If You Off-road Your 5th Gen with P-metric Tires Please Vote
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kcdehart
New member
Also not 5th gen, but I did a trail with a couple guys when I first bought my LT rated General Grabber AT2s. One of those guys had a Subaru Forester on C or D load General Grabber AT2s. He had a blowout in a section where my truck got through fine...I realize there are a lot of other factors, but it reassured me that I made the right choice with tires.
1engineer
Moderator
"Off Road" has many connotations my friend. The answer you seek is murky. I could safely say that 95% of people going on a dirt road wouldn't have a problem with P tires. Conversely, I could say that 95% of the people driving through the rough deserts of Nevada would have a problem with P tires. You need E out there.
You just have to choose what off road you really mean. I run P tires but am rarely in a place where E would be better. We have dirt and little dull rocks here. Out west they have sharp rocks and thorns.
Also airing down is another consideration and I'm not talking about beach sand.
And the biggest consideration is expense. Initially you will pay 30-50% more for E versus P. In addition you will lose between 5% up to 10% efficiency, especially if you drive around town a lot.
Example: You drive 15K/yr and a lot of that is regular roads. You lose 2mpg because you with up size E.
You will spend an additional $200 a YEAR for the privilege of running E tires. Its not hard to change a flat every now and then, especially for that money. I figured I have saved around $2500 in the past 10 years running P tires. With that said, if I were off roading in certain sections in the US I would be running E tires as a rule because P just wouldn't last.
You just have to choose what off road you really mean. I run P tires but am rarely in a place where E would be better. We have dirt and little dull rocks here. Out west they have sharp rocks and thorns.
Also airing down is another consideration and I'm not talking about beach sand.
And the biggest consideration is expense. Initially you will pay 30-50% more for E versus P. In addition you will lose between 5% up to 10% efficiency, especially if you drive around town a lot.
Example: You drive 15K/yr and a lot of that is regular roads. You lose 2mpg because you with up size E.
You will spend an additional $200 a YEAR for the privilege of running E tires. Its not hard to change a flat every now and then, especially for that money. I figured I have saved around $2500 in the past 10 years running P tires. With that said, if I were off roading in certain sections in the US I would be running E tires as a rule because P just wouldn't last.
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Vinsil
New member
True.
Out here we have sharp rocks, tree roots, ect and tires get torn up. Even our gravel roads have pretty sharp junk on them (active logging roads) that can ruin your day in a hurry.
But I've never been back beyond Utah so out east maybe different.
Airing down is yet another hardship on tires.
Out here we have sharp rocks, tree roots, ect and tires get torn up. Even our gravel roads have pretty sharp junk on them (active logging roads) that can ruin your day in a hurry.
But I've never been back beyond Utah so out east maybe different.
Airing down is yet another hardship on tires.
Ron4RNevada
New member
First: I got rid of my P tires the first week I had the truck.
Second: I'm in Nevada - nothing but very large, very sharp rocks on very steep trails.
Third:Lot's of sand too and under the sand a lot of times are the same big sharp rocks that you can't see.
Fourth: I have even had C rated tires in the past - NO GOOD. Before the tread wears out they all get replaced with side wall tears (Thankfully both sets had road hazard warranty. Thank you Les Schwab Tires)
Fifth: In the last few years I have run nothing but E rated.
No I did not vote in this poll.
Second: I'm in Nevada - nothing but very large, very sharp rocks on very steep trails.
Third:Lot's of sand too and under the sand a lot of times are the same big sharp rocks that you can't see.
Fourth: I have even had C rated tires in the past - NO GOOD. Before the tread wears out they all get replaced with side wall tears (Thankfully both sets had road hazard warranty. Thank you Les Schwab Tires)
Fifth: In the last few years I have run nothing but E rated.
No I did not vote in this poll.
Cymon
New member
I've survived Rausch Creek and many trails and off road parks here in Florida (but that's Florida, not the desert SW) with the stock Dunlops. That being said my next set of tires will likely be the LT version just because I'm tired of holding my breath every time out.
