I'm doing timing belt myself. need advice

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kacper

New member
Hello everyone!

Long weekend ahead so i decided to do my timing belt. I've got kit from amazon.
I have 04 V8 with 138000 km on it.
I split work for a 2 days because I don't need the car .

Today I just removed radiator ,fan and timing belt cover.
Timing belt has lots of cracks so it was the right moment to get this thing replace :)

when I removed all hoses from the radiator I have had little leak from AT lines about 100 ml of fluid is gone. How I can add fluid to the transmission after I'll finish the belt service? What type should i use ?

Is this small amount of fluid will cause any shifting problems? I looked at transmission and there is no dip stick.

i don't have mechanical skills so I'm happy with that what I did today. Tomorrow will proceed to remove old belt ,pulleys and tensioner. Also want to replace water pump.

Do you guys have any tips for me how to do this job proper without problems?
 
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What you mean ?:)

I had a problems to get this radiator off the truck. So far i have easy access to the timing belt. just wandering about that transmission fluid what I've drained on the floor.
Don't really know if this will causing any issues with shifting or so.

I'm going continue work on that tomorrow morning.
 
You're a brave man, I am pretty mechanically inclined but I still didn't want to tackle this on my own so a few weeks ago a buddy and I did it, unfortunately, the first day the timing (more on that later) was off so we had to repeat the 2nd day and then we succeeded. My truck had 101k miles on it and while the belt still looked good visually the water pump had been leaking.

I hope you have a compact impact gun to remove the crank pulley. Also, mark every bolt and keep track of what order things (covers and accessories) came off the engine because if you try to put them back in the wrong order you may not be able to since components get in the way of each other. And yes, getting the radiator out was tough because the shroud kept flopping in the way. And no, 100 ml of transmission fluid lost will not harm your truck, I lost more than that doing the job twice so I put a 1/2 qt back in. (no dipstick, fill plug is on passenger side of transmission case.)

Here is a good writeup - Tech Feature: Toyota V8 Timing Belt Service

Also, this is a good writeup from Blackworksinc- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump.html

I must warn you about Blackworksinc's writeup, if you follow his instructions on timing the crank and the cams, your timing might be off, at least it was on mine. Between the white marking on the crank pulley and the notches on the cam pulleys (possibly red marks also) you want to be sure to line them up the same way with the new belt as you did with the old belt.

See pic -
IMG_0498_zpsf36e58f1.jpg~original


This is how my belt came off, white mark on crank pulley is aligned with the white dot on timing cover while the cam notches were aligned with the "T" marking on the valve covers. The writeup above tells you to turn the cams to matchup with the straight marks on the valve cover (which I did the first time) and it caused big problems as the truck ran shitty and threw codes for crankshaft/camshaft correlation error.

Another video here which the guy explains things pretty good -


Let me know if you have any questions, I will attempt to check this thread regularly today.
 
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Also, you can leave the rear bolt (there are 3) in on the AC compressor. The front two bolts thread into the fan pulley bracket but you can leave the rear bolt in and it saves some time lining up the front 2 bolts. Good luck!
 
Thanks guys fro your input ! Still working on it .
It's not an easy job but with internet and youtube is not that bad. Picture of my 10 years old belt
 

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IMHO.... It is not worth the risk .. I paid a lot for my 4R... I have spent a ton on improvements ... I am very mechanically inclined.. The possible misalignment of valves and cams .. This is just a hard risk ... I just had the dealer do mine. I had my trans flushed also ...I know that It is right and I won't hesate to jump into and head into the moutanins ..
 
I have my wedding in 4 months needs save some $$$ :)

Also want to ask how I could check the transmission fluid level. I have lose some oil when disconnected transmission lines..
 
luv_mi_limit'd said:
IMHO.... It is not worth the risk .. I paid a lot for my 4R... I have spent a ton on improvements ... I am very mechanically inclined.. The possible misalignment of valves and cams .. This is just a hard risk ... I just had the dealer do mine. I had my trans flushed also ...I know that It is right and I won't hesate to jump into and head into the moutanins ..
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A guy can save a lot of money ($700+) doing it himself. I screwed up the timing by following the guide above but it wasn't so far off that it caused piston to valve contact. But ya if someone has no clue what they are doing it can be a big problem though
 
Your T4R uses WS trans fluid. Buy it from the dealer. If just a little leaked out, when you took the lines off, I wouldn't worry about it. The procedure to check your fluid level is ridiculous.
In a nutshell, you have to jump 2 pins in the DLC, run the engine until it's within the right temp, about a 20 degree window, the D light will flash, then fill the fluid until it overflows to just a trickle.
 
Also, once you get the timing belt and tensioner back on, put the crank pulley on and spin the motor over by hand before you put everything back together. If all the timing marks line up again after spinning it a few times, you know the timings good. If it's off, the marks won't line up after spinning it, plus if your way off, enough to bend valves, you'll feel it when they hit eachother. This works even better if you have the spark plugs out
 
Thanks for your input! I have seen another method of changing the transmission fluid from this guide above.
I'll go that way I guess. I'm going to get WS ATF fluid from toyota right now. I'll drain fluid from the pan and fill a new one. Does drip nut method to check the level of the fluid is pretty accurate ?
 
kacper said:
Also want to ask how I could check the transmission fluid level. I have lose some oil when disconnected transmission lines....Does drip nut method to check the level of the fluid is pretty accurate ?
Click to expand...

Checking it is easy if it's overfilled but if it's not you can still get an idea of the level using an IR gun on the bottom of the pan. If it gets much past 115 degrees and still nothing from the overflow hole, it's low. The IR gun works well and there's http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...r-ways-check-ws-transmission-fluid-level.html
 
I have question. So my belt is already on. I set everything like it should be. Than I start reassembling everything. After I have installed crank pulley and release the tensioner I turn the crank couple times to check if everything is moving good. So the mark on the pulleys are line up with these on the engine but marks on the belt are not. They were lined up before I start moving the crank pulley. Should I be aware about that ? I don't think belt went about couple teeth pulling crank by hand. Thanks for advice !
 
kacper said:
I have question. So my belt is already on. I set everything like it should be. Than I start reassembling everything. After I have installed crank pulley and release the tensioner I turn the crank couple times to check if everything is moving good. So the mark on the pulleys are line up with these on the engine but marks on the belt are not. They were lined up before I start moving the crank pulley. Should I be aware about that ? I don't think belt went about couple teeth pulling crank by hand. Thanks for advice !
Click to expand...

The marks on the belt are there only for installation. Once you rotate the engine they wont line up anymore. As long as the the marks on the cams and crank line up you should be good to go.
 
Velonici said:
The marks on the belt are there only for installation. Once you rotate the engine they wont line up anymore. As long as the the marks on the cams and crank line up you should be good to go.
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Thanks man for quick respond! t I was getting crazy about that
 
Yup, Velonici already answered but he's right, the marks on the belt won't line up when spinning the motor over by hand. Well, they will eventually but you'd probably have to spin the motor over 10 or 15+ times for them to line up

As long as the marks on the cam and crank line up where they are supposed to be, you are good.

How's it going otherwise, got the motor fired up again?
 
So after 18 hours work timing belt service is done:)
Test drive went well ,car runs great.
Thanks guys for your help! I saved about 1000$ in 2 days having a good time with my wife's dad.
I'd say it's nice to have a beer after work is done especially that kind of shitty timing belt replacement.
 
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