i have 1 big problem :(

[MrRoo]

I hate rust. But it's something we have to deal with here in Michigan. My 97 has some rust in the same spot. And on the rockers. Not terrible but annoying. I've been using Eastwood rust convertor and it seems to do the trick. Proper prep before spraying is key. I'm out in California for the holidays right now. I can't believe all the old cars I see with zero rust. Cars you would never see in the Midwest because they would be rotted away. I'm almost thinking about buying another 3rd gen out here and driving it back. Lots of nice ones for sale.

 

[kolelt]

Just a shot in the dark but I know the lower seat belt bolt goes right through to the wheel well and is about 1 ft above that area.

I did notice a weird bolt on the outside of the fender. Where you going with this statement though ?


I'd love to buy a 4runner from dry area. But price is different and travel ! How ever I'm shocked that I have. Rust. I take car of the car. Frame is very clean. The whole body under is clean. I guess this was before I bought the car.

 

[foskco87]

Think I'm actually going.to just bring it to body shop and get a quote. If it's reasonable I'll let the body shop fix it. What,do you guys think is a reasonable price for this fix ?

Are you able to find a body shop that fixes rust?? I went around to professional body shops here in Victoria looking to have some rust repaired (like small surface rust), and they literally wouldnt even consider it. Most places just immediately said "we dont repair any rust". Around here all body shops care about is doing insurance-based collision repairs. Its frustrating because I want to pay to have it done professionally but all these body shops act as though they are too good for it. Not sure what to do....I would go to a restoration shop but god knows how much they charge and how long they would take.

I would try wire brushing it yourself in the mean time and seeing what happens...either way its going to need work so you may as well see what you can do on your own first. Maybe you could just POR 15 both sides of the rust in the mean time (assuming the wire brush doesnt go right through). You are lucky atleast in that its in an area that doesnt need to be blended perfectly to match the truck. I really do feel for you... I have a bit of rust starting and I feel lost and unsure of what to do...

I have heard from multiple sources that rubberized rock guard is bad news for that exact reason... it doesnt seal perfectly (or permanently atleast) and then it just lets water behind it and holds in the water.

 

[kolelt]

Are you able to find a body shop that fixes rust?? I went around to professional body shops here in Victoria looking to have some rust repaired (like small surface rust), and they literally wouldnt even consider it. Most places just immediately said "we dont repair any rust". Around here all body shops care about is doing insurance-based collision repairs. Its frustrating because I want to pay to have it done professionally but all these body shops act as though they are too good for it. Not sure what to do....I would go to a restoration shop but god knows how much they charge and how long they would take.

I would try wire brushing it yourself in the mean time and seeing what happens...either way its going to need work so you may as well see what you can do on your own first. Maybe you could just POR 15 both sides of the rust in the mean time (assuming the wire brush doesnt go right through). You are lucky atleast in that its in an area that doesnt need to be blended perfectly to match the truck. I really do feel for you... I have a bit of rust starting and I feel lost and unsure of what to do...

I have heard from multiple sources that rubberized rock guard is bad news for that exact reason... it doesnt seal perfectly (or permanently atleast) and then it just lets water behind it and holds in the water.

I believe the rubberrized undercoat has trapped water inside. I do !! I do regret doing it. But it's such a pain in ASS to remove..it's almost impossible !!

I did find a local body shop who fixes rust. So they say. I just need time to go over and get a quote.

Are there any tips on removing rubberized undercoat.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I did notice a weird bolt on the outside of the fender. Where you going with this statement though ?


I'd love to buy a 4runner from dry area. But price is different and travel ! How ever I'm shocked that I have. Rust. I take car of the car. Frame is very clean. The whole body under is clean. I guess this was before I bought the car.

Possibly water snuck past the threads and ran down the wheel well inside the truck and puddled up in that area. I would imagine you would see a water "trail" from wherever it's coming from. Should really find the source of the leak before you fix it.

What was weird about the bolt you saw?

The sunroof drain is on the passenger side so I don't think that would be it.

 

[kolelt]

Possibly water snuck past the threads and ran down the wheel well inside the truck and puddled up in that area. I would imagine you would see a water "trail" from wherever it's coming from. Should really find the source of the leak before you fix it.

What was weird about the bolt you saw?

The sunroof drain is on the passenger side so I don't think that would be it.

This truck has been in my ownership for 1 year exact. I remember for a fact that before spraying 3M Ruberrized Undercoat, I did not see any rust on the outside part od the fender. Because if I did I would of taken care of it and never sprayed the undercoat. Reason for spraying the ruber undercoat, was to protect from rust ( yea funny haha ) also from rocks and salt ect. So I did both passanger and driver side read fenders. I did start noticing brownish, rustish looking discoloration on the driver side rear fender right where my two fingers are pointing. I paid no attention. But I was skeptical that it could be rust. But since prior to spraying the undeundercoat it seemed fine. However the other passanger side seems clean. Although I haven't looked under the carpet. But there is no discoloration.