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I have a 4th gen, but hopefully you don't mind me adding my opinion/ experience.
I run P-rated Michelin LTX MS2. 95% of my driving is on paved roads, but I drive on plenty of dirt roads and some 4wd trails that are a challenge for a stock 4th gen. I intentionally decided to take my chances when I bought the tires since I don't do much off road driving. I didn't even buy the road hazard protection since it's a bad deal unless I manage to blow out more than one tire. If I did more off road driving, or if I wanted to do any off road mods like lift and armor, I'd certainly go with LT rated tires.
I never air down, and so far I've never had to. If I was stuck I'd try it. On one trip last year I drove 100+ miles on dirt, driving as fast as road conditions allowed. The roads varied from perfectly smooth dirt where I was doing 50+ mph to rough/ sharp rocks where I obviously went a lot slower. There was also 1000 miles round trip of highway driving to get there.
I run P-rated Michelin LTX MS2. 95% of my driving is on paved roads, but I drive on plenty of dirt roads and some 4wd trails that are a challenge for a stock 4th gen. I intentionally decided to take my chances when I bought the tires since I don't do much off road driving. I didn't even buy the road hazard protection since it's a bad deal unless I manage to blow out more than one tire. If I did more off road driving, or if I wanted to do any off road mods like lift and armor, I'd certainly go with LT rated tires.
I never air down, and so far I've never had to. If I was stuck I'd try it. On one trip last year I drove 100+ miles on dirt, driving as fast as road conditions allowed. The roads varied from perfectly smooth dirt where I was doing 50+ mph to rough/ sharp rocks where I obviously went a lot slower. There was also 1000 miles round trip of highway driving to get there.
old.ink
New member
P tires
I have ran 3 set of 35'' tires and one 37'' in my last 3 jeeps (XJ, TJ and JKU), all LT tires. 1x Km, 1x Km2 (37'') and 2x Duratracs. I had blowed 3 tires, 2 duratracs and the 37'' km2. Duratracs were LT D rated on 3 ply, not strong at all. Now, with my new 4runner, im running P 33'' Falken AT3W which is 4 ply and 0 issue for now. To take in consideration, I don't off road/rock crawler like before, im now more into overlanding/expeditions. Im very surprise that I have a P rated with 4 ply compare to D rated duratracs on 3 ply...
I have ran 3 set of 35'' tires and one 37'' in my last 3 jeeps (XJ, TJ and JKU), all LT tires. 1x Km, 1x Km2 (37'') and 2x Duratracs. I had blowed 3 tires, 2 duratracs and the 37'' km2. Duratracs were LT D rated on 3 ply, not strong at all. Now, with my new 4runner, im running P 33'' Falken AT3W which is 4 ply and 0 issue for now. To take in consideration, I don't off road/rock crawler like before, im now more into overlanding/expeditions. Im very surprise that I have a P rated with 4 ply compare to D rated duratracs on 3 ply...
Saker
Senior Member
Off road:
If you consider driving from the highway to a asphalt parking lot thru some limestone with my OEM "P" rated dunflops and getting a sharp limestone to totally destroy one, then yes!
Would I take them off road, if I still had them.... NO!
just one mans opinion.....
propain
New member
I've survived Rausch Creek using 5th Gen stock P rated Nitto tires. Did some Rock crawling, and went through muddy rivers without issues, the tires performed above my expectations. Did not air down, they had stock air pressure.
Home was about 3+hrs away, it drove smooth on highway. Didnt know i had a tree stuck in my catalytic converter but thats another story :scared:
Home was about 3+hrs away, it drove smooth on highway. Didnt know i had a tree stuck in my catalytic converter but thats another story :scared:
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Salvo Jimmy
Member
Yep, "It all depends upon the meaning oh the word is" (substitute off-road for is). My off road is beach sand on Bodie, Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands in NC and for 50+ years have never used anything but P. They are actually better for my application than a hard aggressive tread tire because, when properly aired down, they don't tend to dig into the sand.
