AuSeeker
Elite Member
Try and get your post count up to at least 15 which is when you will be able to send and receive PMs, start a topic, etc.!!
Inv4drZm's Build Thread
- Thread starter Inv4drZm
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Try and get your post count up to at least 15 which is when you will be able to send and receive PMs, start a topic, etc.!!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Big 26 sized air cooled torch does well at 200 amps, doesn't melt your hand like my little torch. I ordered a number of 36" long scrap 1/8" steel to practice with. Here's the first one. I'm pretty confident I can handle control arms at this point. Maybe not the prettiest but strong enough.
The backside, some penetration. Could be better?
The backside, some penetration. Could be better?
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Used some pulse settings on the welder which basically jumps between high and low amperage to make it easier to make the weld look consistent. Controls heat input better and in this case had better penetration. I'll probably do this for the control arms as you can just lay the filler wire in the joint, pulse over top of it, and weld long sections at a time very easily.
Backside:
Adjusted pulse settings every inch or so to dial it in:
Backside:
Adjusted pulse settings every inch or so to dial it in:
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Found some takeoff 20" 2022 Tundra wheels and tires shipped to my door for $1000. Toyota went back to the 6 bolt pattern so I though they might work. Couple issues though, not sure they are worth keeping.
- Not sure if I like the big wheel look
- Didn't come with hubcaps
- Larger diameter and will require massaging to fit
- Offset is wrong and tire rubs the spindle/ uca, need wheel spacers
- Conical lug nuts don't seat into the bore of the wheel, I believe newer tundras use m14 studs and mine use m12.
Fitment can be fixed with a set of wheel spacers that adapt from m12 to m14 if those exist.
Another possibility is to find a set of 18" wheels for sale or trade someone for them.
The tire 'roughly' in position:
- Not sure if I like the big wheel look
- Didn't come with hubcaps
- Larger diameter and will require massaging to fit
- Offset is wrong and tire rubs the spindle/ uca, need wheel spacers
- Conical lug nuts don't seat into the bore of the wheel, I believe newer tundras use m14 studs and mine use m12.
Fitment can be fixed with a set of wheel spacers that adapt from m12 to m14 if those exist.
Another possibility is to find a set of 18" wheels for sale or trade someone for them.
The tire 'roughly' in position:
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Random update post. Been busy the past year helping my grandparents with their rental house and farm machinery business. Haven't had much time or desire to work on the 4runner other than the MZLT kit.
Patched the floor in a couple combine headers:
Cut out this section and patched it:
Got a motorcycle running that hadn't been started in 10 years:
Mostly succeeded in getting this old Ford tractor to run for an auction:
Replaced all the gaskets in grandma's mower:
20211016_100042_HDR
Repaired the rotted out transom in grandparent's boat, took a chainsaw to auger out the old wood and used marine grade plywood to replace it. Made improvements to the guide rails on the boat trailer and re-carpeted:
Added some steps to get into the boat easier:
My uncle started a box truck business with a penske box truck. He bolted on another box because the old one was damaged in a wreck, and I've fixed just about everything on it including rewiring running lights on the box, remounting the axle so it drives straight even though it has a crooked frame, old liftgate needed cut off with a plasma and new liftgate needed some welding, replaced front brake shoes and shocks, drums are probably 60 lbs. Removed valve cover to replace a few sensors, countless other projects for the truck too.:
This was like 1" thick plate I cut through with the plasma in one pass:
Patched the floor in a couple combine headers:
Cut out this section and patched it:
Got a motorcycle running that hadn't been started in 10 years:
Mostly succeeded in getting this old Ford tractor to run for an auction:
Replaced all the gaskets in grandma's mower:
20211016_100042_HDRRepaired the rotted out transom in grandparent's boat, took a chainsaw to auger out the old wood and used marine grade plywood to replace it. Made improvements to the guide rails on the boat trailer and re-carpeted:
Added some steps to get into the boat easier:
My uncle started a box truck business with a penske box truck. He bolted on another box because the old one was damaged in a wreck, and I've fixed just about everything on it including rewiring running lights on the box, remounting the axle so it drives straight even though it has a crooked frame, old liftgate needed cut off with a plasma and new liftgate needed some welding, replaced front brake shoes and shocks, drums are probably 60 lbs. Removed valve cover to replace a few sensors, countless other projects for the truck too.:
This was like 1" thick plate I cut through with the plasma in one pass:
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Thinking pretty seriously about selling either cut files or weld-it-yourself kits for 'MZLT' control arms. I could weld them too but I think all the weld time that would take and liability issues wouldn't be worth it.
Will need to supply a fixture or two to weld properly but we'll see how tricky it is when I do mine.
BTW should cycle 11.5" of travel on my truck with the upper limit being my 37's against the fender and lower limit being shock length, CV angle, and UCA uniball.
With 35's on my truck, around 12.5" of travel.
