yesterday i spent most of the afternoon and evening installing an aussie locker into the rear of my 92 runner 5 speed and after taking it for a test drive i found that it would not unlock at all. i was pretty worried so i spent the rest of the evening searching online for other threads about this problem and didnt find anything helpful. this morning i emailed the manufacturer and surprisingly they responded pretty quickly but couldnt really offer much advice since they couldnt look at it. all they could say was to try doing it over and starting the whole install again so thats what i did this afternoon. once i got the third out and took a look inside the gears before taking them apart i noticed that one of the springs was bent over. once i completely took it apart i made sure to keep the springs and pins in their respective holes. put everything back together and finished the install. tried the spin test and took it for a test drive and it still wont unlock. i tried all the normal driving maneuvers, turns, u-turns, reversing, etc. and it never unlocked. i used 85w140 oil both times. my suspicion is that it might have something to do with the backlash. i tried to be as precise as possible when working with the adjuster plate but im not too confident that i did it right because i probably could have done a better job of marking where it was positioned. does anyone have any ideas on what i can do? right now im thinking im gonna try to find one of those mobile mechanics to come by this week and see if they can figure it out unless anybody knows a place in san jose california that can get it fixed right and thats not too expensive. any feed back would be greatly appreciated. thanks
installed aussie locker, wont unlock????
- Thread starter ryan4r
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Jack it up and try verifing if it unlocks by hand. They have a procedure document where you can check if its unlocking in both directions on both sides before even filling up the oil. Have one person hold one side in one direction and then spin the other side the other direction. Then reverse directions on both tires. Truck has to be in gear or park as well.
Also helpful if you tell us if this is a 4cyl or v6.
Also helpful if you tell us if this is a 4cyl or v6.
Robmills72
New member
I am unsure about the Aussies but I know that for the Spartans (very similar) you have to remove the thrust washers. I had this same problem with my spartan but once those thrust washers came out it was all good
92-SR5
New member
I used to have an Aussie. You need to have the washers installed.
http://www.aussielocker.com/downloads/v6_toyota.pdf
The thrust washers are still in there per the instructions. I didn't use the feeler gauges because I couldn't tell by the instructions where I was supposed to use them. I wasn't too worried about it because one of the write ups on here said they didn't do it either because they didn't notice any signs of wear, I didn't notice any signs of wear either. Also this is a v6 3.0. I did the spin test both times and each time it didn't unlock. I don't mind driving around with the rear locked, my only concern is that since the locker isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing then what kind of damage could it be doing aside from not unlocking? I'm going to search for a shop in my area that knows about Aussie lockers to take a look at it
so i dropped my 4runner off at the shop earlier this week and they were able to take a look at it today. the tech called me up and said he thinks it might be that the thrust washers are causing it to be too tight. he said he thinks if he takes them out that will fix the problem. i told him that the instructions for aussie lockers call for the thrust washers to remain in the gears but the i would be fine with him removing them if that fixes problem. what are your guys thoughts on this? is this a bad plan? do you think this could fix the problem without further damage occurring?
92-SR5
New member
If it is a reputable shop that knows what they are doing in diffs, then go for it. :thumb3:
that was my feeling about it. its a driveline and gear shop that specializes in 4x4's. i just picked it up from the shop and everything appears to be working appropriately the way it was meant to. im gonna do a little more driving this evening to get a better feel for how it drives but so far it seems fine. doesnt take much getting used to and the ratchet noise is almost none existent. the only time i noticed that ratchet sound was when my music was off and i was turning on to a very quite street. for anyone who is thinking about getting one, my initial impression of it is this thing is awesome cause its working as advertised and the ratchet sound is not noticeable. i will update after a while of driving if there are any changes
626 4runner
New member
any updates?
I helped a friend with his 1991 4runner v6. He had the exact same problem. I was guessing the thrust washers were too thick but the stealer ship said there is only one part number that comes up for the thrust washers. So we ended up installing the locker without the thrust washers since no machine shops are open on the weekend to shave the thrust washers down. Have u had any problems with your locker without the thrust washers? Do you wheel ur rig hard? My friend and I are kinda paranoid about not being able to follow the directions. :shrug:
I helped a friend with his 1991 4runner v6. He had the exact same problem. I was guessing the thrust washers were too thick but the stealer ship said there is only one part number that comes up for the thrust washers. So we ended up installing the locker without the thrust washers since no machine shops are open on the weekend to shave the thrust washers down. Have u had any problems with your locker without the thrust washers? Do you wheel ur rig hard? My friend and I are kinda paranoid about not being able to follow the directions. :shrug:
so far i havent had any problems, but i have only taken it wheeling once since the install. it takes a little getting used to when it comes to driving around slowely like in parking lots and stuff like that. the only time where it wasnt ideal to have was when i was driving up a winding mountain road while it was raining really hard, so when i would have to go around a turn it would lock up due to the road being pretty slick but it wasnt a big deal. overall i am very pleased with it, the only reason why i wouldve waited to do it is because i recently got engaged so i havent had the time to go out camping to wheel it more. if you dont change the backlash at all then i wouldnt worry about anything else, id say just take out the washer and save it. mine hasnt given me any problems at all. the guys at the shop said that without the washer the spacing was still within the right clearance. and the shop also said they have never left the thrust washer in place when installing an auto locker in this generation of 4runner. i suppose if you get really worried about, you can drive around for a while without to see how it acts, if it doesnt lock and unlock correctly you can take the washer to a machine shop to grind it down to specs but it will be really thin by that point. let us know how it goes
gtgt_bangbang
New member
aussie locker clearances, outside the toyota parts list
ahh an apt thread for my recent aussie locker work.
