Inexpensive, quality 3" lift

TheArkMaster

TheArkMaster

New member
So i'm gonna lift my 2000 t4r. I would like about 3" and I would like to budget around 5, 600 bucks. I've heard a lot about the lc coils and such. What do you guys recommend? :noidea:
 
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I plan on old man emu coils all the way around, with 5100s up front and tokico trekmasters for fj80 rear in rear of the runner and should come out at about 600
I plan on 883 up front and 861 rear
 
5100s - $360 front/rear set from DownSouth Motorsports
Toytec Eibach - $160 front coils from Toytec

---$520

And then for the rear you can do whatever, LC springs are probably the cheapest if you can find them on craigslist since the OME ones run $170.
 
downpour11 said:
:barf:

Have some patience and save your money. You're already $250 closer to buying a decent setup.
Click to expand...
X2. No point in wasting that money and time when you can just continue to save for a permanent lift instead of a "temporary" lift.
 
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Runner4liife said:
hahah! [MENTION=60147]the kid[/MENTION] you can lead a horse to water but you cant get them to do some damn research!
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the kid said:
View attachment 97371
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sarsabious said:
I just installed this setup yesterday and am very happy with it. OME 881 up front (with Tundra 5100s) and OME 906 in the rear.
Click to expand...

5vzT4R said:
X2. No point in wasting that money and time when you can just continue to save for a permanent lift instead of a "temporary" lift.
Click to expand...

downpour11 said:
:barf:

Have some patience and save your money. You're already $250 closer to buying a decent setup.
Click to expand...

snivilous said:
5100s - $360 front/rear set from DownSouth Motorsports
Toytec Eibach - $160 front coils from Toytec

---$520

And then for the rear you can do whatever, LC springs are probably the cheapest if you can find them on craigslist since the OME ones run $170.
Click to expand...


Alright. I think I have it all figured out. Correct me if i'm wrong. SO:
Front OME coils:
Front OME Coils (95.5-04 Tacoma & 96-02 4Run)
(Do I need the spacers?)

REAR OME coils:
OME 890 Coils

5100s all around:
Bilstein 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable Shocks Tundra '99 '2006 Front Rear | eBay

plus the front dif drop kit. correct?
 
DaBigCheese said:
Alright. I think I have it all figured out. Correct me if i'm wrong. SO:
Front OME coils:
Front OME Coils (95.5-04 Tacoma & 96-02 4Run)
(Do I need the spacers?)

REAR OME coils:
OME 890 Coils

5100s all around:
Bilstein 5100 Series Ride Height Adjustable Shocks Tundra '99 '2006 Front Rear | eBay

plus the front dif drop kit. correct?
Click to expand...

1. You might need a spacer if you go with an 881 as the website says. HOWEVER, those only work with OME shocks, not 5100s (I don't know why...maybe someone can summarize that?)

2. 890 coils are a good choice.

3. You can get the Tundra 5100s from DSM for $10 cheaper if it matters, just don't mention you are using them on a 4Runner or they will go full retard.

4. The front coilovers will bolt right up with the Tundra 5100 shocks, though again you need a non-OME coil (I used Eibach springs from Toytec and am very happy, I get around 3" of lift on the lowest setting of the 5100s and I have a plate bumper, Hi-Lift, and Winch on the front).

5. Using Tundra 5100s, the rear shock lower mount bushing is too big. Some people say get new bushings, or you could try to drill it out but it looks like hardened steel. I used the stock bushings and put it on a lathe and turned it to the right OD. The rear springs will pop right in and not need any screwing with.

6. If you get a differential drop kit, the stock bash plate will need cutting or an aftermarket plate because the differential will now contact it when it rotates down. Some people say it's not necessary, others say it's "cheap insurance". A CV joint can go to around 30 degrees of deflection pretty easy, and I don't see that spacer making much of a difference in that angle relative to the max angle the CV can take. The diff drop is also rotating the differential about the rear mounts, so you are actually only getting a 1/2" maybe of actual drop in the CV differential side spline. (On that note, can someone explain why you can't just drop the entire differential? Does the driveshaft hit the crossmember?)

7. If you do the differential drop, you can just as easily put some washers or make your own spacers and get extended bolts for way cheaper than $30, which IF I ever do it is what I would do but the kit would be easier obviously.

Hope that answers everything.

EDIT: Where are you in Utah? There are quite a few of us here spanning the state, if you needed any help someone might be able to drop by.
 
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snivilous said:
1. You might need a spacer if you go with an 881 as the website says. HOWEVER, those only work with OME shocks, not 5100s (I don't know why...maybe someone can summarize that?)

2. 890 coils are a good choice.

3. You can get the Tundra 5100s from DSM for $10 cheaper if it matters, just don't mention you are using them on a 4Runner or they will go full retard.

4. The front coilovers will bolt right up with the Tundra 5100 shocks, though again you need a non-OME coil (I used Eibach springs from Toytec and am very happy, I get around 3" of lift on the lowest setting of the 5100s and I have a plate bumper, Hi-Lift, and Winch on the front).

5. Using Tundra 5100s, the rear shock lower mount bushing is too big. Some people say get new bushings, or you could try to drill it out but it looks like hardened steel. I used the stock bushings and put it on a lathe and turned it to the right OD. The rear springs will pop right in and not need any screwing with.

6. If you get a differential drop kit, the stock bash plate will need cutting or an aftermarket plate because the differential will now contact it when it rotates down. Some people say it's not necessary, others say it's "cheap insurance". A CV joint can go to around 30 degrees of deflection pretty easy, and I don't see that spacer making much of a difference in that angle relative to the max angle the CV can take. The diff drop is also rotating the differential about the rear mounts, so you are actually only getting a 1/2" maybe of actual drop in the CV differential side spline. (On that note, can someone explain why you can't just drop the entire differential? Does the driveshaft hit the crossmember?)

7. If you do the differential drop, you can just as easily put some washers or make your own spacers and get extended bolts for way cheaper than $30, which IF I ever do it is what I would do but the kit would be easier obviously.

Hope that answers everything.

EDIT: Where are you in Utah? There are quite a few of us here spanning the state, if you needed any help someone might be able to drop by.
Click to expand...


Alright so i'm sticking with the 5100s. I'll check out DSM.

I think i'll get the Eibach's like you did for the front.

What would you recommend for the back?

And so the dif drop is unnecessary?

Finally,

Are the 5100s, Eibachs, and rear springs all i'll need? Any other suggestions? I would like to get this right the first time around.

Scratch the rear springs. I reread it agian. SO the OME 890s it is. Any random parts i'll need?
 
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