So same as every other +3.5" kit including +2.75" RCLT. Not sure on +3.5" RCLT.
Might draw up a +4.5" kit just to see what numbers it can pull.
Will need to supply a fixture or two to weld properly but we'll see how tricky it is when I do mine.
BTW should cycle 11.5" of travel on my truck with the upper limit being my 37's against the fender and lower limit being shock length, CV angle, and UCA uniball.
With 35's on my truck, around 12.5" of travel.
So same as every other +3.5" kit including +2.75" RCLT. Not sure on +3.5" RCLT.
Might draw up a +4.5" kit just to see what numbers it can pull.
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4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
The more I get involved w modifying my truck, seeing what you and Devon are doing past and present, what the KOH/Desert racers and enthusiasts are doing, the more mad respect I gain for welder/fab guys in this industry. The talent is amazing.
Just pulled the front diff and rack out of mine. Officially in the deep end now w the install of this 200 rack. Can't wait to put the manual T-case in 4 Lo w a 4:56 gear and a +3.5. If I have gas money...
y=mx+b
New member
the MPG while on jack stands can't be beat
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Awe shucks. :yo: I'm just a guy with too much free time and access to cool tools.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Yeah probably! The model he has apparently isn't known to be that reliable but he researches all the problems and buys the replacement parts and I do the grunt work.
rdruss
Senior Member
And it is grunt work as you found out with the brakes!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Its a bit of a shame to put all this time into designing this long travel kit but reuse stock spindles.
The benefit of fabricating new spindles is that I can rotate the UCA uniball sideways so it isn't the limit for downtravel or uptravel.
Solo Motorsports kit does this with +4.5" arms and gets 19" of travel. They also use 10" shocks instead of 8" shocks and use a custom shock hoop. And would require removing a lot of engine bay sheetmetal to maximize uptravel especially with 37's.
My +3.5" kit will 'only' get 12" of travel. And I'm spending good money beefing up the stock spindle...
I might design a second kit in the future. Should be able to re-use my existing LCA design.
The benefit of fabricating new spindles is that I can rotate the UCA uniball sideways so it isn't the limit for downtravel or uptravel.
Solo Motorsports kit does this with +4.5" arms and gets 19" of travel. They also use 10" shocks instead of 8" shocks and use a custom shock hoop. And would require removing a lot of engine bay sheetmetal to maximize uptravel especially with 37's.
My +3.5" kit will 'only' get 12" of travel. And I'm spending good money beefing up the stock spindle...
I might design a second kit in the future. Should be able to re-use my existing LCA design.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Or if I kept my 8" shocks and left it at +3.5" I could get 15" of travel by designing a new spindle. Might be a good compromise. For example, Dirt Designs kit.
All options will probably require fiberglass fenders to obtain full uptravel even with my 1.5" bodylift.
With stock fenders currently I am at 10" of travel with +2.
All options will probably require fiberglass fenders to obtain full uptravel even with my 1.5" bodylift.
With stock fenders currently I am at 10" of travel with +2.
I don't know how I missed some of the recent updates.. you're absolutely killing it man!
I'll be the first to scream "TAKE MY MONEY" when you are done and willing sell the cut files. You're doing everything I wish I had the time to do right now.. I'm not all that much older, but I swear the responsibility list grows exponentially once you crest 30 and are married lol.
I guess it also doesn't help that I decided to build up my 95 supra again which has been taking most of my free time with swapping out fuel system, running new wiring, gearing up to get it tuned on E85 with hopes of making a little north of 600rwhp... with all that going on I literally haven't had time to even fire up solidworks to start looking into any designs and yours is months ahead.
As much as it would be awesome to get more total travel, I would imagine a lot of the DIY guys (like myself) would be plenty happy with retaining an 8" shock on a +3.5" kit and minimizing the amount of work needing to be done on the fender apron to free up the up-travel. I personally am not against it... but with the snorkel I custom built I may be limited by that even if I'm OK with tubing the front end and cutting out the apron altogether lol.
With regards to the spindle.. when you say "beefing up" are you referring to just reinforcing it, or also extending the stock spindle? I could have sworn I saw one of the guys cut his near the upper mount and extended it a couple of inches. I completely agree with the idea of being able to roll the UCA over on the side to keep it from limiting travel, but curious to know if this would really be a factor for an 8" shock on a +3.5 kit achieving 12" of travel (which I think is more than sufficient for a moderately built rig..)
One thing I would be curious about if you do go the route of designing a whole new spindle is whether or not there is any opportunity to beef up the wheel bearing to something more sturdy for the 37" tire applications in hopes of getting a bit more longevity for the rigs that are still regularly city-driven and not just trail queens that will rarely see many miles.
Anyhow, sorry for the super excited post, but I really can't wait to see all this done and coming together in an actual prototype, super hyped about it! Keep killing it my dude!
