I have been a fan of this build for quite some time now. Early on I identified your build, direction, and adventures as motivation for where I would like to end up, at least in part.
I have a couple of questions for you. Now that you have had both your Goodyear Duratracs and the BFG KO2s, (both in E rating), how would you compare the two on and offroad? I have the BFG KO2s in the smaller 265/75/16 in E. I find that they are a pretty quiet tire and fairly comfortable on the pavement. Granted, I came to 4runners from a 1994 truck that made driving down our Washington highways feel like rolling down a steep hill in a wooden wheel barrel. So the 4runner suspension, (even old stock) felt like a huge improvement.
I realize that they are slightly different size tires, but did the two E rated tires feel much different as far as on road comfort? I read that you notice that the KO2s got a bit chewed up on one of your recent trips. If you were getting new tires today, what would you go with?
Hopefully, I will have time to install my lift this week if work will leave me alone long enough. I went with King Ext. 2.5s up front with SPC LR UCAs and a SS 1.2 rear lift. From there, I will see how I like the 265/75/16s or entertain the idea of bumping up to 285/75/16.
Your build has been a great resource as it is a similar year and contains a lot of great write ups and pics. Many thanks man.
Man, this has got to be the latest reply I have ever posted, but here it goes...
Duratracs versus KO2s... both are good tires. If I had to choose one over the other, it would be the Duratracs. The KO2s do not hook up as well on rocks, and are not as good in mud. Both tires do very well in snow. Duratracs are much louder on pavement, especially when worn. KO2s are pretty quiet. Ride quality is about the same between the two in an E load range. I have run both in a C load range and they are comparable in that respect as well. Both tires lose big chunks of tread when wheeled on rocks. The rim protector lip on the Duratracs seems to work better, IMO. I have had zero sidewall issues, nor tread punctures with either tire while off road.
For the record, I have KO2s on my 2001 and my Wife's 2008, and Duratracs on the Tacoma.
In terms of size, I don't think it was worth it to go to 295s being such a small jump in diameter. Next time I buy tires I will likely go back to 285s... maybe I'll make the jump to 35s.
I am glad you find the thread useful, and thanks for the compliments.
Nick, as always I love to see your trip photos. The family looks happy! Those shots of Puerco make me homesick! Miss that place.
Congrats on the new house I see there. I don't know if you shared that before.
I am still loving the rework you did on the swingout, looks so clean!
Hey Jim, good eye on the house. We finally moved out of the 'hood back in November 2015. We are up in the heights now, and are much happier here.
Funny thing about the Puerco, that trip was the first time I have ever wheeled my own vehicle out there. I had been a few times as a passenger, but it was definitely more fun as a driver.
Hey man! Sweet updates! Been a while... but happy I came back! Taco looks great man!
Welcome back. I'm not posting much these days either, but have been following your updates as well... it is good to see "mean green" finally wearing a sport hood.
pretty serious rig...beautiful work
Thanks.
HA! Ya learn something new everyday.
I was going over how people either painted or powder coated their bumpers and was looking at you build for something else, I think lug part numbers..
But for some reason, I had not picked up on the subtle difference and mod you did to your AOR front bumper by enclosing it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...one-2001-sport-ed-trd-scd-88.html#post1964635
THAT... and I have the Rustoleum Hammered black on my Stubbs SKO sliders, but I was also a little put off that it is not a true black. They really shouldn't call that black. I had not really thought to paint over the hammered finish, but I might have to give this a go.
I was trying to decide how I want to finish my rear 4XI swing out. I had my AOR powder coated, but even with that, there are a few places that are rusting. Maybe they didn't get all the little nooks and crannies. This makes me question the wisdom of spending money to to the PC at all. Anyway, this thread has proved very informative yet again.
Oh, as far as your .5" BL, did you need to do much besides add the BL, or did you need to adjust steering column, shifter and so on?
Few people have noticed the mods to the bumper. NateMob had a standard AOR plate bumper on his 3rd gen, and one time he was looking at mine in person and didn't notice.
I think powdercoating provides a great baseline, and I would go that route if I were to do the front bumper over again. PC is easy to touch up, and is tougher than paint. Not to mention, painting a large item like a bumper with rattle cans is a pain. That being said, the paint on the bumper has held up surprisingly well. I use black touch up paint to fill in the chips once or twice a year and it is rust free to this day. I prefer paint for things that often need large touch ups or refinishing, like skids and sliders... otherwise powdercoat is the way to go.
The quality and uniformity of the PC finish depends on who is doing the work. I had my roof rack done and it has TONS of nooks and crannies, and zero rust nearly two years later.
RE the body lift, look up my post on the install. I fabricated a small extension for the steering rag joint, but that's all.
Great work on the bumper! :cheers: Would be cool if AOR made it the way you modified it.
Agreed. I think if they offered it as an option they would sell a lot of bumpers.
Nick
I don't know how I missed your mod to the AOR Bumper... Looks amazing! So my question is once the plate is welded in does the bumper still need the stinger as a structural component or with some trussing on the inside could the stinger be done away with all together? It's simply a personal preference to not have a stinger on a plate bumper and with your mod this could be the dream plate bumper for me. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, Sam.
I added both a front panel and a top panel of 3/16" to enclose the winch. I think you could get away with removing the stinger once you box it in that way, especially if you added some bracing to the frame off the lower tubes. I thought about using some plate to tie the lower tubes into the frame where the stock bumper mounts attach on either side.
Also, you could box it using heavier plate for extra strength, or move the winch further back like Glade did to allow for a larger top panel (see the link in the post I made about the bumper mods), which would provide more structural support.
I should mention though, that once you modify the bumper like I have, it becomes a pretty tight fit for the winch. My XRC-8 fit like a glove, and so does my Warn M8000s, but I don't think I could squeeze a 10K or 12K winch in there. Also, with no body lift, you would have to cut the grille due to the winch sitting further back. Both winches just barely clear the grille with a 1/2" body lift.
I texted Scotty (Owner of Addicted Off Road) and asked him. He said the stinger is structural on his bumpers. Adding that extra front piece like Nick did definitely helps if you remove the stinger. Or like you said, adding some internal trussing.
Thanks for helping to answer the question, Aaron.
Same thing he told me when we discussed the modifications I had planned, which influenced my decision to leave the stinger in place.