"didnt check the clearances" = bad move. NO offense , but WHY dear god?
WAY too much work to skimp on the technicals. Get it right or stay on the porch IMHO.
If that shop really said "delete the thrust washers" I would be running away fast dragging my truck if necessary.
All comment below is from doing lockers on the front IFS 7.5" on a 95 v6.
That delete ADDS about .080 ~ .100" clearance (half that per side) ... to a .014 target.
Thats like getting a Brand New Girl Friend named Virginyeah ... with 8 natural born kids.
Like you learned, too tight = NO unlock, since there is no room to move in there !
Loose as hell? I guess it may work awhile, but you are going to have the gears flop all around and maybe chip or round over the locking dogs. Thats a Bad Thing.
Same stuff applies front / rear ( except possibly, ALL The gap is set by thrust washer on the front diff, Does the adjuster collar control gap on the rear or is that a back lash thing only? I dont have exp on that )
The side gear thrust washers coming OUT of my original set up were .043" wear-polished down, those were probably from the 2nd THINEST range ( Toyota offers FOUR thickness specs in about 005" increments. )
The gaps from these washers were at the very tightest spec from aussie for both spacer to pin and between the inner gears.
The only question I had was - aussie instructions show a single feeler gauge used to check gap, however, there is a SLIGHT rocking apparent in the side gear (the carrier is not dead flat, etc) so I could get a single 008 or so in there, but only a couple 5s , if I used TWO gauges at the same time, one on each side of the interface ( ie blocking the rocking reaction ) I think I worry too much sometimes.
PS - DONT Hulk on the feeler gauges - you want to feel a easy to modest slide with one size, and the next size up wont fit at all without a lot of lickher.
Anyway I ordered the only THINNER toyota spec washers ( a whole $10 or less for pair), but those came at the high end of the spec, mic'd at .040", and the dry built locker was still baaaaarely in spec with the Two Feeler method.
Aussie tech lady said " center spec best, tight spec is tight locker, loose spec is easier UNlock" means to me that means looser is better on street. Seeing how the lockUP is performed ( pin cams into inner gears), I sincerely doubt I will have straight ahead problems with staying engaged with mid spec. We'll see.
Since I want a 90%+ street rig, I didnt want tight lockers.
I had my new thrust washers ground down to .035", removing one face. $30 at a shop with a magnetic chuck surface grinder.
The thrust washers did show a little tato chip deformation after the work, but I aint skeered. yet. I recognize this may have removed some hardened face on the thrust washer, but so did 150K miles on the old ones , an they still looked and worked fine. I de burred a little bit with some wet 400 or 600 paper.
That grinder work allowed mid spec pin-to-spacer gap at logical .013" (006 to 020 spec range), and .155 ish ( 145 to 170 spec) between the halves.
With zero miles yet ( still building ) I have 100% confidence something will happen soon. good or bad.
ahh an apt thread for my recent aussie locker work.
"didnt check the clearances" = bad move. NO offense , but WHY dear god?
WAY too much work to skimp on the technicals. Get it right or stay on the porch IMHO.
If that shop really said "delete the thrust washers" I would be running away fast dragging my truck if necessary.
All comment below is from doing lockers on the front IFS 7.5" on a 95 v6.
That delete ADDS about .080 ~ .100" clearance (half that per side) ... to a .014 target.
Thats like getting a Brand New Girl Friend named Virginyeah ... with 8 natural born kids.
Like you learned, too tight = NO unlock, since there is no room to move in there !
Loose as hell? I guess it may work awhile, but you are going to have the gears flop all around and maybe chip or round over the locking dogs. Thats a Bad Thing.
Same stuff applies front / rear ( except possibly, ALL The gap is set by thrust washer on the front diff, Does the adjuster collar control gap on the rear or is that a back lash thing only? I dont have exp on that )
The side gear thrust washers coming OUT of my original set up were .043" wear-polished down, those were probably from the 2nd THINEST range ( Toyota offers FOUR thickness specs in about 005" increments. )
The gaps from these washers were at the very tightest spec from aussie for both spacer to pin and between the inner gears.
