I need more front flex.

LINY4Runner

New member
My rear suspension flexes out with the LC coils and no sway bar, but even with the sway bar links removed, the front still doesn't flex as well as I want it to. What can I do to increase up-travel in the front?

My suspension setup is as follows:
Front: OME 882 coils & OME 90004 Sport Struts
Rear: Land Cruiser 9-wrap Coils & Skyjacker 0-2" Lift Shocks (for LC)
 
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My rear suspension flexes out with the LC coils and no sway bar, but even with the sway bar links removed, the front still doesn't flex as well as I want it to. What can I do to increase up-travel in the front?

My suspension setup is as follows:
Front: OME 882 coils & OME 90004 Sport Struts
Rear: Land Cruiser 9-wrap Coils & Skyjacker 0-2" Lift Shocks (for LC)

S.A.S.
:peace:
 
I have thought about trying different bump stops or possibly modding the frame where they hit but didn't want to be the Guinea pig. but really what could one gain befor tire rubbing starts.

IMG_0637-1.jpg~original
 
S.A.S.
:peace:

Dont mess with the bump stops, you need those to keep from over extending (or compressing) your struts. And you wont really see much of a differance anyways.

SAS is about the best option for more flex; but on the other had, you could get front and rear ARB lockers, and then flex doesn't really matter as much anymore! Other than the cool factor!
 
I have thought about trying different bump stops or possibly modding the frame where they hit but didn't want to be the Guinea pig. but really what could one gain before tire rubbing starts.

IMG_0637-1.jpg~original

Just like in this photo, adjusting the bumpstops wont do anything to get that passenger side wheel to drop like you would want, no matter what the driver side wheel is doing, ie IFS obviously.
 
All joking aside...

Camburg makes a long travel system that results in around 13" of front wheel travel, but there are drawbacks, including $$$$$$ and a large width increase.

Otherwise, uniball UCAs can be added to increase front wheel travel to around 9". Camburg or All Pro... very similar products.

Thats really about it... as jsmarine said, being locked all the way around lessens the importance of wheel travel outside of competitions. Locked F/R with 16" of rear travel (typical OME) and 9" in front should get you through EVERYTHING reasonable.

Take a close look at the picture above. Wheel travel puts more strain on CVs. Lots of wheel travel while under power could result in a driver who has lots of experience changing CVs. One could theoretically put enough strain on the CV from the hub flange to pull the CV out of the diff entirely, or break it.
 
I don't plan on locking the front, not with CV axles...however I am working on an e-locker for the rear, I still feel I need more travel in the front, I feel like there's more I can get out of this truck before resorting to a SAS...I will look into the UCA's, I was already considering them...how much of an increase in up-travel do they usually net? Anyone test them? Any toytec reps wanna weigh in?
 
I don't plan on locking the front, not with CV axles...however I am working on an e-locker for the rear, I still feel I need more travel in the front, I feel like there's more I can get out of this truck before resorting to a SAS...I will look into the UCA's, I was already considering them...how much of an increase in up-travel do they usually net? Anyone test them? Any toytec reps wanna weigh in?

I'm no expert, but all my research generall trends around 1/4" additional up travel and 3/4" additional down travel. They are relatively low on my priority list, but I will let you know when I install them.

Your CVs are actually some of the strongest out there. Just don't lock the front for some stuff. No locked in reverse while turning, no forward locked while tucked and wheel cut over hard. Try to use the locker in straighter applications. Some folks have added an LSD carrier to the front to aid in traction without being fully locked.

I think you will be surprised at the capability of your truck with a rear locker.

You will probably find yourself in the category of looking at body damage as the concern... not whether you can make it through...


Just sayin'

:)
 
I'm no expert, but all my research generall trends around 1/4" additional up travel and 3/4" additional down travel. They are relatively low on my priority list, but I will let you know when I install them.

that's all huh?
for $500?

pfft effff that!
 
Yeah, i think you are nutz :D The pics of the product look very different. The specs are basically the same and the requirements are also very similar but that probably because they are trying to do the same thing.
96000_kit.jpg
 

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Doh... should have looked at the pics, not just the specs.

Yeah, i think you are nutz :D The pics of the product look very different. The specs are basically the same and the requirements are also very similar but that probably because they are trying to do the same thing.
96000_kit.jpg

I see now! They are both different products... and both are attempting to put lipstick on a pig! :D
 
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I think you will be surprised at the capability of your truck with a rear locker.

You will probably find yourself in the category of looking at body damage as the concern... not whether you can make it through...


Just sayin'

:)
Don't try to polish up that turd any more than you already have, save any money you want to waste on the IFS(:repuke:) for a SAS.
 
I agree with the rest of the SAS crew. You're going to have to drop a small fortune on a LT setup, and eventually will want more flex than any available kit will give. Just spend the money once, SAS.
 
anyone know the price on those?

kinda looks like all down travel though...i wanna mash my front tire into the fender
 
You're looking at about $2000 to $2500+ for the LT kits. (At least thats what google said after a quick search.) Trust me, if you budget $3500 for an SAS, you're going to get what you're look for as far as stuffing your tires, as well as more reliable offroad performance.
 

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