Inv4drZm's Build Thread

[AuSeeker]

Pretty excited about this drawer design I came up with. Made from completely flat laser-cut 1/4" aluminum that slots together. Its heavier than 1/2" plywood per sq. ft. though. The benefit of this is how easy it'll be to make (and potentially ship!!).

Inside dimensions are 17" x 32" X 6.5" and it weighs 35lbs. Figure stacking two drawers with a similarly flat-paneled outer cabinet it'll be 85lbs. Not sure if that's too much. Also not sure if it'll rattle just being slotted together, depends on how tight the slots are. I can easily weld it if it does.

I'll be putting it on the left side of my cargo system if I do end up making it. I just thought it was a cool design I haven't seen anyone build before.

Why are you thinking on using 1/4"?

I think 1/8" would be strong enough or if not then 3/16 would for sure be strong enough, it would reduce the weight by 1/2 to 1/4?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Why are you thinking on using 1/4"?

I think 1/8" would be strong enough or if not then 3/16 would for sure be strong enough, it would reduce the weight by 1/2 to 1/4?

You're probably right, just figured since there isn't any bends in the material, and the thin tabs, might as well make it overkill, but at potentially 85 lbs that's too heavy.

 

[AuSeeker]

You're probably right, just figured since there isn't any bends in the material, and the thin tabs, might as well make it overkill, but at potentially 85 lbs that's too heavy.

If the price of material is not much of a issue compared to too much weight then you might want to consider going thin...but a much higher grade of aluminum, some of the higher grades can be stronger than steel!

The Strength of Aluminum | The Aluminum Association

 

[montijo505]

I'm sick, and it's an untreatable condition. Smaltireidus.



Larger tires are the only known cure.



:rofl:

Can't wait till you SAS it with 40's. Only a matter of time.

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[Inv4drZm]

Can't wait till you SAS it with 40's. Only a matter of time.

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That's what I bought my Tundra for.

 

[rickashay]

Dude, I havent checked in here in a while. Lots of cool stuff happening in your thread as always. Love the aluminum liners and design for your drawers. Truck looks great too!

When you going 37's? lol

 

[Inv4drZm]

Dude, I havent checked in here in a while. Lots of cool stuff happening in your thread as always. Love the aluminum liners and design for your drawers. Truck looks great too!

When you going 37's? lol

Glad all you guys like my work. I can't let the FJ dudes show me up at our trail runs.

37's are going on after I dial in my ride height and alignment. I've thought about the alignment some more and if I adjust the UCA for more caster with the heims, it is actually leaning the spindle backwards into the firewall. I probably need to adjust for less caster than I have now for more clearance which is opposite from the usual. I'm really curious if I'll need to tub the firewall or if I'll get lucky and the combination of +2" arms with the LCA moved all the way forward will work.

 

[montijo505]

That's what I bought my Tundra for.

Daily the tundra and swap the 4R or vice versa?

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[Inv4drZm]

Daily the tundra and swap the 4R or vice versa?

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Swap the Tundra is what I meant.

 

[Inv4drZm]

1/8" aluminum should be strong enough. 65lbs total ~$170 in material from work at cost. This made from 1/2" plywood would be 52lbs.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

1/8" aluminum should be strong enough. 65lbs total ~$170 in material from work at cost. This made from 1/2" plywood would be 52lbs.

I've been using tab and slot for alignment but having the tab be about 1/2 the thickness of the material, then the reverse side of the slot becomes a weld location. If you run a solid bead, you can grind smooth for a really slick finish. Also saves some overall dimension. You may be able to get by with a 12GA shell and 14GA inner going with all flat. Slot welding may not work as well for 14GA though. Gives you another excuse to work on TIG.

Another option is to nest the dividers for the shelves into the bottom panel of the outer shell. The center section of the base isn't doing anything for the rigidity, so you can save material and weight cutting the dividers out of that center section. Probably can't get all of them fit into there, but every little bit counts...

 

[Inv4drZm]

I've been using tab and slot for alignment but having the tab be about 1/2 the thickness of the material, then the reverse side of the slot becomes a weld location. If you run a solid bead, you can grind smooth for a really slick finish. Also saves some overall dimension. You may be able to get by with a 12GA shell and 14GA inner going with all flat. Slot welding may not work as well for 14GA though. Gives you another excuse to work on TIG.

Another option is to nest the dividers for the shelves into the bottom panel of the outer shell. The center section of the base isn't doing anything for the rigidity, so you can save material and weight cutting the dividers out of that center section. Probably can't get all of them fit into there, but every little bit counts...

I guess I should probably clarify. One panel has fingers that slide into slots of another panel to lock them in place.

Here is the side of a drawer which locks into slots in the base panel.



The more basic tab and slot design like you mentioned, I used for my welding table. That method would require welding wheras mine could be assembled without welding depending on how rattly it is when driving down the road.

I didn't think about nesting the dividers, however I designed the lower base with weight-saving cutouts.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Unfortunately the bed I bought probably won't work. It was from a double cab, and I'm learning the access cabs and regular cab beds are different in a couple areas. The double cab beds are more curved where it meets the cab, which isn't a huge problem by itself, I could maybe cut and reweld it. But that coupled with the bed being 4" deeper (I measured), it will nearly start to obscure the rear window....

I've thought about getting fiberglass bedsides and modifying it all to work chopping the sheetmetal 4" shorter, but it would probably end up being a 100hr hack job wheras an access cab bed would nearly bolt in and be easily replaceable if I can find one for a decent price. Well this sucks. Anyone need a Tundra bed?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Adjusted the front coilovers on my truck to make it level with the rear, then redid my alignment by adjusting the UCA quite a bit, now it drives really nicely.


Working on painting my front skid plate, noticed a cracked weld.

 

[xtremewlr]

Adjusted the front coilovers on my truck to make it level with the rear, then redid my alignment by adjusting the UCA quite a bit, now it drives really nicely.

Would love more info in what specialty tools you use for doing your own alignments. Looks pretty simple. How does the setup pictured stay put on the tire/wheel?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Would love more info in what specialty tools you use for doing your own alignments. Looks pretty simple. How does the setup pictured stay put on the tire/wheel?

Its a system made by quicktrick. Those 3 steel rods have points ground into them which are pretty effective at wedging between the tire and the rim. Not deep enough to damage anything, and also easy to adjust. The kit comes with a digital level gauge, but it would help if I had clean level concrete to zero it out on.

 

[xtremewlr]

Its a system made by quicktrick. Those 3 steel rods have points ground into them which are pretty effective at wedging between the tire and the rim. Not deep enough to damage anything, and also easy to adjust. The kit comes with a digital level gauge, but it would help if I had clean level concrete to zero it out on.

Great info, thanks!

 

[Inv4drZm]

Hype!!!



Tread looks a little narrow...
37 vs. 37

 

[montijo505]

Hype!!!







Tread looks a little narrow...

37 vs. 37

Still needs air! Beef man

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[Inv4drZm]

Welded in limit straps and made sure the coilovers wouldn't bottom out.





CV Clamp is really close to hitting the lower uniball. I filed it down a hair.





At the bumpstop the tire eats the fender, still have over an inch of shock travel.




Bolted back on my freshly painted skids in preparation for wheeling tomorrow.