I'll be the first to scream "TAKE MY MONEY" when you are done and willing sell the cut files. You're doing everything I wish I had the time to do right now.. I'm not all that much older, but I swear the responsibility list grows exponentially once you crest 30 and are married lol.
I guess it also doesn't help that I decided to build up my 95 supra again which has been taking most of my free time with swapping out fuel system, running new wiring, gearing up to get it tuned on E85 with hopes of making a little north of 600rwhp... with all that going on I literally haven't had time to even fire up solidworks to start looking into any designs and yours is months ahead.
As much as it would be awesome to get more total travel, I would imagine a lot of the DIY guys (like myself) would be plenty happy with retaining an 8" shock on a +3.5" kit and minimizing the amount of work needing to be done on the fender apron to free up the up-travel. I personally am not against it... but with the snorkel I custom built I may be limited by that even if I'm OK with tubing the front end and cutting out the apron altogether lol.
With regards to the spindle.. when you say "beefing up" are you referring to just reinforcing it, or also extending the stock spindle? I could have sworn I saw one of the guys cut his near the upper mount and extended it a couple of inches. I completely agree with the idea of being able to roll the UCA over on the side to keep it from limiting travel, but curious to know if this would really be a factor for an 8" shock on a +3.5 kit achieving 12" of travel (which I think is more than sufficient for a moderately built rig..)
One thing I would be curious about if you do go the route of designing a whole new spindle is whether or not there is any opportunity to beef up the wheel bearing to something more sturdy for the 37" tire applications in hopes of getting a bit more longevity for the rigs that are still regularly city-driven and not just trail queens that will rarely see many miles.
Anyhow, sorry for the super excited post, but I really can't wait to see all this done and coming together in an actual prototype, super hyped about it! Keep killing it my dude!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I haven't thought to extend the spindle, only gussets and double shear steering mounts. I'd assume extending it will change the geometry in a negative way and factory length is best for something like that. I've seen a guy or two on instagram cut off the top half of the spindle and weld on his own. I figure I have the tools why not build one from scratch.
The UCA uniball is the first thing to bind on downtravel and uptravel because the UCA is shorter than the LCA it reaches more of an angle. By having a horizontally mounted uniball and custom spindle you can get a bit more downtravel and uptravel until you are limited by the UCA contacting the fender liner on uptravel and shock length on downtravel, at least if you have high angle JD Fab 934 CVs and are willing to trim for tire clearance.
So around 12" with stock spindle and 15" with fabricated spindle, both having +3.5" arms and standard 8" LT shock.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Went to the office this weekend to work on this. Don't know how much the quote will be to get the two billet parts of the spindle machined, but it looks pretty nice. The tie rod arm gets welded in vs the single piece knuckle marlin uses but should be strong enough for me and a lot more cost effective in terms of machining time.
Might as well measure my steering rack, differential, and cv's to check bumpsteer and cv angle limitations. Thought about dropping in a Tundra or Ford Superduty unit bearing. But those might add width, brakes would be a little more complicated, and larger axle shafts are possible but maybe not worth the hassle if they limit angle. Using the stock spindle lower 'cradle' and the lower uniball is single shear like stock to save clearance probably close to 2" gained vs double shear... I should probably mount the lower uniball like Marlin's with the bolt horizontal, double shear, since the top uniball is that way and I have to limit steering to 33deg anyway. Moved the wheel speed sensor to the rear of the hub to beef up the tie rod arm.
Designing a basic LT kit using the stock spindle and factory frame locations, you really can only change camber at ride height and caster. But if you fabricate the spindle and deviate from the factory spindle design you can change bumpsteer, camber throughout travel, scrub radius, ackerman, cv plunge, etc. Its a whole can of worms. But since I'm not changing the frame mounting points and this is still a street truck its probably best I stay with the factory spindle dimensions.
Might as well measure my steering rack, differential, and cv's to check bumpsteer and cv angle limitations. Thought about dropping in a Tundra or Ford Superduty unit bearing. But those might add width, brakes would be a little more complicated, and larger axle shafts are possible but maybe not worth the hassle if they limit angle. Using the stock spindle lower 'cradle' and the lower uniball is single shear like stock to save clearance probably close to 2" gained vs double shear... I should probably mount the lower uniball like Marlin's with the bolt horizontal, double shear, since the top uniball is that way and I have to limit steering to 33deg anyway. Moved the wheel speed sensor to the rear of the hub to beef up the tie rod arm.
Designing a basic LT kit using the stock spindle and factory frame locations, you really can only change camber at ride height and caster. But if you fabricate the spindle and deviate from the factory spindle design you can change bumpsteer, camber throughout travel, scrub radius, ackerman, cv plunge, etc. Its a whole can of worms. But since I'm not changing the frame mounting points and this is still a street truck its probably best I stay with the factory spindle dimensions.
