I did not even know that lit up.
Yup... makes it a little bit easier to find in the dark. I needed the help because I get confused going from the switch in my '97 (mounted by the e-brake) to the one in my '01 (on the dash).
I agree. Had no idea that the rear window button had a light. What bulb does it take?
The 3mm size.... whichever color you like >>>
LINK
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Got another install crossed off the list.... 1/2" body lift, courtesy of [MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION]
As I understand it, most people are NOT replacing the hardware when installing these 1/2" body lifts. After looking at the amount of exposed threads on the factory body mount bolts, I was not comfortable with re-using them. All 10 of them had less than 1/2" of exposed threads as they sat from the factory. The body mounting bolts on other model years may have additional length, in fact, I checked my '97 and all of the body mounting bolts had enough exposed thread that I would probably feel comfortable doing this without new hardware for the body mounts. I checked my Wife's '00 and the bolts appeared the same as the ones on my '01.
Before pics of the body to bumper gaps...
NOTE in this picture, the dent under the tail light from body contact with the rear bumper. Also, a sharp eye will be able to spot the small buckle in the sheet metal just ahead of the front lower corner of the tail light.. the body has started to bulge outward due to the impacts from the CBI rear bumper.
After pics of the body to bumper gaps...
I couldn't get any significant extension via adjusting the steering shaft, so I decided to put some longer bolts on the rag joint, and some washers to act as a temporary spacer. I'm going to pull the washers ASAP and replace them with a 1/4" steel spacer (which I'll just make out of some plate steel).
Again, this is a place where I don't think it's a good idea to just install a 1/2" body lift and "let it be". Before I added the washers, the two rubber plates on the rag joint were stretched upward like a taco shell, due to the rag joint being pulled apart. You can see in the picture below that the rubber section is still being pulled slightly upward.
The main reason that I believe a spacer is needed is that the integrity of the rag joint must be maintained. The two upright steel posts that are perpendicular to the rag joint bolts MUST engage the slots on the top metal section of the rag joint. The rubber is there to allow for some flex in the joint (~20 degrees of rotation), and the steel posts are there to limit that flex. If they do not engage the metal slots, you could literally tear the rag joint apart if you got into a situation where the front tire was bound up, the steering became difficult (ie wheels wedged between rocks), and you are forced to put excess steering force on the wheel to turn through the obstacle.
With or without the washers in place, those posts are barely in the slots with a 1/2" body lift. The washers just allow a temporary solution that will keep the rubber in position closer to flat (and less likely to tear), until I can make a spacer.
UPDATE: I MADE A SPACER. FOR PICS/INFO AND INFO REGARDING THE LENGTHS OF THE NEW HARDWARE FOR THE BODY LIFT, CLICK HERE >
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd-65.html#post1956208
I checked the clearance between the engine cooling fan and the shroud and there is plenty of room, enough to put my pointer finger between the fan blades and the bottom of the shroud.
I noticed that the intake tube was showing a little flex in the silicone couplers after the body lift. I loosened the clamps and re-tightened them, allowing them to rotate, and ensuring that there was no stress on the couplers.
The shift linkage on the transmission saw no adverse effects from the 1/2" body lift and required no adjustment. There was enough slop in the linkages to allow for the extra 1/2". The radiator hoses also looked fine. The gap between frame and body is very minimal as viewed through the wheel wells, and I'm not going to worry about covering it. It is only visible in the rear wheel wells, and looks close enough to stock that it is not noticeable to the un-trained eye.
The next day, it was time to get cleaned up in preparation for the next round of installs... The rig has to be mud free for me to work on what's coming next.
And the overall shots with the 1/2" body lift...