IFS Uprgrades?

[MENTION=77310]BrandonF[/MENTION] I remeasured marking the center of the hub with a marker.
PF:21 5/8
DF:21 1/2
PR: 21 5/8
DR: 21 5/8
Diff: 9 1/2
I have no fender flares if that matters.
 
[MENTION=77310]BrandonF[/MENTION] I remeasured marking the center of the hub with a marker.
PF:21 5/8
DF:21 1/2
PR: 21 5/8
DR: 21 5/8
Diff: 9 1/2
I have no fender flares if that matters.
I stand corrected. You can lift the rear higher than 23" without problems, but for the front, you should still stay under 23". I currently am at 22.75" in the front and about 24.5" in the rear. I am very happy with the overall height and stance. I like having the rear 1.5-2" higher than the front. It looks right IMO and you won't end up with a saggy rear end once you load up your gear.

Most advertised lift heights seem to based on more standard stock heights of 20-20.5" hub to fender. If you decide to go for a lift, be aware of this. A 3" lift will probably only give you 1.5-2" max over your current height.
 
Most advertised lift heights seem to based on more standard stock heights of 20-20.5" hub to fender. If you decide to go for a lift, be aware of this. A 3" lift will probably only give you 1.5-2" max over your current height.

Yes I am aware, actually asked that question on this board. I am looking to get the toytec ultimate. Since it is adjustable and I can adjust it without taking it off.
 
Yes I am aware, actually asked that question on this board. I am looking to get the toytec ultimate. Since it is adjustable and I can adjust it without taking it off.

The toytec ultimate is definitely a good kit. I went the poor-mans route and pieced together my lift with tundra fronts and land cruiser rears.
 
The toytec ultimate is definitely a good kit. I went the poor-mans route and pieced together my lift with tundra fronts and land cruiser rears.

Yeah I thoufht about piecing it together but sitting at 21.5~ I am happy with that for now. I have no major rear sag. So ill save the money and upgrade other things for now.
 
Yeah I thoufht about piecing it together but sitting at 21.5~ I am happy with that for now. I have no major rear sag. So ill save the money and upgrade other things for now.

Thats a good call. The only real benefit from my lift over stock is the greatly increased travel in the rear suspension. The lift in the front is really just to keep up with the height of the rear suspension. I haven't gained any real performance or travel by simply jamming a bigger coilover between my control arms in the front. Sure, the extra ground clearance is good, but high clearance steel bumpers and a smooth undercarriage (from after market full length skid plates) make a way bigger difference in this department. A low, stable rig and good line choice will win in almost all circumstances.
 
I wouldn't run a 12,000 pound winch unless you replace the rope. A winch that strong will normally have a rope strong enough to go with it, and that's strong enough to tear itself right off your truck. You want the winch to fail before the mount does. I'd go 10,000 at most, 8 or 9 would be better.

Do you live in West Valley? I'm trying to remember if I've seen your truck around.

I've been in West Valley a little bit. I live in Bountiful.
 
I already did and I just lowered to front to 23" today

I was afraid I was going to have the issues you are having.
After extensive research on this site all winter I decided to do All-Pro UCA's, OEM LBJ's & OEM OTRE's while installing my lift. You're gonna have the front ripped apart anyway.
I also went with the 2nd perch instead on the 3rd on my front Billies.
The first day I drove it my D/S CV inner boot lost it's grease but the boot didn't split. I replaced the CV with a NEW (not rebuilt) Napa Maxlife.
I'm going to re-boot the old one & save it for when/if the D/S CV fails.

All of the info you need is on this site to do the lift right the first time.
 

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