Inv4drZm's Build Thread

[Inv4drZm]

Ok that makes sense then I need to pick up some driveway alignment setup like you have do you still take it to a shop after or do you just run it based of the driveway setup? Sorry for all the questions I’m starting to think about my goals for the front now and 37s like you is definitely in the goal I miss the big tires and 33s don’t cut it for me haha.

The driveway alignment is all I do. I would imagine most normal alignment shops wouldn't touch it if you told them they had to take the UCA off and spin the heim. Maybe if you have an auto fabrication shop nearby that happens to have an alignment machine but they might charge you a bunch too.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Brother hopped in the FJ one morning and it won't turn left very easily. Has power right but not left. He ordered a new steering rack, doing some research it's probably something wrong with the rotary valve that diverts fluid to either side of the piston when you turn. Jacked the truck off the ground and steered without it running and it had smooth steering so nothing mechanical is binding. No fluid leaks and still has fluid in the reservoir.

I'm thinking about buying a used rack on Ebay for $125 and taking it on our trip for a spare.

Question I have is worse-case scenario I blow a seal or bend a rack on the Rubicon. Can I make it home without power steering fluid? I know I can't wheel without power steering, I've tried that. The pump might burn up but could it seize and lock up the belt? Probably would have to cap the lines before the rack somehow, and keep fluid in the pump to keep it happy even though it'll probably just bypass and recirculate. Bringing a used rack might be my best bet.

 

[AuSeeker]

Brother hopped in the FJ one morning and it won't turn left very easily. Has power right but not left. He ordered a new steering rack, doing some research it's probably something wrong with the rotary valve that diverts fluid to either side of the piston when you turn. Jacked the truck off the ground and steered without it running and it had smooth steering so nothing mechanical is binding. No fluid leaks and still has fluid in the reservoir.

I'm thinking about buying a used rack on Ebay for $125 and taking it on our trip for a spare.

Question I have is worse-case scenario I blow a seal or bend a rack on the Rubicon. Can I make it home without power steering fluid? I know I can't wheel without power steering, I've tried that. The pump might burn up but could it seize and lock up the belt? Probably would have to cap the lines before the rack somehow, and keep fluid in the pump to keep it happy even though it'll probably just bypass and recirculate. Bringing a used rack might be my best bet.

I think I would connect the 2 lines together instead of capping them, I think the pump would be happier.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I think I would connect the 2 lines together instead of capping them, I think the pump would be happier.

That would return the high pressure line into the reservoir though.

A shop vac gets louder if you clog the end, but this is because it's actually spinning faster because it's not pumping air and the load is reduced. I'm thinking the same principal with the pump, although yes it's not circulating cooler fluid back through.

:shrug:

 

[Inv4drZm]

Happy to say my firewall clearancing is successful. I can't see any rub marks even with the tire rubbing against the top of the fender (I still need longer bumpstops).

 

[AuSeeker]

That would return the high pressure line into the reservoir though.

A shop vac gets louder if you clog the end, but this is because it's actually spinning faster because it's not pumping air and the load is reduced. I'm thinking the same principal with the pump, although yes it's not circulating cooler fluid back through.

:shrug:

Well not sure which way would be best.

I wonder if the entire pump could be bypassed with a shorter serpentine belt, might check the routing of the belt to see if that's a possibility?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Took apart my used aftermarket CV axle, ya know the one that had the boot split open while wheeling in Colorado. Figured I would disassemble it into the two stub shafts that way if I break an axle, and then break my spare +2" axle, I'll have a 3rd option of getting home. I don't know why this wouldn't work as long as I lock the center diff.



I tried the pipe slam method of breaking the retaining clip in the outer joint, which worked for converting the other two CV's to +2" shafts. Didn't work this time so I used an angle grinder which was fun but made for lots of cleanup. (that's what she said)



Got my used rack w/ 85k miles, came with two complete tie rods in really good condition, sweet. Not bad for $125.



A little crusty.



After some scrubbing and spraying:



Tried draining most of the rack by spinning the steering shaft input by hand. I'll need to find plugs for the two ports when transporting it though. This is the end cap that unthreaded from my rack in Moab last year. My brother got his new steering rack in the same day as I got mine, and he had me tack weld the cap on with my tig machine.



