I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd

There's always skinny tires too. Cooper ST Maxx are 58 lbs at 32.8". Toyo makes the Open Country AT II and RT in 255/80/17 now and they weigh 50/56 lbs and spec at 33.1" each. And the BFG KO2 in 34x10.5r17, they're something like 56lbs, but 33.5" tall. But if you like the look of a wider tire you can throw all that out the window.
 
The 295 KO2s are 63 lbs. and the 315s are 68 lbs., and if I had to choose again, and I'm going to significantly increase the weight of my tire (and deal with the associated effects on drivability) I would rather move up in size by a meaningful amount.

I can respect that logic. However I went with 295/70r17's. For me they are a stepping stone to 35's. I had to bash and trim more than I would have with a 32" range tire. Doing that though set me up to tub them properly in the future. It also made me realize that I'd rather go with 5.29 gearing than 4.88. Again, a step to 35's.

Braking wise everything feels good with the TBU. Flat terrain everything is pretty much the same. Throw a hill or some altitude into the mix and I need 5.29's now. The Ridge Grapplers where 64.7lbs a tire and my rims are 24lbs a piece. That's almost 90lbs at each corner. It's a lot of unsprung weight for sure.

If I had it to do over again I might have re-geared first. What's done is done though. I'll just drive like grandma when I have to go up grades for now. lol
 
There's always skinny tires too. Cooper ST Maxx are 58 lbs at 32.8". Toyo makes the Open Country AT II and RT in 255/80/17 now and they weigh 50/56 lbs and spec at 33.1" each. And the BFG KO2 in 34x10.5r17, they're something like 56lbs, but 33.5" tall. But if you like the look of a wider tire you can throw all that out the window.

I can respect that logic. However I went with 295/70r17's. For me they are a stepping stone to 35's. I had to bash and trim more than I would have with a 32" range tire. Doing that though set me up to tub them properly in the future. It also made me realize that I'd rather go with 5.29 gearing than 4.88. Again, a step to 35's.

Braking wise everything feels good with the TBU. Flat terrain everything is pretty much the same. Throw a hill or some altitude into the mix and I need 5.29's now. The Ridge Grapplers where 64.7lbs a tire and my rims are 24lbs a piece. That's almost 90lbs at each corner. It's a lot of unsprung weight for sure.

If I had it to do over again I might have re-geared first. What's done is done though. I'll just drive like grandma when I have to go up grades for now. lol

Good points.

Anyhow, I wouldn't plan on seeing bigger tires in this build thread.
 
[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] how do you like your 1/2 BL with the 295's? Do you rub? I'm contemplating 295's and was thinking I'd need a 1" BL with the Kings I ordered. Would prefer to go 1/2" if I can.
 
I want to bump this thread purely because it is so legit. Sh*t, it has a table of contents!

Slow clap...:clap2:

That is all.
 
[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION],
I hope you haven't quit the site. Just sent you a PM regarding the quick restore of 5 of your DIY threads. The heavy lifting has been done.
 
[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION],
I hope you haven't quit the site. Just sent you a PM regarding the quick restore of 5 of your DIY threads. The heavy lifting has been done.

Is there a way to archive epic threads such as this, restoring the media assets as well? (not using photobucket)
 
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[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] how do you like your 1/2 BL with the 295's? Do you rub? I'm contemplating 295's and was thinking I'd need a 1" BL with the Kings I ordered. Would prefer to go 1/2" if I can.

If I built this rig again I would have started with a 1" body lift, but having added the body lift so late in the game (post armor), the 1/2" worked out perfectly.

On obstacles that really stuff the front wheels into the wells, the 295s will just barely rub in a couple areas... the frame on each side behind the control arms, the fender liner at the rear about a foot up from the pinch weld, and on the washer fluid bottle, passenger side.

Keep in mind, I have cut my pinch weld more significantly than most, to the extent that the next step is a hole in the firewall, and have cut out sections of my lower fender, flare, and liner as well.


Hey, Chris. I think they're missing you in NM. This summer has been pretty dead as far as trail runs.


Hi, Nathan! Get a rig you can keep for awhile, will ya? I'm curious to see what's next.

I want to bump this thread purely because it is so legit. Sh*t, it has a table of contents!

Slow clap...:clap2:

That is all.

It WAS so legit. Now its like a nude magazine with no pictures. You just have to close your eyes and visualize the build.

[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION],
I hope you haven't quit the site. Just sent you a PM regarding the quick restore of 5 of your DIY threads. The heavy lifting has been done.

PM received & replied. Thanks again.
 
It WAS so legit. Now its like a nude magazine with no pictures. You just have to close your eyes and visualize the build.

Could not have said it better myself. I was lucky enough to have read through the entire build before Photobucket trashed it and it is by far one of the best Ive read. There were a lot of things I used and am using for inspiration on my rig.

Do you happen to have some pictures of the rear swingout you built that you could PM me or something? I am starting mine here in a few days and was planning on using a design similar to yours but now I cant get the pictures.
 
[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]

Hey Nick, I got a question about your rear sway bar links. I recently upgraded to 861 coils out back, and I am running pretty much the same suspension that you are running to accommodate my new rear swing out. I know you are running custom made control arms for better pinion angle, but did you do anything with the sway bar end links beyond the Sonoran Steel relocation brackets?

