I thought rear shock replacement was supposed to be easy.

Doing the fronts today. Came off without a hitch. But I can't get my spring compressors to squeeze the spring tight enough. It's bending and about to explode! These must be some tough springs. %$^& I hate to go to pay someone to take these off after I got so far. :redbrick:

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Doing the fronts today. Came off without a hitch. But I can't get my spring compressors to squeeze the spring tight enough. It's bending and about to explode! These must be some tough springs. %$^& I hate to go to pay someone to take these off after I got so far. :redbrick:

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I had 2 different style spring compressors, and determined I could not safely compress the spring enough either, so I broke down and took the spring/strut assembly to a shop and had them swap springs over for me. It sucked cause it cost about $100, but it got my truck back together same day. I'm used to working on small cars, and there is a LOT more power in that spring, don't take chances.
 
That is why I paid the extra $50.00 a side and had ToyTec assembly and ship me new front springs. That doesn't look good.
 
Well I got it done! :thanks: Thanks for all the help along the way.

I went to Autozone and used their Free Tool Loaner deal. They had a higher quality spring compressor kit that pulled straighter and easier than the junk I had.
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Back on the ground. Will test drive after a rest. I'm beat!
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Rear coils....

Stupid question as I've seen this done before but not done myself...

Do I need a spring compressor to install OME 906's in the rear? Does it make it easier? Or are there some recommendations and tricks some of you may be able to offer to make the task easier? What should I disconnect (besides the shocks and dropping the spare tire for more room) prior to swapping out the coils?

My 17yr old son and I are going to try and tackle the rear coils and shocks hopefully this weekend. '99 Limited 4x4 if that matters.

Thanks!
 
No way, I got my old 8 wraps in without a compressor and those are WAY taller.

just unbolt both sides lower shock bolt and slide shock off mount, You can leave the tops in unless you are replacing the shocks too. put the frame on jack stands and let the axle droop, push one side down and slide the coil into place. easy as pie
 
For the OME 906 coils, I followed this link just to get a visual years ago. It is for a 4th gen, but the process is the same: OME Suspension Install on 4Runner - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum. This is good for rear shocks as well if you are doing them also.

Some hints:
The lower shock bolt torques back to 47ft/lbs. 6 ton jack stands make lifting the frame easier (I'd recommend anyone with a 4wd 4runner have at least one pair). I actually took the drums off and the spare down for more room and less weight. Be careful of the brake line on the axle. Note how the spring rests on the axle. Take your time, you're not working for a NASCAR pit crew. Note A is for the driver's side.


Post pics of before and after. Cheers.
 
I know it's an old thread, but very relevant. Here's how I held mine. Worked great
0bf074dc154f53ec0e7a9e96a8da1e93.jpg


Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 
I know it's an old thread, but very relevant. Here's how I held mine. Worked great
Not so relevant compared to the 3rd gen shock that is mounted inboard of the frame. Unless you have a body lift, you can't get the the shock top from the wheel well.

-Charlie
 
Not so relevant compared to the 3rd gen shock that is mounted inboard of the frame. Unless you have a body lift, you can't get the the shock top from the wheel well.

-Charlie
Sorry about that. I was having trouble with mine and found this thread via search. I didn't realize it was from 3rd gen. Just trying to help.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 
Not so relevant compared to the 3rd gen shock that is mounted inboard of the frame. Unless you have a body lift, you can't get the the shock top from the wheel well.

-Charlie

Sure you can! Just drop the frame! :gun4::rofl::dancin::drummer:

Ju3N2wR2n3oo3yu05l78JbgR7HiEmrtNAqVOXNSRKo-517dulozn90LuuGeuI08jpOGs0CxKX-d0qbsnGoL079Wmn17R5YKbFJbaqRElok3qmuP-yy7uI8ELOrZarxFVes91GKD6rwBEYbt688mca67DYcQOXQ5G42GUMdlZOrJIT12dFlaibCUIkj18ieLPus0H25Jeouy9MtJf_DDigM2xLn7n6Wtm2hHNeAlW-W30yjXkFWsEMssoieQ49MKkEkTUjpVqB3NOfUi0uXYe3FGoXteJaKy6o9mpEyiORRitOj914JT89GBxpONLQaeiyKeYxRsAXlAMXdKRpRVpVmkUnZ6rW_zbT7DaEGIvjUZKedLVWzEmrZdUDK3QasAOU-i3yPa2orzB7gmgxekUux0snIA1MXN23k0m7nidcXKjHSqgiOQyfyjgnp_2BMLAHCj84_lybI_j-1Dd4BqjK50qROasu-hWfh0yMpOg9agngeLknCrM9ENg_d9s7fzccbRnMZ9MipxaAb14PKsxiHPH11b13H-7SugqBXui9CqufZi2F6iXFEWkKq-5JWPa4-Lf9SKfdfzrP_IJTuK0BBgmm1ZToGknVnre_surptCZnfeS=w1260-h945-no


I don't recommend it, however.
 
Strange, I have changed mine out twice now and have always used a ratchet and socket on the top. Its a tight fit, but works.
Keeping the shock shaft from turning is the hard part..
 
Did mine last month, I removed the tires and set the suspension drop as far as possible. For me, the passenger side was a bigger PIA, but both sides are miserable. I ended up using a pipe wrench to collapse, then clamp, onto the upper shock body and used that to turn everything. I had a ratchet/socket on top that I fished in through the wheel well opening. I just held the ratchet still, using the pipe wrench to turn and re-set on the shock body until the old corroded stud snapped off. I was working in a parking lot, so this was my best option. If you can get the truck on a lift, life would be much easier.
 
Strange, I have changed mine out twice now and have always used a ratchet and socket on the top. Its a tight fit, but works.
Keeping the shock shaft from turning is the hard part..

+1.

Deep well Craftsman socket and standard Craftsman ratchet fit fine, and made it an easy install.
As for keeping the shaft from spinning,the KYBs I installed have a metal shield that's welded to the shaft, so I just held that with one hand and worked the ratchet with the other. I think the torque spec is in the 50-60 ft/lb range -- not super critical in this application.

Edit: as for removal, I took the advice of others here: remove lower shock bolt, and remove shock from lower mount. Grab the shock from the bottom and move it as far as you can in any direction, causing the top to bend and ultimately break off. Couldn't have been easier. Might have taken all of 60 seconds once the bottom was free from the mount.
 
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