3rd project, finally got the grill in the mail:



Doesn't quite fit. A dremel should help.

 

[y=mx+b]

Got my used rack w/ 85k miles, came with two complete tie rods in really good condition, sweet. Not bad for $125.

Did that come from LKQ's ebay? I had a rough time ordering some used OEM CV axles from them to rebuild. I tried several different shipping locations and they kept cancelling for various reasons. One finally showed up but it was an O'reillys axle. They ended up letting me keep it, but I didn't expect to have to try 4 times before giving up. Probably because CVs often get broken and replaced and racks not as often.

If not from LKQ, where do you suggest sourcing some used parts if local junkyards don't have any 4runners?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Did that come from LKQ's ebay? I had a rough time ordering some used OEM CV axles from them to rebuild. I tried several different shipping locations and they kept cancelling for various reasons. One finally showed up but it was an O'reillys axle. They ended up letting me keep it, but I didn't expect to have to try 4 times before giving up. Probably because CVs often get broken and replaced and racks not as often.

If not from LKQ, where do you suggest sourcing some used parts if local junkyards don't have any 4runners?

It was some other ebay store. My CV's I bought from a member on here needing a reboot, and my driveshaft was some random ebay store find as well.

So I would keep trying ebay but stay away from LKQ because they don't like you for some reason.

 

[montijo505]

Did that come from LKQ's ebay? I had a rough time ordering some used OEM CV axles from them to rebuild. I tried several different shipping locations and they kept cancelling for various reasons. One finally showed up but it was an O'reillys axle. They ended up letting me keep it, but I didn't expect to have to try 4 times before giving up. Probably because CVs often get broken and replaced and racks not as often.



If not from LKQ, where do you suggest sourcing some used parts if local junkyards don't have any 4runners?

Tacomaworld classifieds are very active and 2nd gen parts are interchangeable with our 4th gens for the most part. As far as axles/steering rack/most suspension.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Inv4drZm]

Bumpstops are spaced down further, subwoofer grill is in.

Might lay a bead of silicone around the grille, right now it's just held in by pressure and silicone might smooth the edge a little too.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

Bumpstops are spaced down further, subwoofer grill is in.

Might lay a bead of silicone around the grille, right now it's just held in by pressure and silicone might smooth the edge a little too.

Black door edge trim would clean it up, or get a vanity trim plate laser cut that can hold the grille too.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Black door edge trim would clean it up, or get a vanity trim plate laser cut that can hold the grille too.

I have the perfect size 1/8" aluminum sheet that perfectly fit that entire plastic trim panel, and had the trim panel laying on top of it for a couple weeks debating on whether or not to cut it out. Two things stopped me, I would need to use rivet nuts to secure the panel to the body, which I don't have, and the grill vent part would need to be laser cut, or some other vent design riveted to it.

But I agree another aluminum panel would look nice there.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

Oh I was thinking not like a ring that covered the hole, kind of like a beadlock ring.

 

[Jayson44]

you have the Napa Auto CVs in there now, correct? what part number were those? gonna pick some up since I have a boot that's leaking...

J.

 

[Inv4drZm]

you have the Napa Auto CVs in there now, correct? what part number were those? gonna pick some up since I have a boot that's leaking...

J.

No I've got OEM Toyota CV's.

 

[Jayson44]

No I've got OEM Toyota CV's.

ah, yeah I just realized it was Cruzado who uses the Napa ones. my bad!

J.

 

[PickleRiiiick]

Badass build man! Any chance you got specs on what you used to attach it to the frame?

 

[Darklight]

So how you liking the swing out delete mod?
Kind of a pain to live with the swing out if you have to access to cargo area daily. The rear window is 80%blocked with a 35 or larger tire.
The weight of the tire is felt in turns with no sway bars.

I just started running with tire in the cargo and like it a lot. Still have the swing out arms on though and plan to use tire carrier on trips. Never have any issues with wobble rattle or anything. Just an inconvenience to have to open.
After 6 years of having the bumper thought I would switch it up a little lol.

Seems like it would be a pain to remove the arms completely if I planned on reinstalling them for trips.

 

[rwheeler]

I like the subwoofer mod. Looking to do something like that with mine.