If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!

[TOPTEAM]

Thank you for this post...I was wondering why it was so difficult to get the supplied bolts on when I initially installed the TRD Skid Plate. After seeing your post I chased the threading per your instructions and now the bolts go on like butter!

Cheers for the post! :cheers:

 

[arehman11]

Just did this yesterday, worked like a charm and there was a ton of gunk removed!

 

[DeepSea]

Awesome write-up bro :cheers:

 

[1000MPH]

It's a good idea for all of us that work on our trucks to have handy the correct sized taps and spare fasteners on hand for the plates. It's just the nature of these types of covers that you can easily misalign while installing and damage threads; even if you are careful to start all of them first. Ask me how I know.

Non-TRD fasteners:

SKID PLATE BOLT 9008011373
LOWER COVER BOLT 9010906330

 

[jbgrunner]

TRD skid plate installed!

I just wanted to thank everyone who has posted to this forum. It made my install go flawlessly! When I took the old guard off I noticed the old bolts had some sort of loctite compound on the threads. Also the old bolts had a narrow tip to them (See photo). I found the thread tap at NAPA and reamed the 4 bolt holes to clean the loctite out and fully thread the hole at the proper size. I would not use the old bolts! The new bolts for the back two holes look like they need to be used to reach all the way through the mounting brackets. I applied some anti-seize compound to all the bolts although I'm not sure it is necessary if you ream the holes with the tap. Thanks to all for the help... much appreciated!

 

[raptore]

Yep....started noticing same issue about 1 yr ago and been very careful when reinstalling the skid since then. This weekend, one bolt wouldn't screw in properly, so new tap is on order.

 

[Good Nite]

I'm trying to remove my OEM TRD skid plate before bringing it to the dealer for it's first oil change.

Looks like I can just crawl under the car and remove all 4 bolts without the 4runner being on a lift.

My question is if I remove the last bolt from the skid plate is it just going to fall off the frame if I don't try to catch it or is it hooked on somewhere to the frame where I can remove all the bolts and unhook the skid?

 

[Cymon]

I'm trying to remove my OEM TRD skid plate before bringing it to the dealer for it's first oil change.

Looks like I can just crawl under the car and remove all 4 bolts without the 4runner being on a lift.

My question is if I remove the last bolt from the skid plate is it just going to fall off the frame if I don't try to catch it or is it hooked on somewhere to the frame where I can remove all the bolts and unhook the skid?

Yes, watch your head!

 

[indawire]

Yes, and never sneeze really is your friend so put it on before reinstalling. Just coat the threads evenly, no need to slather it on.

 

[zzdocxx]

Great thread, who knew?

:wave:

 

[zzdocxx]

Yes, and never sneeze really is your friend so put it on before reinstalling. Just coat the threads evenly, no need to slather it on.

Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.

:whipping2

Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.

:cheers:

Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.

Addendum:

While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?

 

[Cymon]

Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.

:whipping2

Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.

:cheers:

Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.

Addendum:

While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?

I feel they are comparable. The Toyota TRD aluminum skid is 1/4" aluminum and pretty stout. Same thickness as my RCI skids, just a slightly different grade of aluminum. If I did not have the TRD skid and my plan was to go full aluminum skid plates I would just go RCI or Hefty Fab front to back as the front skid in both is larger and a one piece unit. If you have a TRD skid already, the RCI skids fit with a transition skid plate to create the same effect as the front RCI skid, but you miss out on the service openings for oil changes. Also if you get the transition skid you may need an additional 1/4 rubber spacer as it does sit pretty close to the front differential and it will give you some breathing room.

Here are some pics to what I'm talking about in my MFD thread (post 81).
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/222282-cymons-weekend-warrior-mfd-thread-6.html

 

[zzdocxx]

Thanks for that bit of information.

:tea:

 

[lukeskywalker]

For those who are thinking of installing the TRD skid, I am almost certain you can reuse the rear bolts from the existing skid. I believe this is what I did and I have had no issues with stuck bolts.

YES! That's what i did. I was sitting there looking at both bolts, and I'm like "nah" I'm using the old bolts. No problems since.

 

[Judd94]

I did my install tonight. Ordered my parts off Amazon, exactly what the OP got. Put oil on the tap thread before the starting the fronts. The back two bolts I put oil on the tap then after starting I came in from the top and poured some oil in. One pass took care of all the hunk and The second pass both came out clean. I used the supplied longer rear bolts. The hardest part I found was holding up and threading the front bolts.

On a side note, I was really annoyed that I’ve only had one oil change at dealer cause it’s free and the had already stripped one bolt holding the original plate. Wasn’t even able to go in but halfway. Absolutely f**king pathetic. Good thing I didn’t need it anymore.

 

[Kistle]

For whatever it's worth, I just did this on my stock 2011 SR5 and the skid plate bolts are M8x1.25x20mm. I have been changing my own oil since new, and always hated the way the threads on the stock bolts got flattened. I have always been able to get them installed and torqued, but there is no doubt that this is a weak spot.

Finally ran a chase tap through body mounted nuts, and replaced the fasteners with Grade 8.8 M8x1.25x20mm stainless bolts. Just thought I would post this for anyone with the older? bolt/nut sizes. I was surprised to find them as M8 after reading this thread.

Thanks,

JA

 

[TRUSTYAXE]

Getting ready to do this, does anyone know the part number for the OEM bolts?

 

[zxpwr350]

Installed TRD skid plate over the weekend and had issue removing one of the front bolts (stripped the bolt head). I was thinking the shop who installed my diff drop over torqued the bolt. Luckily, this topic is again on the top page as it seem to be a common issue, I almost wrote the shop a negative review on Yelp.

Anyway, I was able to remove the bolt using an extractor and install the skid plate. I will be running a the tap before my first oil change.

Thanks for this great info!

 

[zerowkul98]

Ordering mine this week! I dont have the ability to get under my runner to tap holes, so it looks like i'll be re-using the old bolts.

 

[zerowkul98]

Just checking in on this topic with you....still have no problems with re-using the old bolts? I am planning on ordering a TRD skid today and all the "tap this! do that! dont use this! this was stripped! oh sh*t!" talk was freaking me out.
I am not getting under my ride and tapping out factory threads unless it is absolutely necessary.