The tire carrier is all done and has seen real world testing under every type of condition to which it will be subjected over a span of about 2K miles. It's tough, easy to use, vibration free, and it's 10x sturdier than what CBI came up with.
We left off here...
I got started by setting up the main structure. Instead of the cheesy angle iron that CBI uses, I went with 2"x3" .125 wall rectangular tubing. This is the same material that is used for the main arm, and adds a ton of rigidity to the main structure. I set the carrier up off center this time around, moving the tire 8 inches toward the passenger side of the rig. This will help to balance the overall weight on the rig, allow for a shorter swing arm, and less stress on the spindle.
Then I started working on the tire mounting plate. The mounting plate itself is made by RuffStuff and is 3/8", the shaped gussets are Ruffstuff as well at 1/4", and the smaller gussets are 3/16" from the scrap bin. The section of tubing that joins the plate the main arm is the same 2x3 used elsewhere. Notice how the edge of the 2x3 tubing has been beveled to allow for greater weld penetration at the joint. This process was performed on all weld joints forming the main structure.
I was able to more closely match the angle of the tire with the angle of the back window, which is something that always bugged me about the CBI setup. Theirs is close, but leans more to the vertical side of things and looks a little off when viewed from the side, IMO. I also moved the tire position up another ~2 inches and inward toward the hatch another inch.
Tire mount, tacked in place...
The next go round, I welded up the main structure. Thanks in large part to all the joint prep, the welds came out great and I have no doubt that this thing will be solid as a rock.
One of my favorite parts of the build was cutting off the POS augur latching mechanism that CBI uses. To keep this thing from rattling loose I used to have to put my foot on it and press down to get it as tight as possible. When it came time to open the damn thing I'd have to kick it loose, and after injuring my foot doing so, I resorted to keeping/using a hammer to knock it open. Needless to say, it was a pain in the ass to open/close.
Old latching setup GONE, and preparing to set up new latch arrangement. You will also notice in this picture that I added 1/8" dimple died 45 degree gussets and two more 1/4" 90 degree gussets from RuffStuff to the uprights on the main structure. Also, as I guaranteed once before, I stole another idea from [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and welded a 2" receiver tube to the outside face of the tire mounting plate to allow for future mounting of Rotopax fuel containers. Last, I welded shut the license plate mounting holes that CBI created. They were too low, and I found it impossible to insert a tow hitch into the receiver without bending the license plate upward to gain clearance.
And by the end of that day's session... New latch setup configured and tacked in place, and hi-lift mounts tacked in place. The hi lift mounts are 45 degree, three faced sections cut from the 2x3 tubing, drilled with 1/2" holes. I used 1/2" x 3.5" bolts, locking nuts, and a couple extra nuts as spacers to create a hi lift mount. Notice that the hi lift has now been flipped to ride handle down, keeping the jaws of the jack high and tight and out of harms way. I also moved the jack inward about 1/2" and upward ~4". I was able to shorten the swing arm a total of about 4".
Next I set up the new strike plate/landing pad for the latching mechanism. I used a jigsaw to cut a section from a cutting board, then drilled it to accept 1/4" hex driven flat head bolts. The new strike plate is 3.5" x 3" versus 1.5" x 2" on the CBI setup. This distributes the clamping forces of the latch over a much greater area, and allows for a deeper, wider foot for latch end of the swing arm to sit on. The bigger footprint greatly reduces the tendency of the arm to flex from front to back and place twisting forces on the spindle.
The new De-Sta-Co latch hook welded in place, as well as bolted in place (for extra strength/backup attachment) with a grade 10.9 M10x1.25 bolt. No pictures, but I completely welded shut the 1" bolt hole for the CBI augur latch, and ground it smooth. It looks like it was never there.
Finally, some overall pics that might help answer any questions...
