I've taken out the stock antenna. I've cut the plug out and the signal wire (because I couldn't find the connection). I see two wires where I've cut the plug. They are 1-blue and 1-black and yellow from the 4-Runner. The wires coming from the Metra replacement are blue, red, black (ground), and signal. Which wires connect from the Metra to the blue wire and black/yellow? Also, is it true that the signal wire connection is accessed inside the kick panel? I'm assuming that the blue goes to blue and red goes to black/yellow and ground to body and signal to signal. Just needing some insight. Any assistance would be much appreciated.:help: I don't have a volt meter or that tool that pokes and lights up.
Installing a New Metra Power Antenna
- Thread starter nstytoy
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Blitzkrieg
New member
Sorry I can't help you because it's been several years since I replaced mine, but I can tell you this:
1) Bought the replacement mast/plastic gear string and that was a waste of time/money because after installing it the antenna would growl, jump and click. Determined factory motor gear was damaged.
2) Bought a complete "generic factory replacement" unit off ebay for $69. Ended up throwing that against my garage wall after 4 hours of trying to get it to fit. Complete waste of time and money. Generic was accurate in the description. Factory replacement was a complete lie. The thing came with like 13 types of different mounting bands. Bailing wire and duct tape would be a better description.
3) Bought a Toyota factory unit. Installed perfectly, works perfectly and all the connectors were correct. I think I paid like $169 from Toyota. Wish I would have just done that @ step #1. ;-)
Take all the above with the knowledge that I am very good mechanically and with electronics. There is not a lot of room to work with where the motor mounts inside the fender and with the separate relay it was just not worth my time to try to save a few bucks.
1) Bought the replacement mast/plastic gear string and that was a waste of time/money because after installing it the antenna would growl, jump and click. Determined factory motor gear was damaged.
2) Bought a complete "generic factory replacement" unit off ebay for $69. Ended up throwing that against my garage wall after 4 hours of trying to get it to fit. Complete waste of time and money. Generic was accurate in the description. Factory replacement was a complete lie. The thing came with like 13 types of different mounting bands. Bailing wire and duct tape would be a better description.
3) Bought a Toyota factory unit. Installed perfectly, works perfectly and all the connectors were correct. I think I paid like $169 from Toyota. Wish I would have just done that @ step #1. ;-)
Take all the above with the knowledge that I am very good mechanically and with electronics. There is not a lot of room to work with where the motor mounts inside the fender and with the separate relay it was just not worth my time to try to save a few bucks.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Here is the wiring diagram for the auto antenna. I'd say your plan sounds right although without a detail on how the Metra works I can't be sure. If it has an internal relay and it wants a 12V+ and a trigger wire, you will have to wire it on the far side of the control relay or direct to the HU. What you have at the blue and black/yellow are direct connections to the motor terminals.
The control relay is inside the dash to the right of the steering wheel (relay A23 on p.30 of the second attachment below.)
I don't know about the signal wire. I thought it was continuous from the motor to the HU. I've had the antenna motor out so I know it can be disconnected there, I just don't remember how.
Are you sure your factory unit is toast? Many can get a new life if pieces of the old "tail" are cleaned out and the CORRECT replacement mast is installed. Easier than effing with a generic replacement.
The control relay is inside the dash to the right of the steering wheel (relay A23 on p.30 of the second attachment below.)
I don't know about the signal wire. I thought it was continuous from the motor to the HU. I've had the antenna motor out so I know it can be disconnected there, I just don't remember how.
Are you sure your factory unit is toast? Many can get a new life if pieces of the old "tail" are cleaned out and the CORRECT replacement mast is installed. Easier than effing with a generic replacement.
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Blitzkrieg
New member
"Easier than effing with a generic replacement."
Agree 100% Durk and the point I was hoping to get across.
Agree 100% Durk and the point I was hoping to get across.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Yes, I was deliberately reinforcing your point. Just getting the wiring right may prove a challenge to one who does not own a test light--although I will help if given sufficient information. The 4Runner antenna hole is at a steeper angle than most cars so that many generics simply won't mount up.
Someone will be jumping in with "TACO whip mod!!!" in 3, 2 ,1.....
Personally, I think the auto antennas get a bad rap. They can usually be fixed. Did someone open it up to diagnose your stripped gear? Because I suspect yours could have been saved if the answer is no.