The only question I had was - aussie instructions show a single feeler gauge used to check gap, however, there is a SLIGHT rocking apparent in the side gear (the carrier is not dead flat, etc) so I could get a single 008 or so in there, but only a couple 5s , if I used TWO gauges at the same time, one on each side of the interface ( ie blocking the rocking reaction ) I think I worry too much sometimes.
PS - DONT Hulk on the feeler gauges - you want to feel a easy to modest slide with one size, and the next size up wont fit at all without a lot of lickher.
Anyway I ordered the only THINNER toyota spec washers ( a whole $10 or less for pair), but those came at the high end of the spec, mic'd at .040", and the dry built locker was still baaaaarely in spec with the Two Feeler method.
Aussie tech lady said " center spec best, tight spec is tight locker, loose spec is easier UNlock" means to me that means looser is better on street. Seeing how the lockUP is performed ( pin cams into inner gears), I sincerely doubt I will have straight ahead problems with staying engaged with mid spec. We'll see.
Since I want a 90%+ street rig, I didnt want tight lockers.
I had my new thrust washers ground down to .035", removing one face. $30 at a shop with a magnetic chuck surface grinder.
The thrust washers did show a little tato chip deformation after the work, but I aint skeered. yet. I recognize this may have removed some hardened face on the thrust washer, but so did 150K miles on the old ones , an they still looked and worked fine. I de burred a little bit with some wet 400 or 600 paper.
That grinder work allowed mid spec pin-to-spacer gap at logical .013" (006 to 020 spec range), and .155 ish ( 145 to 170 spec) between the halves.
With zero miles yet ( still building ) I have 100% confidence something will happen soon. good or bad.
Last edited:
ya in the future i will definitely use the gauges to make sure the clearance is within spec. but im assuming the shop did that anyways. im not too concerned with it at this point because so far i havent had a single problem, and it doesnt seem too difficult to replace the gear in the diff. if i ever have any issues with the locker this will def be the first place to hear about it.
gtgt_bangbang
New member
good write up on SETTING UP A DIFFERENTIAL
http://www.rockauto.com/info/USAStandardGear/USAStandardInstallInstructions.pdf
http://www.rockauto.com/info/USAStandardGear/USAStandardInstallInstructions.pdf
DanKendall6
New member
Does that aussie locker make much noise when it is set loose? I'm thinking about getting one but it's going to be my DD. And I love the price of the aussie and everyone says it's easy to install.
majority of the time i dont hear anything at all. sometimes i can hear a slight clicking when my windows are down and the music is off. from all the posts ive read, the best thing to dampen the noise is to use heavier gear fluid. i believe i used 85w140. when you say it will be for your DD, how often do you realistically plan on wheelin your rig? the reason why i ask is because when i decided to do mine, i planned on using it a lot more than i actually do. the only time its been off cement since i did it was the one time i went camping this last year (it was definitely nice having it for that). if you plan on using it offroad more than just a few times a year i would say go for it, i loved having it on that camping trip, and im going again in feb so ill update this thread after that. the only down side to it is sometimes when im going around a sharp turn while giving a slight amount of gas, the locker tries to decide if it should lock up or let it free wheel. when it does that itll give a little bit of a rocky drive. but it only takes a little while to figure out how much gas to give. other than that, theyre awesome to have, i say go for it
gtgt_bangbang
New member
there are FOUR thickness of side gear Thrust Washers listed by toyota
(behind side gear, INSIDE the diff carrier, re-used with aussie locker to set proper operating gap)
those four side gear TWs have upper spec of 1.04 (.0409"), 1.14, 1.24 and 1.34 mm ( roughly 004" intervals).
Thinnest spacer is PN 41361-30040 (040 for upper inch limit)
My diff ran well from factory with 2nd up from thinnest. I bought the thinnest ( $4~5 x 2 ) but still had to have them ground down, needed a .035" spacer to target spec.
Wont know for a year or so if the grind down caused a problem.
Aussie - if you read this, apparently you have a not uncommon problem with adequate clearances on the 7.5" Toyota IFS axles, your spacer is too thick ?
There are dozens of DIFFERENTIAL thrust washers ( between case and side bearings), btw.
(behind side gear, INSIDE the diff carrier, re-used with aussie locker to set proper operating gap)
those four side gear TWs have upper spec of 1.04 (.0409"), 1.14, 1.24 and 1.34 mm ( roughly 004" intervals).
Thinnest spacer is PN 41361-30040 (040 for upper inch limit)
My diff ran well from factory with 2nd up from thinnest. I bought the thinnest ( $4~5 x 2 ) but still had to have them ground down, needed a .035" spacer to target spec.
Wont know for a year or so if the grind down caused a problem.
Aussie - if you read this, apparently you have a not uncommon problem with adequate clearances on the 7.5" Toyota IFS axles, your spacer is too thick ?
There are dozens of DIFFERENTIAL thrust washers ( between case and side bearings), btw.
