In middle of replacing UCAs, LCAs, CVs, TREs and Shocks...

[ThatSickRip]

So Im basically replacing the whole front end of my 05 SR5 v6. I have the drivers side shocks, CV, and LCA off (no seized bolts luckily) and have some questions:

- whats the best way to support the rotor/hub assembly to take off the UCA without disconnecting the brake lines? Or am I better off putting in the new LCA, reattaching the knuckle, install the shock and then remove the LCA once rotor/hub/knuckle are supported?

-I had leaking CV and ball joints, so theres grease everywhere. Is brake cleaner ok to spray everything down with after wiping them off to get all the remaining grease off the back of the rotor/hub assembly and knuckle or is there something better to use?

-I bought SPC cam bolts with the expectation of the OEM ones being seized, but they cam out just fine, have a little rust. Should I use the SPC bolts or clean up the OEM, and reuse with some anti-seize?

Thanks in advance!

 

[gm350reratliff]

I would just pull off the caliper and disconnect the ABS wires. Hang the caliper with some wire or bungee cords. You could also just replace the UCA/LCA separately like you described. Brake cleaner should do the trick for cleaning up splattered grease. Touch up anywhere that the brake cleaner removes the paint. For the cam bolts, I would go ahead and install the SPC's with some anti-seize or grease on them but clean up and keep the OEMs for spares.

 

[blackfc3s]

I disagree with using the SPC cam bolts. Just wire wheel/clean up the OEM bolts and use generous amount of anti seize.

People have had good luck with SPC and then their are people who haven't.

 

[Drunner97]

Do one arm at a time or use a ratchet straps to hold the spindle. Definitely disconnect the abs wire, it's easy to rip and about 100 bucks to replace. Ask me how I know. Haha.

I'd do the UCA first, reconnect the spindle, pull the LCA, put the shock in, then put the LCA in. With the LCA out of the way it makes it cake to do the shock.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[ThatSickRip]

I disagree with using the SPC cam bolts. Just wire wheel/clean up the OEM bolts and use generous amount of anti seize.

People have had good luck with SPC and then their are people who haven't.

Thats what I did. Took wire brush to them and cleaned them up. Will see how it goes.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Do one arm at a time or use a ratchet straps to hold the spindle. Definitely disconnect the abs wire, it's easy to rip and about 100 bucks to replace. Ask me how I know. Haha.

I'd do the UCA first, reconnect the spindle, pull the LCA, put the shock in, then put the LCA in. With the LCA out of the way it makes it cake to do the shock.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Yea, thats how Im going to do the other side, thanks!

First side was a learning experience for sure lol

 

[ThatSickRip]

Got an issue...had a circular "spring" that came out of knuckle/hub assembly when I was removing the old outer seal for the CV axle. Theres a little groove on the inside side of the hub assembly. Is this where it goes?

 

[metramm]

From what I remember, that spring is part of the outer dust shield (goes on the insde of the hub assembly where the CV axle going through).

Mine was torn and you could see the wire spring poking out. I replaced it with a new dust shield and gently hammered it back into place on mine. Part was around $20 and I bought two just in case I messed one up (which we did!).

Is this the part you are referring to?

 

[blackoutt]

If that garter spring has any coils bent out of place it won't apply an even pressure on the lip seal. Makes me uneasy and best to replace at that point. I found the OEM seals are better than the auto parts store ones as far as being able to take CV axles in and out multiple times. The auto parts store seal only worked once then the spring popped out and kinked the second time I pulled the CV out. I would also recommend reusing the OEM LCA cam bolts with antisieze over the SPCs.

 

[Drunner97]

Got an issue...had a circular "spring" that came out of knuckle/hub assembly when I was removing the old outer seal for the CV axle. Theres a little groove on the inside side of the hub assembly. Is this where it goes?

It's part of the rear knuckle seal. You'll have to replace the whole thing. Pro tip. The dust cap over the CV nut (front of the hub) is the exact same size as the rear seal. Center the seal, line up the cap, and a few whacks with a mallet will seat it perfectly.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[ThatSickRip]

Thanks to everyone else that posted, Ill try to post pics and make sure Ive got the same thing you guys are talking about, just in case.

If that garter spring has any coils bent out of place it won't apply an even pressure on the lip seal. Makes me uneasy and best to replace at that point. I found the OEM seals are better than the auto parts store ones as far as being able to take CV axles in and out multiple times. The auto parts store seal only worked once then the spring popped out and kinked the second time I pulled the CV out. I would also recommend reusing the OEM LCA cam bolts with antisieze over the SPCs.

Do you happen to have the part # by chance? I ll try looking it up as well.

And I did end up using the OEMs. Got the LCA in today and coated all the hardware with anti-seize

 

[ThatSickRip]

Here are the pics I mentioned. Does the spring go in the golden colored circle in the hub, or does it go elsewhere?

 

[ThatSickRip]

Also, I installed the UCA and tightened it down. I didnt get it torqued yet, but after I tightened it a bit, it didnt move like the old one did. Is this due to worn bushings on the old one, or is there an issue with the new one?

Sorry for all the questions, first time Ive done this extent of work on a vehicle and want to make sure it correct from the experienced members here

 

[AuSeeker]

The spring goes on the back side of the rubber seal, behind the "lip" to help keep pressure against the metal, there should be a groove it fits into.

But as mentioned I would suggest getting a new seal, since you have it apart it would be the time to replace it along with the other new parts, OEM is the best bet!

 

[ThatSickRip]

The spring goes on the back side of the rubber seal, behind the "lip" to help keep pressure against the metal, there should be a groove it fits into.

But as mentioned I would suggest getting a new seal, since you have it apart it would be the time to replace it along with the other new parts, OEM is the best bet!

Im an idiot. Didint even look to check the new seals I had, I just assumed it was from the hub since its a spring :doh:

Thanks again for everyones hep so far!

 

[ThatSickRip]

Got one side complete, other side tore down and cleaned ready to reassemble. I had a tough time torquing the UCA, but got it pretty tight for now. I noticed when I jacked the truck back up, that sides UCA sags and rubs the strut. Is this a sign that its not torqued completely or caused from the spacer I installed?

 

[Drunner97]

Got one side complete, other side tore down and cleaned ready to reassemble. I had a tough time torquing the UCA, but got it pretty tight for now. I noticed when I jacked the truck back up, that sides UCA sags and rubs the strut. Is this a sign that its not torqued completely or caused from the spacer I installed?

Did you torque it with the weight of the vehicle on it or torque it extended?

 

[Levinz11]

Got one side complete, other side tore down and cleaned ready to reassemble. I had a tough time torquing the UCA, but got it pretty tight for now. I noticed when I jacked the truck back up, that sides UCA sags and rubs the strut. Is this a sign that its not torqued completely or caused from the spacer I installed?

Nevermind.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Did you torque it with the weight of the vehicle on it or torque it extended?

Torqued it with wheel on the ground, but couldnt get complete access to it. Might try again with the wheel off and a jack under the UCA so I can get better access to it.