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Blitzkrieg
New member
Yep. I knew that. ;-)
The aftermarket, generic thing was a cluster f___ that I am still seething from so if we save just one person - it will be worth it.
I'm Pretty Sure Stock One Is Toast
I waited too long. Stock one used to make noise. Now it's just a subtle rubbing noise. Now I think the wheel's teeth are worn or worse-ant. motor trouble. I saw somewhere that you can turn the wheel around and it'll work but not sure for how long. Decided to get a replacement. Getting back to my question, do you think that I could connect the red to the black/yellow and blue to blue
I waited too long. Stock one used to make noise. Now it's just a subtle rubbing noise. Now I think the wheel's teeth are worn or worse-ant. motor trouble. I saw somewhere that you can turn the wheel around and it'll work but not sure for how long. Decided to get a replacement. Getting back to my question, do you think that I could connect the red to the black/yellow and blue to blue
Blitzkrieg
New member
No way I can answer that without wiring diagrams for your replacement. All I can tell you is the one I bought off Ebay was a joke. It didn't even have the right relay wiring (there was some b.s. process they had for changing the ground or something - that's where it met my garage wall).
TheDurk
Elite Member
[MENTION=104602]nstytoy[/MENTION], Can you post a link to the Metra installation instructions or at least a model number? Otherwise, see first sentence in quoted post above. I suspect, what I said above obtains, and that it WON't work, and you need to connect elsewhere, or possibly modify the Metra. But I need details.
I assume this thing was made to go into a car that did NOT have a power antenna previously, and so is not designed to connect to a pre-existing relay, as is the case here. But I could be wrong.
My guess is the red wants 12V+ and the blue wants a trigger. If this is the case, the answer is NO!.(Colors cited are pretty standard for HU wiring.)
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, wiring I can help you with. The .pdf confirms my guess was exactly right. No way to connect existing wires and have it work.
You need to run a new wire from blue to the antenna trigger wire off your HU, almost certainly blue and run a full-time 12V+ to the red wire.
You can do new runs, or, disconnect the existing blue and black/yellow from the relay under the dash, then connect the 12V+ to black/yellow, the blue to the antenna trigger on your HU, and make the appropriate connections under the fender. Aftermarket or factory HU? External amp?
If factory, you could pull the relay, and bridge Terminal #1 on the connector (12V+ blue-yellow) to Terminal #2 (yellow/black wire to fender) and Terminal #7 (Black/white Antenna trigger) to Terminal #3 (blue wire to fender) and then connect blue to blue and yellow/black to red under the fender. This will probably work aftermarket, too, but you never know what the installer dreamed up.
As far as physical mounting goes, you're on your own. But pay attention to how much angle at the mounting hole the Metra can handle. It says you can maybe reuse your old base. This would probably be a good thing.
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Thanks Durk! Is it possible to run a switch for the antenna? Should I put a switch on the blue or red. I'm hearing online that both will work just work the antenna different ways. Switch on the blue will allow antenna to stay up when toggled up when radio is on. A switch on the red 12v constant will allow you to play with height of antenna. Am I right? Any insight would be helpful.:frusty: Also, I was thinking of disabling my lighter and running the lighter as a switch. How would that work?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Sure. Both those would work. The switch on the red might be clunky because you would have to get it right or go all the way up if you go past and then get it right on the way down. A switch on both would allow you to reverse direction mid-height. Blue is up/down, red is stop/go.
Not sure what you mean about the lighter thing. Switches are cheap, what's the advantage?
Decided to put a switch on the 12v red
It works great.
ound: Toggles up and I'm able to control height. Now I gotta put back those dang pop clips and the SR5 trim in the wheel well. Is there any good way to pull the clips and reinstall the mud guard inside the fender? BTW using the lighter as a switch was just an idea that I saw online somewhere. Kind of sheik to hide the switch-James Bondish. Thanks again for all of your insight.
It works great.
ound: Toggles up and I'm able to control height. Now I gotta put back those dang pop clips and the SR5 trim in the wheel well. Is there any good way to pull the clips and reinstall the mud guard inside the fender? BTW using the lighter as a switch was just an idea that I saw online somewhere. Kind of sheik to hide the switch-James Bondish. Thanks again for all of your insight.
TheDurk
Elite Member
It works great.
Not that I was able to figure out. Get some new grommets. NAPA has them (BK 6651378) as well as dealer but they aren't cheap either place.
So did you run new wires or repurpose the old ones? Glad you got it working.
