NOT intend to reference. It would make your replies easier to decipher.
poleclimber63
Member
OOps, I just re-read my last post and it was quite senseless! Next time I'll think a little more carefully and not post when I'm in a rush! Sorry, no disrespect intended!
DGO-SR5
New member
I have read through this entire thread in the last day as a guest/visitor and it made me decide to register. Amazing build and the fish pictures have been great as well. The pictures of the southwest Colorado trails are right in my back yard as I live and work in Silverton in the summers. Keep up the awesome work and adventures!
BigFishAllDay
New member
No worries, PC63.
That's awesome man. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to read through the build, and leave a comment. It's always good to know that people are actually reading what I put up.
I'm glad you enjoyed the fish pictures, hopefully I can get some more soon... it's been too long. You're a luck man to live in that area, it is gorgeous up there. Thanks again, and welcome to T4R.org!
Stockwell45
New member
So...where did you buy your 861's? I think they are in my near future.
BigFishAllDay
New member
I bought mine from TRDParts4U (Toyota of Dallas), they had a better price than Toytec and I bought them during a 10% off sale on OME products, so my total was $165 shipped.
TRDParts4U has them for sale now at $160.17 + shipping, and Toytec has them listed on their site under the LandCruiser section for $169.99 + shipping. Nothing against Toytec, because they will price match other websites, but I usually prefer to buy from the seller that doesn't play pricing games and simply offers the lowest price up front.
Here's the link to the TRDParts4U page: OLD MAN EMU FRONT Coil Springs LOW, HEAVY LOAD OME2861
TRDParts4U has them for sale now at $160.17 + shipping, and Toytec has them listed on their site under the LandCruiser section for $169.99 + shipping. Nothing against Toytec, because they will price match other websites, but I usually prefer to buy from the seller that doesn't play pricing games and simply offers the lowest price up front.
Here's the link to the TRDParts4U page: OLD MAN EMU FRONT Coil Springs LOW, HEAVY LOAD OME2861
rideexileex
Senior Member
Hows that ECU doing?
BigFishAllDay
New member
rideexileex, thanks for asking man. I've been working on the '97 quite a bit and I haven't had any time to mess with it yet, so it's doing about the same. I've been DD'ing the '01 for the last couple weeks and I've tested the E-Locker a couple times. It's still working great, except for the light on the switch not functioning, so I haven't been too worried about it. I'll probably track down some resistors tomorrow and get in touch with my Uncle.
Also, the Valve Body is done, and is in transit back to me as I type. Should be here on Monday, installed by next Sunday.
Also, the Valve Body is done, and is in transit back to me as I type. Should be here on Monday, installed by next Sunday.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Weekend before last, I took a ride with Wife & Baby to try and find some snow wheeling. Unfortunately the road we went looking for was closed for the winter, so we didn't get to play. I was hoping to make Baby's first wheeling trip a snow run, but oh well. We ended up taking the dogs for a walk and hanging out, and she still had fun.
(NO she doesn't ride around in the 4Runner like this, I just grabbed a quick shot before we strapped her into the car seat)
An opportunity came up to purchase another E-Locker ECU at a decent price, so I went ahead and bought it. I will just swap the new one in for the time being while I get the old one repaired. I plan to hang on to whichever one I don't use as a spare in case I have any other problems in the future. The new ECU will also allow me to verify exactly what type of resistor I need for the old ECU, since the markings were burned off when I smoked it.
Also, the Valve Body is back from I.P.T. and has been fully upgraded. I need to find a couple afternoons to install it, along with the B&M 70264, some fresh fluid, a new filter, and some new lines to the coolers (I accidentally used fuel line on one of the runs from the cooler to the trans hard lines... oops). I inspected the V.B. and it looks good as far as I can tell. I spotted a few things that were modified, so I know they didn't just clean it up and send it back to me. :fro:
I finally got the Limit Straps installed.... for an easy job, they were a total pain the ass. I have now officially made my ugliest weld to date.
(Want to know what parts are needed for a front limit strap setup? Click here > Limit Strap Parts List)
Measuring up the mounting location on the D/S....
I used a sanding wheel on the Dremel to clean the paint off the frame...
Before I realized that it was going to be a tough position in which to lay a bead, I laid down a snake of a weld. I tried to get in there and grind it off, but there was no way to get the grinder in there without tearing everything up. My only option was to run a couple more passes and really burn everything in. It came out looking nasty... just nasty.
I was more prepared on the other side, and things got a lot better..
I wanted to be sure that the welds were going to hold, so after they cooled, I started with a dead blow hammer and pounded the snot out of the bracket. Then I moved on to a framing hammer. I actually bent the 1/4" thick bracket by hammering on it, and the welds held up just fine, so I think they'll be ok. (notice all the dents in the bracket, and the bend to the right)
Moving on to the P/S, I was determined to take my time and do a little better...
The welds came out much better... not perfect, or beautiful, but strong.
Add a little self-etching primer, and flat black...
And all that was left was to install the straps and adjust them.
