I keep flip flopping on suspension options.
- Thread starter Agent_Outside
- Start date
mrblah
Senior Member
it depends on speed your traveling and what type of terrain you plan on "speeding" in due to shock valving. My suspension has a very european GT firmness on road due to the kings valving, and working in conjunction with KDSS (which eliminating body roll). Offroad, It's pretty firm when going slow, but the faster you go and the crappier the terrain, the softer it feels. When I lower my tire pressure, I can go full retard on washboard roads and small woops, and it feels really composed. When I drive slower on those service roads, sometimes I can feel my teeth want to rattle out, so I drive faster, lol.
Icon's will have your standard valving (which is degressive (Sp)), which is pretty much the standard for on road cars. It will feel closest to your OEM ride but firmer.
You can't go wrong with either choices (and you probably wont notice a difference in normal everyday driving), so then it comes down to cost, ease of service locally, and customer service. I live in socal, so I choose Kings, because they are literally right next door, and pretty much everybody runs Kings in socal, so I was like "why not".
If you are just going to do roadtrip activities, (i mean overlanding buahahha), I would probably just do bilsteins or OME and heavy duty springs and be done with it. Mainly while they aren't rebuildable, they are easy to find and cheap to replace. So this is the part of what you want to do with your suspension.
If i'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me...lol.
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Looking to do the same. What's your opinion on going with their GS59-700 front struts and GS59-701 rear shocks instead of the Bilstein 5100's?
This thread has a lot of good info and am currently trying to figure out what type of lift i want to do as well to achieve a 3/2 lift. I am between the 6112/5160 combo with ome rear springs, king, or icon stage 2.
I think that all of these options would fit my needs(mostly road driving with occasional camping/hunting/fishing offroad). My main concern is maintenance. I read mixed reviews about ming or icon needing to be rebuilt with low mileage.
Would the bilstein setup outlast these in reliability? Or would the king ornicon route last longer without rebuild?
I think that all of these options would fit my needs(mostly road driving with occasional camping/hunting/fishing offroad). My main concern is maintenance. I read mixed reviews about ming or icon needing to be rebuilt with low mileage.
Would the bilstein setup outlast these in reliability? Or would the king ornicon route last longer without rebuild?
not sure, the dobinson stuff seems to be similar to the OME stuff whicih I hear rides stiff. I think I am going to keep the 6112 but switch to 5100's in the rear. I also spoke with eibach and they do sell the 1" rear lift spring now that matches the front spring of the 6112. I was told March 9th is my supposed ship date.
Agent_Outside
New member
So I thought I’d follow up on this. follow up on this. We’re getting close to end of the winter and with spring coming I’ve been gathering parts for the suspension overhaul I’m planning to do in May.
Vehicle -
2011 Toyota 4Runner Limited
Weight -
Full RCI 1/4” aluminum skid plates. RCI rock sliders to come after XREAS lines are removed from the frame rails. Variable loads in the vehicle but generally try to stay as light as possible when possible. I typically store under 50lbs of gear and equipment in the vehicle. I do some towing - Polaris RZR XP1000 on an open utility trailer. I have a heavy 2 convertible to 4 bike hitch mounted bike rack. In the 4 bike configuration with mountain bikes it’s probably in the 170-200 lb range leveraged out behind the axle on the hitch but it’s used much more often in the 2 bike configuration.
Vehicle usage -
It gets roughly 18-20K miles per year on it. It sees a lot of unpaved and washboard dirt and gravel. I don’t seek out rock crawling but it does occasionally happen when there things in the way. Lots of highway and winding roads, a lot mountain highway high speed curves. This is a full time 4WD model. We do a lot of road trips and camping or “overlanding” as the cool kids call in nowadays.
Goal of suspension upgrades -
On road comfort, stability around those high speed curves, nice and firm but plush ride on pavement and on washboard and dirt at consistent higher speeds (30-50 mph) for extend amounts of time. They suspension doesn’t need to be valved to comfortably handle them but it must not destroy itself on ruts, washouts, and some bigger bumps that you don’t see coming at speed. Roughly 2.5” front lift 2.0” rear lift while maintaining some rake and minimal side to side lean. Completely eliminate my shock overheating and fading problems, and I want long term durability and quite operation.
Wheels/tires -
4Runner TRD Pro 17” wheels with 275 K02s (will move up to 255/80/17 33’s as sone as I finish wear8ngmout the K02s) most of the year and stock 20” wheels with factory sized blizzak snow tires for ski season.
In the end I went with the following setup.
Vehicle -
2011 Toyota 4Runner Limited
Weight -
Full RCI 1/4” aluminum skid plates. RCI rock sliders to come after XREAS lines are removed from the frame rails. Variable loads in the vehicle but generally try to stay as light as possible when possible. I typically store under 50lbs of gear and equipment in the vehicle. I do some towing - Polaris RZR XP1000 on an open utility trailer. I have a heavy 2 convertible to 4 bike hitch mounted bike rack. In the 4 bike configuration with mountain bikes it’s probably in the 170-200 lb range leveraged out behind the axle on the hitch but it’s used much more often in the 2 bike configuration.
Vehicle usage -
It gets roughly 18-20K miles per year on it. It sees a lot of unpaved and washboard dirt and gravel. I don’t seek out rock crawling but it does occasionally happen when there things in the way. Lots of highway and winding roads, a lot mountain highway high speed curves. This is a full time 4WD model. We do a lot of road trips and camping or “overlanding” as the cool kids call in nowadays.
Goal of suspension upgrades -
On road comfort, stability around those high speed curves, nice and firm but plush ride on pavement and on washboard and dirt at consistent higher speeds (30-50 mph) for extend amounts of time. They suspension doesn’t need to be valved to comfortably handle them but it must not destroy itself on ruts, washouts, and some bigger bumps that you don’t see coming at speed. Roughly 2.5” front lift 2.0” rear lift while maintaining some rake and minimal side to side lean. Completely eliminate my shock overheating and fading problems, and I want long term durability and quite operation.
Wheels/tires -
4Runner TRD Pro 17” wheels with 275 K02s (will move up to 255/80/17 33’s as sone as I finish wear8ngmout the K02s) most of the year and stock 20” wheels with factory sized blizzak snow tires for ski season.
In the end I went with the following setup.
- King OEM front kit, 2.5” shock bodies, remote reservoirs, extended travel, standard springs, custom valved, 2.5” lift.
- JBA upper control arms that are caster corrected for lifted applications.
- King OEM rear kit, 2.5” shock bodies, remote reservoirs, custom length for a 2” lift, custom valved.
- Icon 2” lift rear springs with 10% increase in spring rate.
- Toytec 2” rear bump stop spacers.
RedSled
New member
I think you will be very happy with that setup, i have pretty close to your setup on mine, with a few different product changes.
Kings @ 2" with ome rear 2" springs.
Built Right uca's with bmc.
285/70/17 wildpeak M/Ts on Black TRD wheels.
After it settled in a little i had the front adjusted up another 1/2" just to take a little of the rake out.
Kings @ 2" with ome rear 2" springs.
Built Right uca's with bmc.
285/70/17 wildpeak M/Ts on Black TRD wheels.
After it settled in a little i had the front adjusted up another 1/2" just to take a little of the rake out.