So if noticed that the undercoat around that area where the bolt is, is brown. Clearly hiding rust behind it. And if you look closely the undercoat kinda has uneven coating since the fender has odd shapes. So the undercoat kinda created rough/crack looking surface. On the bent areas of fender. But I figured since it was a thick coat that water would dk no demage. As it says, the undercoat is design to protect agains rust, water ect. But can this kinda demage have taken within 1 year do you think ? Or...... Looking at pics it does look like the bolt is the main rust point, because you can see like water marks dripping down since the fender is round and gravity does this. But if you look at other pic where you can see the door gormet, it looks rusty to. It could be a bad gormet, letting water sit and slowly drip inside and the CARPET catches it and absorbs it !!! So two theorys. I will have to look again very very closly when I'm of work and will take and share more pictures for help.

Please let me know what you think. Long story short, either the bolt was demaged, and water got through it and carpet absorbed it and kept the moisture or the gormet is bad and lets water slowly drop on carpet causing it to absorb. When I pulled the CARPET back, there was moisture there, little wet, but under the CARPET and not on top.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I would be curious to see if there is a water trail from the bolt head down to your area of rust. You would have to remove the side trim piece next to the rear seats. It comes loose easy enough and at that point the only thing preventing it from being removed from the truck is the seat belt bracket which is held in by the bolt in question.

When you say grommet are you talking about the door seal?

I thought of one other spot you can check quickly and that's the rubber boot around the door ajar switch.

 

[maverickhawk]

rust

You may be able to do this yourself if you can find clean metal all around the rust. Let's assume you can. Measure and photograph the amount of metal you need. Then-
( I'm going to do this step by step. I suck at English.)
First try to find a clean rust free truck being parted out. They are out there. You may have to look on Craig'slist in southern states. Try to find someone who will cut out a little more than you need. Be prepared to pay 25-100 dollars.
If you can find the piece. u can get some panel glue from an auto body supply shop. Only buy from a place that will let you rent or borrow a glue gun or dispenser.
Cut out the rust from your truck, and cut the new piece a half inch larger than your hole. Get some small self tapping screws and fit the panel to your liking. Screw it in place. Then remove it and prep it for gluing per instructions. Then do it.
Most new cars have more glued joints than welded joints.
This is my future plans for my rocker panels. I weld nearly everyday on classic cars, if I can butt weld. if I have to lap joint I will use panel glue.
This could all be done for less than a couple hundred dollars. I would be glad to provide more details if you decide to try it. There a lot of good products out there, unfortunately most people don't follow the directions.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Possibly water snuck past the threads and ran down the wheel well inside the truck and puddled up in that area. I would imagine you would see a water "trail" from wherever it's coming from. Should really find the source of the leak before you fix it.

What was weird about the bolt you saw?

The sunroof drain is on the passenger side so I don't think that would be it.

Are you sure it doesn't drain on both sides? My landcruiser did and I was thinking the 4runner does too but I could be wrong.

 

[kolelt]

You may be able to do this yourself if you can find clean metal all around the rust. Let's assume you can. Measure and photograph the amount of metal you need. Then-
( I'm going to do this step by step. I suck at English.)
First try to find a clean rust free truck being parted out. They are out there. You may have to look on Craig'slist in southern states. Try to find someone who will cut out a little more than you need. Be prepared to pay 25-100 dollars.
If you can find the piece. u can get some panel glue from an auto body supply shop. Only buy from a place that will let you rent or borrow a glue gun or dispenser.
Cut out the rust from your truck, and cut the new piece a half inch larger than your hole. Get some small self tapping screws and fit the panel to your liking. Screw it in place. Then remove it and prep it for gluing per instructions. Then do it.
Most new cars have more glued joints than welded joints.
This is my future plans for my rocker panels. I weld nearly everyday on classic cars, if I can butt weld. if I have to lap joint I will use panel glue.
This could all be done for less than a couple hundred dollars. I would be glad to provide more details if you decide to try it. There a lot of good products out there, unfortunately most people don't follow the directions.

I got 2 options in my head. 1 is to let a auto body shop do it. 2 is me and my friend will DIY, he's a good mechanic with many tools plus garage and lift. He also has a Eastwood welder. If igo with #2 we want to cut out and weld new piece. But would you recommend welding over glued ?
[MENTION=107674]JRZEE2000TR4LTD[/MENTION], by gormet I meant the black rubber seal around the door, the body part where the door shuts and touches the seal. Sorry if I sound stupid. Exactly what do you mean by door ajar switch ?

The more I talk about this the more details I'm getting and advice. Thanks guys. Much help. I'll make sure to take plenty of photos soon

 

[cj80cruiser]

The door ajar switch is the black rubber covered button located on the body that pushes in when you close the door.