Vinsil
New member
Let me add this part. This is an opinion of course and YMMV.
If you don't need to air down for traction, it's pretty easy going. Dirt roads, easy dry trails, etc.
Another part...those that haven't or don't....try it sometime. The added traction and floatation will not only be easier on your truck in MOST cases (i.e., not going all full throttle assaults on obstacles trying to use tire speed to make up for lack of traction/floatation) but will make your experience that much more enjoyable and less.....stressful.
Again just a random opinion on off-roading. :rockon:
If you don't need to air down for traction, it's pretty easy going. Dirt roads, easy dry trails, etc.
Another part...those that haven't or don't....try it sometime. The added traction and floatation will not only be easier on your truck in MOST cases (i.e., not going all full throttle assaults on obstacles trying to use tire speed to make up for lack of traction/floatation) but will make your experience that much more enjoyable and less.....stressful.
Again just a random opinion on off-roading. :rockon:
honda250xtitan
New member
took my stock trail off road this past weekend to go camping in the mountains north of phoenix. all 5 miles of dirt road that hadn't been maintained all winter (got to use 4hi in two spots due to snow/mud) had me pretty worried.
the extra "200$ a year" of savings is not worth it IMO based on looks alone, not to even mention piece of mind. I'll be going with Toyo RT's or BFG K02's ASAP.
But no, i didn't have a blow out. lol
the extra "200$ a year" of savings is not worth it IMO based on looks alone, not to even mention piece of mind. I'll be going with Toyo RT's or BFG K02's ASAP.
But no, i didn't have a blow out. lol
mybabydaddy
New member
I just posted a few weeks ago about Barnwell Mtn in E. TX on P-rated Nittos. I did air down on those to about 24lbs after some online researching.... but it wasn't for traction, it was so I didn't blow out on the hundreds of rocks we drove over. I realize I'm a noobie off-road guy, but I'm a lifelong car and truck guy who's not incredibly stupid.... and I will stand by what I said in my original post.... I don't advise it for rocky trail terrain, but dang if I wasn't impressed by how those (Nitto) tires performed. I don't even have any "tears" in the treads that I can recall. Now then, I will add that my butt was puckered for a large percentage of our time on the trails, mainly for my tires. I have a set of stock trail rims still in my garage and am currently looking for used LT tires to throw on them for trail weekends... but if I didn't still have those extra rims, I would probably keep chancing the P-rated tires. Again, not advising it, but since I'm 97% on pavement, it just makes more sense (for me).
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delloro
New member
What car takes 265 70R 17 tires?
Cymon
New member
This is exactly how I have survived with the stock tires for so long...I usually air down to about 22psi on anything more then basic dry dirt roads/trails.
Jetboy
New member
What's a blow out? Do you mean a flat? An unfixable flat? Sidewall tear?
I've had one flat on my P285/70/17's. I would not buy LT tires for my mixed use nor do I particularly want them. I would use them if I buy a second set of wheels/tires for offroad only. A P285/70/17 is rated for more load than an LT265/70/17. I prefer the softer more pliable casing for the 95% of my miles that are highway.
I've had one flat on my P285/70/17's. I would not buy LT tires for my mixed use nor do I particularly want them. I would use them if I buy a second set of wheels/tires for offroad only. A P285/70/17 is rated for more load than an LT265/70/17. I prefer the softer more pliable casing for the 95% of my miles that are highway.
I came really close to getting P255/75 17 Goodyear Duratracs. Significantly lighter than even c-rated tires. Ended up instead with c-rated coopers, mainly due to being hesitant the cut resistance and that Duratracs already have a bad reputation for cuts.
That being said, only tire i've ever had a sidewall cut on was d-rated LT...
That being said, only tire i've ever had a sidewall cut on was d-rated LT...
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