Putting 101 lb/ft of torque on the lower shock bolt got a little interesting, because the limit straps kept trying to rotate with the nut. I threaded a coat hanger through the D/S strap end and twisted it tightly around the LCA to secure the D/S strap. That worked out great.
On the P/S I had to prevent rotation in the opposite direction relative to the LCA, and I found that a 17mm socket between the strap end and the LCA worked great for that purpose...
I adjusted the straps to where the spindle/UBJ comes within 1/8" of the coil under the full weight of the wheel/tire combo and the full downward pressure of the shock/coil. That was the recommend clearance per the instructions from Sonoran Steel.
After the install was complete I took the truck around the neighborhood and hit some speed bumps that normally result in major contact between my front suspension parts at any speed above 20 mph. I hit them all at 30 mph on the nose, and had ZERO contact between the spindles/UBJ's and the coils... PERFECT! No noise, no drama, just nice smooth launches over the speed bumps. The welds held up just fine, too.
Last but not least, I took some measurements between the edge of the fender flare and the top of the tire. At full droop I measured 8.75", and at ride height I measured 6.5", on both sides. So, with the current setup, I've got 2.25" of droop at ride height at the front tires outside edge, and the rest is uptravel.
All done, side by side:
(NO she doesn't ride around in the 4Runner like this, I just grabbed a quick shot before we strapped her into the car seat)
An opportunity came up to purchase another E-Locker ECU at a decent price, so I went ahead and bought it. I will just swap the new one in for the time being while I get the old one repaired. I plan to hang on to whichever one I don't use as a spare in case I have any other problems in the future. The new ECU will also allow me to verify exactly what type of resistor I need for the old ECU, since the markings were burned off when I smoked it.
Also, the Valve Body is back from I.P.T. and has been fully upgraded. I need to find a couple afternoons to install it, along with the B&M 70264, some fresh fluid, a new filter, and some new lines to the coolers (I accidentally used fuel line on one of the runs from the cooler to the trans hard lines... oops). I inspected the V.B. and it looks good as far as I can tell. I spotted a few things that were modified, so I know they didn't just clean it up and send it back to me. :fro:
I finally got the Limit Straps installed.... for an easy job, they were a total pain the ass. I have now officially made my ugliest weld to date.
(Want to know what parts are needed for a front limit strap setup? Click here > Limit Strap Parts List)
Measuring up the mounting location on the D/S....
I used a sanding wheel on the Dremel to clean the paint off the frame...
Before I realized that it was going to be a tough position in which to lay a bead, I laid down a snake of a weld. I tried to get in there and grind it off, but there was no way to get the grinder in there without tearing everything up. My only option was to run a couple more passes and really burn everything in. It came out looking nasty... just nasty.
I was more prepared on the other side, and things got a lot better..
I wanted to be sure that the welds were going to hold, so after they cooled, I started with a dead blow hammer and pounded the snot out of the bracket. Then I moved on to a framing hammer. I actually bent the 1/4" thick bracket by hammering on it, and the welds held up just fine, so I think they'll be ok. (notice all the dents in the bracket, and the bend to the right)
Moving on to the P/S, I was determined to take my time and do a little better...
The welds came out much better... not perfect, or beautiful, but strong.
Add a little self-etching primer, and flat black...
And all that was left was to install the straps and adjust them.
Putting 101 lb/ft of torque on the lower shock bolt got a little interesting, because the limit straps kept trying to rotate with the nut. I threaded a coat hanger through the D/S strap end and twisted it tightly around the LCA to secure the D/S strap. That worked out great.
On the P/S I had to prevent rotation in the opposite direction relative to the LCA, and I found that a 17mm socket between the strap end and the LCA worked great for that purpose...
I adjusted the straps to where the spindle/UBJ comes within 1/8" of the coil under the full weight of the wheel/tire combo and the full downward pressure of the shock/coil. That was the recommend clearance per the instructions from Sonoran Steel.
After the install was complete I took the truck around the neighborhood and hit some speed bumps that normally result in major contact between my front suspension parts at any speed above 20 mph. I hit them all at 30 mph on the nose, and had ZERO contact between the spindles/UBJ's and the coils... PERFECT! No noise, no drama, just nice smooth launches over the speed bumps. The welds held up just fine, too.
Last but not least, I took some measurements between the edge of the fender flare and the top of the tire. At full droop I measured 8.75", and at ride height I measured 6.5", on both sides. So, with the current setup, I've got 2.25" of droop at ride height at the front tires outside edge, and the rest is uptravel.
All done, side by side:
Last edited:
4-Ripcord
New member
Those limit straps look so cool!
Always good to see the less than common mods being done, and you are the king of those!
I'm itching to hear how that valve body works for you, sure looks like its ready for some power! I think you found the only salvageable part on that 4runner at the yard haha.
Always good to see the less than common mods being done, and you are the king of those!
I'm itching to hear how that valve body works for you, sure looks like its ready for some power! I think you found the only salvageable part on that 4runner at the yard haha.
Similar threads