Oh, and how much, if any did you change your SS panhard bar when you went from LC 7 wraps to the 861s, if you remember?

I think I will wait to adjust mine when I get my bumper back from powder coating to see where I sit, and if I want to crank the front coils up any more.

Thanks man.
 
Stock links with the SS extension brackets out back, and no sway bar up front with 700lb coils on the Icons. Those rear links look like they are hating life when I flex the rear end, but I am still on the original pair. I could probably get a little more travel with longer links, but everything works so well now I don't worry about it.

I have never messed with the SS panhard bar. Steve told me to run the setting at which it was shipped with the 7.5 LC coils. With those coils and the stock bumper I was at 40" ground to fender on 285s with no body lift. I currently sit 40" ground to fender on 295s with 0.5" body lift, so the rear suspension is sitting roughly an inch lower on the now broken-in 861s than it was with the LC coils (I rarely see anyone mention that the 861s sag like all coils as they break in, but they do).

Considering the facts, I could probably shorten the bar, and in the interest of doing so I measured it awhile back and found that it is set roughly 0.5" longer than the OEM bar eye to eye. So basically I could run the stock bar and probably be fine, but will probably end up shortening the SS bar by 0.25" or so to eliminate the last bit of driveshaft to gas tank skid contact, and just go with that. I have also considered selling the SS bar and going with one of the kits from [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] , which look like a better overall solution.
 
Stock links with the SS extension brackets out back, and no sway bar up front with 700lb coils on the Icons. Those rear links look like they are hating life when I flex the rear end, but I am still on the original pair. I could probably get a little more travel with longer links, but everything works so well now I don't worry about it.

I have never messed with the SS panhard bar. Steve told me to run the setting at which it was shipped with the 7.5 LC coils. With those coils and the stock bumper I was at 40" ground to fender on 285s with no body lift. I currently sit 40" ground to fender on 295s with 0.5" body lift, so the rear suspension is sitting roughly an inch lower on the now broken-in 861s than it was with the LC coils (I rarely see anyone mention that the 861s sag like all coils as they break in, but they do).

Considering the facts, I could probably shorten the bar, and in the interest of doing so I measured it awhile back and found that it is set roughly 0.5" longer than the OEM bar eye to eye. So basically I could run the stock bar and probably be fine, but will probably end up shortening the SS bar by 0.25" or so to eliminate the last bit of driveshaft to gas tank skid contact, and just go with that. I have also considered selling the SS bar and going with one of the kits from [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] , which look like a better overall solution.


Cool! Thanks for the info man! It has been handy, more than a few times to be able to reference you or your write ups. I have a lot of the same suspension set up that you run. I however ended up with 600lb Kings up front. I ordered through TAP and advised what I was, and would be running. I said that I thought that 650lb would be right, but I said that if they thought I needed 700lb, to do that instead. So, out of that, I ended up with 600lb. I didn't notice till I was installing. Noob oversight. I like them, but worry that they will not enjoy all the extra weight on the vehicle.

It's not the end of the world, new springs aren't that expensive if it comes down to it. I am not desert racing or anything. As for the rear, I just didn't know if the taller 861 coils would stress the sway bar too much with old set up.

I miss all the great photos in your build thread. :(
 
It has been awhile since the 4Runner got a good, long drive to stretch its legs. There was a dot on the map that I hadn't been to yet, so I took a drive. Some (small) fish were caught, and the 4Runner and I stood atop another county highpoint at 11,661.

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Well 104 pages and four days later I made it through. This thread was addicting and educational. Definitely an inspiration to the new build we are currently working on. Hoping to have it at this level someday Thanks for all the great info.
 
Well 104 pages and four days later I made it through. This thread was addicting and educational. Definitely an inspiration to the new build we are currently working on. Hoping to have it at this level someday Thanks for all the great info.

[MENTION=171314]TeamPez[/MENTION] , you're welcome, and thanks for taking the time to read through the whole thread. I always appreciate it when someone takes the time to post a comment or feedback after reading. I was learning as I built the rig, and doing some things that were, at the time, yet to be done. I tried to document the process well for those who might follow with their builds.

Comments like yours make it worthwhile.

...............................................................................

Quick update on the 4Runner: I had to replace the Boss under-seat sub/amp combo. It started blowing fuses, and after checking/re-checking all the wiring and settings I determined it was inoperable. It is out of warranty, and only cost ~$100 new so it wasn't worth fixing.

The market for compact sub/amp combos must be growing because there are many new offerings that were not available when I last looked. This time around I ended up with a Kenwood KSC-SW11 for about $130. I like it because it is a much smaller unit than the Boss, and uses a digital amplifier and a high sensitivity woofer (110dB) to get big sound out of a small package. It is a little bit "boomier" than the Boss when trying to reproduce the deep notes, but does much better with tight punchy bass notes (rock, alt, metal, ska, etc.)

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Also, I never posted about them, but I added Redline hood struts awhile back. The old mounting location of my circuit breaker for the Big 3 mod interfered with the strut on the driver side, so I built a bracket to hold the breaker out of some sheet metal. I had considered going with the plastic/polycarbonate bracket kit that [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] was making for awhile, but my needs didn't require such an elaborate solution.

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