Inner Tie Rod Removal and Installation

I've got the shake/vibration/wobbledy-wobble at 55+mph. I've been throwing parts at it for a while- new shocks (necessary at 230kish) & new rack bushings. Whenever I get an alignment, it'll last for a while and then fall out of alignment.

I'm going to lift it up and wobble the wheels to look for play. I understand that the ITREs should stand on their own and not fall down once their disconnected, but how do you know you need OTREs and LBJs? I've checked LBJs before and never saw anything busted/torn/leaking.

Aside from what I've listed, what are some other things I should think about? I've inspected the rack and don't see any "weeping."
 
TN22Corps said:
I've got the shake/vibration/wobbledy-wobble at 55+mph. I've been throwing parts at it for a while- new shocks (necessary at 230kish) & new rack bushings. Whenever I get an alignment, it'll last for a while and then fall out of alignment.

I'm going to lift it up and wobble the wheels to look for play. I understand that the ITREs should stand on their own and not fall down once their disconnected, but how do you know you need OTREs and LBJs? I've checked LBJs before and never saw anything busted/torn/leaking.

Aside from what I've listed, what are some other things I should think about? I've inspected the rack and don't see any "weeping."
Click to expand...

Mine showed no signs of leaking either but at 125k I changed everything to be safe.
 
Awesome writeup! This will be insanely helpful when I tackle this project.

Few quick questions:

I have been dealing with a clunk/pop when braking, acceleration, occasional turns, and bumps. Took the it in for an inspection and they told me they said it was coming from my transfer case. Changed out the fluids in my front/rear diff and the transfer case. Did nothing for the clunk but still needed to be done.

They also noted on the inspection that the drivers side ITR was bad and needed replacing. I am thinking the culpret for the clunk is the ITR because after some research I can feel it in the drivers side floor.

1. Can you replace the ITR/OTR without doing the LBJs? I know most poeple just do the lower ball joints at the sametime but due to financial reasons this might not be possible. Can I do one side at a time while I add funds to the 4runner fund or will this cause odd or uneven wear?

2. Can you use Taco ITR/OTR and LBJs without modification? I have heard they are beefier. If so what years?

3. Best place to buy? I am in Denver so I am not shy of any stores (NAPA, Auto Zone, O'Reilys etc.)

Thanks for the help and thanks again for the writeup. Subscribed.
 
Newbie

Hi guys. Just sold my jeep cherokee and bought myself a 2000 4runner limited. I believe it's the SR5 edition. Found out I have at least one if not both tie rods are shot. I read this write up and looks really simple to do myself. I also noticed that many of you prefer to replace parts from the tacoma as they are beefier. Does anyone know what the tacoma part numbers are for the inner and outer tie rods and if its possible to use them on 4runner? Or should I stick with the OEM replacements?
 
calithirteen said:
Hi guys. Just sold my jeep cherokee and bought myself a 2000 4runner limited. I believe it's the SR5 edition. Found out I have at least one if not both tie rods are shot. I read this write up and looks really simple to do myself. I also noticed that many of you prefer to replace parts from the tacoma as they are beefier. Does anyone know what the tacoma part numbers are for the inner and outer tie rods and if its possible to use them on 4runner? Or should I stick with the OEM replacements?
Click to expand...

Hi and Welcome to T4R :wave:

Some people do upgrade their OTRE's with the ones from Tacoma's as they are a little beefier. It isn't something necessarily required though. You would be fine with all OEM 4Runner parts.
 
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love it when folks do this. It's so helpful for many people. No one has to take the time build these posts but it's really great that people go out of their way to help others. Very much appreciated. thanks -
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I was checking RockAuto Parts Catalog online and it looks like they OEM as well as Moog and other aftermarket replacements. I know on my jeep I used to buy aftermarket parts and found they performed quite well. I'm not doing any serious off-roading, except for the occasional 4 wheeling on the beach w/ the family. This is my daily driver too.

I guess I'll check out pricing and quality and figure out what to do. Thanks for your help again.

:rofl:
 
i wasted my money on moog inners the first time. they will wear out fast man. dont waste your money. they just get way sloppy, way fast.
 
Be prepared to pay through the nose for OEM inner tie rods. But as Cordrayj1 lamented, nothing beats OEM for replacement parts.
 
LittleCaesar said:
Be prepared to pay through the nose for OEM inner tie rods. But as Cordrayj1 lamented, nothing beats OEM for replacement parts.
Click to expand...

Not if you get a wonderful 20% off at your dealership for everything you buy :D

Still, it's expensive when everything adds up. OEM or bust!
[MENTION=85167]jmildoc[/MENTION] Get 'er done!
 
Had a bad experience with a failed alignment at Firestone today. I had to leave the 4runner there overnight and wil have to get it tomorrow.
The Tech was trying to adjust the Tie Rod using a Vice Grip!!!
To add insult to injury he was tightening the Tie Rod lock nut rather than loosening it and in the end after I pointed out to him that he was tightening it he still couldn't break it free.
He also was Not countering the force he was applying in anyway.
I am wondering if it is possible to damage the INTRE and the Ball joint by over tightening the Tie Rod adjustment lock nut?
Thanks
 
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