In this pic you can see that I moved the license plate mounting holes up about 1.5" to get the plate out of the way of the receiver. I used a small strip of 1/8" plate to create the mount for the license plate light, which I re-used from the old setup. The plate is rounded at the outside edge to match the contour of the light housing. I kept the license plate centered on the rig, which I thought looked best. The link of chain that is welded to the center upright is a security measure and allows me to pass a padlock through the link and then through the holes in the main bar of the hi-lift to keep thieves at bay and provide a measure of safety should the hi lift bolts fail catastrophically. Last, notice that each of the hi lift mounting bolts are drilled to allow for the insertion of a hitch pin. I am also using nylon locking nuts to secure the jack. Between the hitch pins and the outside lock nuts, the jack should never work itself loose.
Front view of the tire mounting plate. The studs are M12x1.50 to match the factory wheel studs, and are welded to the plate at the rear. The receiver hitch was fully welded front and back, and the front surface smoothed and rounded for a clean look (refer to previous pictures where you can clearly see that the larger surrounding square section at the front of the receiver was not fully welded). It will get a custom hitch cover eventually.
Rear view of the tire mounting plate. I capped the top of the 2x3 rectangular tubing with a section of 1/8" plate, leaving an overhanging lip on both sides, which I drilled with a 5/16" hole. This will provide a mounting surface to which I can attach my hi lift base in the future, as well as an oversized hi lift base for use on soft soil / sand. Note that I also added a 1/4" ruff stuff gusset between the main upright and the tire mount on the inboard side. I gusseted the top side as the main force will be a downward pull on that joint.
And the beauty... the new latch mount. This boxed section provides rigidity and fully encloses the De-Sta-Co 341-R 2,000 lb. capacity locking clamp (
Link to Destaco Latch on Amazon). Boxing in the latch will protect it and prevent accidental openings resulting from impacts with the trail surface on steep climbs.
The bottom lip makes contact with the bottom, rear facing, diagonal surface of the bumper when the arm is fully latched. Combined with large flat mating surface at the top of the latch housing, the bottom lip eliminates the ability for the arm to rotate around the outside edge of the bumper and fully indexes the latch side of the arm to the bumper itself.
The only thing I added that is not pictured here is a small lip of steel that sits vertical and is welded to the innermost edge of the flat section of steel that mates with the landing pad. This small lip grabs the back edge of the landing pad once the latch is engaged and prevents ALL front to back motion of the arm. Without the lip, the arm would slowly work it's way back about 1/8" before the tension on the u-bolt fully maxed out. There was no way dial out the movement via increased tension on the u-bolt, so I added the "grabbing" lip. I can take a picture if anyone wants to have a look.
Ready for paint... I used the same paint that I used for the front bumper. Rustoleum self etching primer followed by Rustoleum Pro semi gloss black. It came out pretty good, and got a small touch up paint pen for any chips in the finish.
I also drilled & tapped the diagonal uprights on each side to accept an M8x1.25 bolt. This allowed me to mount my LED aux reverse lights. They are wired via a relay so that they come on automatically when the 4Runner is shifted into reverse. I may put them on a switch someday for those pesky tailgaters.
Also, notice that there is another side benefit to off-setting the tire to the passenger side. I can now once again access the key hole in the hatch door without opening the tire carrier. This is very convenient when you need to roll the back window down quickly from outside the vehicle to get something in/out of the back.
Lights on... I'll get a night shot one of these days. They're bright!
Overall shot, notice the amount of protection for the latch. I'll get some better shots of this too.
So that's about it. The wobbling and dancing of the tire has been completely eliminated and I'm no longer staring at tire in my rear view mirror that looks like it's going to fall off at any moment. I have noticed a dramatic decrease in vibrations inside the cab as a result of the tire staying still while the vehicle is in motion.
Everything is now high and tight and out of the way, with the back edge of the bumper being the limiting factor in departure angle. If I were to drag the back bumper on a steep ascent, the tire would still be several inches away from the ground, with no risk of the high lift taking a bite out of the trail.
The new latch mechanism is tight and trouble free, and offers true one handed operation to both open/close. It is a million times better than the augur latch and now I can leave the hammer in the tool bag.
I have a little over 30 hours in rebuilding this thing, but for me it was totally worth it. The new carrier is a HUGE improvement and has finally removed the biggest thorn in my side with regard to this rig.
If you read all that, thanks for taking the time.