If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!

[repo]

Oh yeah, cleaning the threads first is good advice.
There’s a recent thread on tap sizes and [MENTION=9502]repo[/MENTION] posted about using a thread chaser/restorer instead of taps. Much less destructive.
Another tool I didn’t know I needed until I saw them.
I ended up buying a set of these...
Amazon.com: Lang 6 Pc. Metric Thread Restorer Tap Set (LNG-2588): Automotive

Yeah I have that set but the one that does bolts too. I clean dirt out of the hole first with compressed air, wd40, whatever and q-tips although the gun bore brush is a much better idea. Then run the restorer through with a drop of oil to clean up rust and burs. I've used a tap before but it makes me cringe because it always takes metal off the threads. The Lang chaser is much more gentle. I back it off after a turn or so like you would with a tap to clear any debris. Then put some anti-sieze on the bolt and don't have to worry about it again.

If it's a bolt where I'm careful about the torque spec I degrease it afterwards. Anti-seize can affect torque value because it's technically a lube but for skid bolts and stuff it doesn't matter I just go by feel.

The only time I use the taps now is to cut threads a size up when the threads have been stripped or something like that. The Lang restorer if definitely worth it IMO it's faster and easier and the right tool for the job. I don't know the situation exactly with the TRD skid so if you actually have to cut deeper threads the the tap would be the thing to use. The Lang set is great for cleaning up after cutting with a tap too.

 

[Saker]

……..I don't know the situation exactly with the TRD skid so if you actually have to cut deeper threads the the tap would be the thing to use. The Lang set is great for cleaning up after cutting with a tap too.

So, here is the deal with using the tap when installing the TRD Skid bolts.
Some if not most have experienced rust and debris in either bolt locations. When I first installed my skid on my 14, I encountered a lot of resistance when installing the rear bolts. Hence using a quality tap (and a die for the bolts) to chase and get the rust/debris that was in the portion of the threads the OEM skid bolts did not reach.
So that’s why I made the post that is referred to in the thread by [MENTION=120701]Cymon[/MENTION].

You could always go a step further and do this:
TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021

 

[repo]

So, here is the deal with using the tap when installing the TRD Skid bolts.
Some if not most have experienced rust and debris in either bolt locations. When I first installed my skid on my 14, I encountered a lot of resistance when installing the rear bolts. Hence using a quality tap (and a die for the bolts) to chase and get the rust/debris that was in the portion of the threads the OEM skid bolts did not reach.
So that’s why I made the post that is referred to in the thread by [MENTION=120701]Cymon[/MENTION].

You could always go a step further and do this:
TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021

Didnt read through whole thread so likely brought up somewhere already but the original skid bolts are self-tapping, but from the pic it looks like the TRD ones are regular bolts? Which would explain the resistance with the last couple of turns with the TRD, and causing issues if it wasn't tapped a little deeper before initial install. I'd use the restorer for periodic follow ups personally. The simplest solution of course would be to buy self-tapping bolts of the appropriate size (if you can find them), unless I got it wrong.

 

[Saker]

Didnt read through whole thread so likely brought up somewhere already but the original skid bolts are self-tapping, but from the pic it looks like the TRD ones are regular bolts? Which would explain the resistance with the last couple of turns with the TRD, and causing issues if it wasn't tapped a little deeper before initial install. I'd use the restorer for periodic follow ups personally. The simplest solution of course would be to buy self-tapping bolts of the appropriate size (if you can find them), unless I got it wrong.

The threads are already there. They were full of debris/rust. Once chased with a tap there is no reason to continue to chase with a tap or thread restorer unless you somehow cross thread your bolts.

YMMV

 

[cbaty08]

FYI - my 2021 (Feb 25th Build Date) had the front bolts and washers "built in" to the plate - they are NOT removeable.

So, for the newer models, there is not only no worry in missing bolts, but you don't have to fox around with the spacers in the front.

 

[Saker]

FYI - my 2021 (Feb 25th Build Date) had the front bolts and washers "built in" to the plate - they are NOT removeable.

So, for the newer models, there is not only no worry in missing bolts, but you don't have to fox around with the spacers in the front.

So, are you referring to a TRD skid plate that came on your 21 TRD Pro?

If so, this thread was for installing a TRD Skid Plate on T4R’s that came with the stamped plates. (Non-TRD skid plate.)

So, unless they changed the skid plate just very recently, I would be certain they are the same as the one I purchased in October/November of last year.
The bolts are in the front location with a spacer on the inner side of the plate, held on by a retaining washer.
That’s how they have been made since 2014, both versions of the TRD Skid Plates for the 4Runner & FJ Cruisers.

So, if they differ, please post a photo !

 

[Beach5150]

There are two versions of the skid plate.

The older one is Part #PT938-00140. It is the version then did not come with the red TRD inlay. It only had the plain indented TRD letters. People were buying stick-on inlays for those.

The current version is Part# PTR60-89190. It has the thick red TRD inlays and holes in the skid plate to help retain them (the older version does not have these holes.)
This version also has the front bolts and a spacer pre-installed and retained with a clip. It looks like later runs of the first version may have had these retained too.

