Intake plenum wont come off,

[FishNHard]

So I'm doing head gaskets on a 5VZE and have the 4 nuts on the corners and all 8 bolts out and everything that needs to be disconnected, Trying to rock the intake side to side and this this is not moving double and tripled check that i have all bolts out and this thing is on there , Any suggestions on what i can do to get this loose , Thanks John

 

[brillo_76]

Trying to follow along here. Did you get the top of the plenum off? As these are in 2 pieces.. I never had an issue pulling these off before. :-(

 

[FishNHard]

I may have worded it wrong the 2 upper plenum pieces are off the intake with the fuel rails is what I'm having trouble breaking loose

 

[FishNHard]

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=415789&stc=1&d=1750021252

 

[brillo_76]

Ah.. Ok.. Good impact wrench with the proper socket. Those are 6 point sockets and will provide the torque required to break those fuel rail loose so you can remove it.

 

[2TH4IST]

Been a while. But I had a issue as my oem gasket rusted out (coolant ports) and caused the studs to rusr/have a build up. It was a pain to remove. I used a dead blow to tap the coolant hose neck up (towards the hood) and it finally moved.

 

[FishNHard]

what sucks there's nothing there to really get a pry bar under either​

i soak the hell out of the 4 studs with some penetrating oil so ill let that sit till i get home from work and see how that pans out. LOL was watching Timmy and a few others and all their intakes came right off I'm like i had to miss a bolt cuz this thing is on their SOLLLIID , NOPE all bolts are out now I'm like SHIT. LOL

 

[brillo_76]

Oh no... The rust belt chrome got you. Another thought is if you can induction heat the studs several times. What type of penetrating oil are you using? Worst case use wood and the bump it all around to try to break the seal. Wood block to the radiator inlet to slightly pry may get it loose. Granted, it may snap that neck off too.. I thought you were trying to remove your fuel rail at first...

I use Kroil and pb blaster...

soak and heat is how I get the rusted things. To really heat though you may have to pull the fuel rail and injectors out for safety and it make take a few days of this to get it off. You have any of it loose at all?


How this guy got his clients off.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztPdfaij8hQ

 

[3bears]

as stated above, kroil, pb blaster and heat
I use pb blaster and heat first as the pb blaster is a lot less money, if that does not work than I would switch to kroil. Or you can make your own, 50/50 acetone and atf;
some cans imply that you can just spray on and within minutes remove bolt/nut
If it is stubborn, I will spray and tap and let soak, spray again, and if needed spray again and let sit overnight, then try again


wd40 and liquid wrench dont cut it

 

[clearock]

If u get creative there are some spot you can use to pry up ward on said, this is what I do, like turning the pry bar so the blade is side ways, placing a piece of wood in a way you can use it as the resting point for the the pry bar, etc.

BUT before you get the lower valley intake off, I would recommend you clean the up all you can off the heads... just a thought.

 

[FishNHard]

I used kroil ill spray it again and let it sit overnight again , got heavy rains here today so ill have to wait Dam i wish i had a garage LOL

 

[FishNHard]

I could only walk past so many times and think lets see how you like the big mallet , WELL it said FO i dont like it BUTTT i was able to use a brass drift on 2 front edges and took about an hour to slowy rock it off so just a radiator neck broke so i can replace that.






https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=415797&stc=1&d=1750113248

 

[3bears]

glad you got it off