 

[maverickhawk]

I got 2 options in my head. 1 is to let a auto body shop do it. 2 is me and my friend will DIY, he's a good mechanic with many tools plus garage and lift. He also has a Eastwood welder. If igo with #2 we want to cut out and weld new piece. But would you recommend welding over glue.

The more I talk about this the more details I'm getting and advice. Thanks guys. Much help. I'll make sure to take plenty of photos soon

Please no, do not try to weld it. Even tig welding would be a pain. Fitting a butt weld would take forever. Lap joint welding promotes rust. More on that later. Glueing is actually stronger and seals the joints if done properly. Cheaper, easier, and stronger.

 

[kolelt]

Please no, do not try to weld it. Even tig welding would be a pain. Fitting a butt weld would take forever. Lap joint welding promotes rust. More on that later. Glueing is actually stronger and seals the joints if done properly. Cheaper, easier, and stronger.

Really ? This is the first time I hear this. How so ? I'm curious !

 

[bama16]

i'm curious too. We aren't talking about a carbon fiber ferrari monocoque. There are plenty of ways to ensure that the rust doesn't come back. If you are looking for a temp fix, go ahead and glue your car together. A far more permanent option is welding. Make sure you have gas with his welder, i wouldn't flux this type of job....or really any wire fed welding job. From there just use some seam sealer, eastwood has some great options.

 

[kolelt]

i'm curious too. We aren't talking about a carbon fiber ferrari monocoque. There are plenty of ways to ensure that the rust doesn't come back. If you are looking for a temp fix, go ahead and glue your car together. A far more permanent option is welding. Make sure you have gas with his welder, i wouldn't flux this type of job....or really any wire fed welding job. From there just use some seam sealer, eastwood has some great options.

I would assume welding is the proper way and then a sealant around the weld. And por15 on top. That's what I'm thinking. The glue could get lose through years. If welded properly it should be water tight. My friend has a Eastwood welder. The type that you press and it feeds the little copper wire.

 

[kolelt]

I'm also thinking of buying por15 the kit with metal prep and degreaser, and taking the whole carpet out and putting por15. What you guys think ? I already bought the starter kit. Which I should of gotten the big set.

 

[maverickhawk]

i'm curious too. We aren't talking about a carbon fiber ferrari monocoque. There are plenty of ways to ensure that the rust doesn't come back. If you are looking for a temp fix, go ahead and glue your car together. A far more permanent option is welding. Make sure you have gas with his welder, i wouldn't flux this type of job....or really any wire fed welding job. From there just use some seam sealer, eastwood has some great options.

Well you're wrong. You weld two pieces of sheet metal together and I will show you how break the welds. I'll panel glue two similar pieces together and you won't be able to separate them without a torch. Trust me it is comical watching someone trying to do this.I would bet my 4runner you can't separate the glue joint. You study Ferrari's, I restore classic cars. I would also put my welds up against any of your welds.

 

[maverickhawk]

I'm also thinking of buying por15 the kit with metal prep and degreaser, and taking the whole carpet out and putting por15. What you guys think ? I already bought the starter kit. Which I should of gotten the big set.

Por 15 is a good product. I used to be a distributor when I had my media blast business. Used properly it's awesome. Not following the exact steps it will fail immediately. I've heard trustworthy account's of other similar and simpler working just as well. Using a cleaner such as wax & grease remover, or brake cleaner with Por 15 does not work. I found out the hard way.

 

[matuszyk]

Always try to understand the root cause of the problem before you spend money on the result. You don't want a repeat performance.

I would really dry out the area. Then I would take a garden hose and check out the seals from bottom to top to see if you can blast water in a recreate the source of the moisture. If you can not, I would peal away the undercoating and see if there is trapped moisture. Any small amount of moisture will reak havoc on the steel as the pH goes acidic. Throw in a little chloride from rock salt, and you are screwed.

Nothing against good autobody shops, but there are times when finding an independent welder that will really spend the time cutting out the rusted metal and replacing it with new metal will provide you with the best result, and often for the best price.

 

[kolelt]

Well you're wrong. You weld two pieces of sheet metal together and I will show you how break the welds. I'll panel glue two similar pieces together and you won't be able to separate them without a torch. Trust me it is comical watching someone trying to do this.I would bet my 4runner you can't separate the glue joint. You study Ferrari's, I restore classic cars. I would also put my welds up against any of your welds.

What glue are you referring to ? Do you have photos of some of your work ?

That's a good tip to clean area very well and spray water. And try and catch the source of problem.

I though the roof drain goes on the passenger side ? My problem is on the driver side.

I Have a feeling that the rear seat belt bolt. The one that goes through the fender is the cause. Or the door rubber seal.

As for por15 I'd just like to lay it on the whole floor even if it's not rusted. I hear if you use their products to prep you can lay it on a none rusted area ? Is this true ? Will this add any protection to the floor ?

How hard is it to remove our carpet ?

Can you explain more about the welding vs glue.

This weekend I'll try and take the back seat out and move the CARPET so I can take better pics.