I only know this because I had been looking for the first version for my 17 Off-Road so I could put a black TRD inlay instead of red. This version is getting hard to find, so when I saw one listed on Amazon, I grabbed it.
This unscrupulous seller, however, listed the older part number version with he appropriate plain photo, then sent me the newer version.

So, are you referring to a TRD skid plate that came on your 21 TRD Pro?

If so, this thread was for installing a TRD Skid Plate on T4R’s that came with the stamped plates. (Non-TRD skid plate.)

So, unless they changed the skid plate just very recently, I would be certain they are the same as the one I purchased in October/November of last year.
The bolts are in the front location with a spacer on the inner side of the plate, held on by a retaining washer.
That’s how they have been made since 2014, both versions of the TRD Skid Plates for the 4Runner & FJ Cruisers.

So, if they differ, please post a photo !

 

[Saker]

There are two versions of the skid plate.

The older one is Part #PT938-00140. It is the version then did not come with the red TRD inlay. It only had the plain indented TRD letters. People were buying stick-on inlays for those.

The current version is Part# PTR60-89190. It has the thick red TRD inlays and holes in the skid plate to help retain them (the older version does not have these holes.)
This version also has the front bolts and a spacer pre-installed and retained with a clip. It looks like later runs of the first version may have had these retained too.

I only know this because I had been looking for the first version for my 17 Off-Road so I could put a black TRD inlay instead of red. This version is getting hard to find, so when I saw one listed on Amazon, I grabbed it.
This unscrupulous seller, however, listed the older part number version with he appropriate plain photo, then sent me the newer version.

[MENTION=164197]Beach5150[/MENTION],
So yes.... I had both versions of the skids...You can see an original one on my 2014 and the later version on my 2021.
Both of these skid plates had the bolts held in the EXACT same fashion.
Also, I tried to get one of the older ones as well for my 2021 and had "zero" success finding one.

 

[dflowerz]

Thanks for your post! I have a new Pro and took the plate off for an oil and filter change and yeah those two back bolts get really tight. I put some anti-seize on them but for sure am going to tap them as you advised. I can see how easy it might be for those things to lock up over time. Yikes!

 

[PierreP4]

I just installed mine today on my 21. Gun solvent and a 9MM bore brush got all the gunk out and there was no need to tap the holes.

 

[dezertbomber]

I have a 2010 and the rear longer bolts supplied with the skid are too long, they literally stop before the smooth shank is up past the skid.

I just used the slightly shorter bolts and it works just fine, but I guess we'll see next oil change how they unthread...

 

[Saker]

I have a 2010 and the rear longer bolts supplied with the skid are too long, they literally stop before the smooth shank is up past the skid.

I just used the slightly shorter bolts and it works just fine, but I guess we'll see next oil change how they unthread...

Hey [MENTION=451112]dezertbomber[/MENTION],

Check the pics in this thread. If your mounts appear to be the same, then they may have some trash in the threads.

TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021

 

[dezertbomber]

Hey [MENTION=451112]dezertbomber[/MENTION],

Check the pics in this thread. If your mounts appear to be the same, then they may have some trash in the threads.

TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021

Thanks Saker, but it is a hard stop, like when a bolt hits a flat surface past the threaded hole, not like when threads get grindy (is that a word? ) and experience some resistance.

Though I haven't read through all of the discussions on this, I find it bizarre there even needs to be so much on this issue.

I guess my number one question is, why are those rear bolts so long?

 

[Saker]

Thanks Saker, but it is a hard stop, like when a bolt hits a flat surface past the threaded hole, not like when threads get grindy (is that a word? ) and experience some resistance.

Though I haven't read through all of the discussions on this, I find it bizarre there even needs to be so much on this issue.

I guess my number one question is, why are those rear bolts so long?

Thanks for replying, I was just wondering if there was something there or maybe different design causing the issue.
Maybe the wrong bolts were included…. anything can happen, right?

 

[Rayrayy]

Just ordered one online, thanks for the post.

 

[osugsxr]

Rethreaded this years ago and today decide to look under the 4runner since I may start doing my own oil changes. One of the back bolts was only half way in. It wouldnt have fallen out , I'll have to clean it out and maybe rethread it.

 

[Saker]

Rethreaded this years ago and today decide to look under the 4runner since I may start doing my own oil changes. One of the back bolts was only half way in. It wouldnt have fallen out , I'll have to clean it out and maybe rethread it.

If it was torqued, it shouldn’t have backed out.
Might get a split washer of spring washer if it continues happen or check torque from time to time.

 

[osugsxr]

If it was torqued, it shouldn’t have backed out.
Might get a split washer of spring washer if it continues happen or check torque from time to time.

I tried tightening it more and it wouldnt budge, unless i took an impact wrench to it. I rethreaded it and cleaned it out and it went in no issues.

On a side note I had an alignment done about 2k miles ago and I found a pair of pliers locked on still.

 

[Saker]

I tried tightening it more and it wouldnt budge, unless i took an impact wrench to it. I rethreaded it and cleaned it out and it went in no issues.

On a side note I had an alignment done about 2k miles ago and I found a pair of pliers locked on still.

Sounds like the bolt was cross threaded, maybe.

Did you have this work done at an independent shop or a dealership?

 

[T-Runner]

Anyone got pix of this skid plate on a TRD Sport, Limited or 10-13 5th gen? Contemplating how it would look on my TRD Sport.