Is "Hitch Shackle" a good idea? Also, recommendation for a tow strap.

Greetings
This is directed to Jetboy but all sources welcomed--
Jetboy you said that the shackle should hang vertically; I can see why but I can't find any makers who provide this orientation. who makes one?
Also if this vertical hang is better why make any horizontally oriented?
Thanks

I think it has a lot to do with looks, not with function. I'd guess in reality most of them make them horizontal because that's how everyone else does it. If there's an engineering justification for it I cannot think of it. Maybe someone else can chime in? I can think of a very good reason to set it the other way. Lots of winch bumpers orient the tabs for shackles the same way - possibly so the shackle lays flat while driving? Otherwise they should also be the other way IMO. Most factory tow loops are welded on horizontally, but they are different in design and horizontal makes a lot more sense in that situation.

I just borrowed this from the interwebs, so I don't know if the calculations are accurate, but assuming they are at least a rough approximation, why would you want a design that significantly reduces your strength on common pulls from the side or intermediate angles?
Angled-Loads.jpg


The only one I know of is Champion brand or the Ebay ones with no-name that are double drilled like this:
$(KGrHqZ,!iYFCYHM,WqlBQ0t+ZMibQ~~60_12.JPG
 
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I think it has a lot to do with looks, not with function. I'd guess in reality most of them make them horizontal because that's how everyone else does it. If there's an engineering justification for it I cannot think of it. Maybe someone else can chime in? I can think of a very good reason to set it the other way. Lots of winch bumpers orient the tabs for shackles the same way - possibly so the shackle lays flat while driving? Otherwise they should also be the other way IMO. Most factory tow loops are welded on horizontally, but they are different in design and horizontal makes a lot more sense in that situation.

I just borrowed this from the interwebs, so I don't know if the calculations are accurate, but assuming they are at least a rough approximation, why would you want a design that significantly reduces your strength on common pulls from the side or intermediate angles?
Angled-Loads.jpg


The only one I know of is Champion brand or the Ebay ones with no-name that are double drilled like this:
$(KGrHqZ,!iYFCYHM,WqlBQ0t+ZMibQ~~60_12.JPG

Here is another one that allows you to mount vertically or horizontally.Recovery Hitch with Shackle
 
I just borrowed this from the interwebs, so I don't know if the calculations are accurate, but assuming they are at least a rough approximation, why would you want a design that significantly reduces your strength on common pulls from the side or intermediate angles?
Heh, what do you think the WLL is on a 1/2" shackle? And keep in mind the WLL is 1/5th to 1/7th of the actual breaking strength of it.
 
Heh, what do you think the WLL is on a 1/2" shackle? And keep in mind the WLL is 1/5th to 1/7th of the actual breaking strength of it.

Less than the WLL on a 5/8 hitch pin. :D

The WLL on a typical 1/2" shackle is 4,000-6,000lbs. The de-rate for a side pull gets down to as low as 2k lbs. A 3/4 shackle will get you up to 10-13,000lbs. Again a side pull drops that low enough that you could be well under the WLL of a recovery winch. And if you assume a safety factor of 5, you could very well have a failure of a cheap 1/2" shackle on a side pull with a winch or a recovery strap. Many 8-10k rated winches will pull 12-14k lbs of static line pull. And the 1/2" shackle may be the weakest point that will fail before the winch rope. That could actually be very dangerous.

My biggest question is why manufacture an inherently worse design when it's free to build a better one?
 
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I think it has a lot to do with looks, not with function. I'd guess in reality most of them make them horizontal because that's how everyone else does it. If there's an engineering justification for it I cannot think of it. Maybe someone else can chime in? I can think of a very good reason to set it the other way. Lots of winch bumpers orient the tabs for shackles the same way - possibly so the shackle lays flat while driving? Otherwise they should also be the other way IMO. Most factory tow loops are welded on horizontally, but they are different in design and horizontal makes a lot more sense in that situation.

I just borrowed this from the interwebs, so I don't know if the calculations are accurate, but assuming they are at least a rough approximation, why would you want a design that significantly reduces your strength on common pulls from the side or intermediate angles?
Angled-Loads.jpg


The only one I know of is Champion brand or the Ebay ones with no-name that are double drilled like this:
$(KGrHqZ,!iYFCYHM,WqlBQ0t+ZMibQ~~60_12.JPG

when I built mine, I drilled holes both directions, similar to the picture. except mine aren't inline with each other, but instead slightly staggered.


that said, in all the years using it I have never once used it the other way.
either its because I forgot, or have never needed it...
 
Very interesting thread so far, Has got me thinking about this more then I have in the past. I always assumed that the Shackles were meant to be used in the horizontal direction but it appears for off angle (side to side) pulls vertical would be best.

For the Pin argument.....assuming a straight pull, the Pin is what is holding the shackle to the hitch so thinking that using a shackle is superior to just the pin seems odd to me.

Now, if you are not pulling straight on (going to be very situation dependant) I can see that a shackle could help for the force distribution and I image some weird things happen with the sloppy tolerances that most of these receivers have pulling at an angle that will likely bind the receiver in the hitch which could absorb some of the stress. (similar to the friction forces holding you wheel to your hub vs the lugs holding it in shear but to lesser degree)

I think we all agree that taking proper precautions is by far the most important thing (IE equipment in good condition, people outside the line of fire, don't get a racing start etc). When you start not respecting the forces involved is where people get hurt.

As mentioned previously a Tow strap is not a Snatch strap..........
 
Less than the WLL on a 5/8 hitch pin. :D

The WLL on a typical 1/2" shackle is 4,000-6,000lbs. The de-rate for a side pull gets down to as low as 2k lbs. A 3/4 shackle will get you up to 10-13,000lbs. Again a side pull drops that low enough that you could be well under the WLL of a recovery winch. And if you assume a safety factor of 5, you could very well have a failure of a cheap 1/2" shackle on a side pull with a winch or a recovery strap. Many 8-10k rated winches will pull 12-14k lbs of static line pull. And the 1/2" shackle may be the weakest point that will fail before the winch rope. That could actually be very dangerous.

My biggest question is why manufacture an inherently worse design when it's free to build a better one?

A rated 1/2" shackle has a WLL of 2 tons. With a safety factor of 5 the actual breaking strength is 10 tons. Your strap or winch line will break long before the shackle does, provided you're using an appropriate line or strap.

Some of you guys talking about using 30,000lb snatch straps must wonder what the elasticity in the strap is supposed to be. You're never going to get any stretch out of a 30,000lb strap with a 5-6,000lb vehicle. ~17,000lbs is all you need for a typical Toyota 4x4. Also, if you are using a 30,000lb strap but still using a 1/2" shackle, the strap might not be your weakest point any more (as it should be).
 
i use the smittybuilt shackle receiever and an ARB 8000 snatch strap, works great together, i've pulled many vehicles and an expedition hung up on a curb, and another expedition on a trail.
 
A rated 1/2" shackle has a WLL of 2 tons. With a safety factor of 5 the actual breaking strength is 10 tons. Your strap or winch line will break long before the shackle does, provided you're using an appropriate line or strap.

Sure, but that's with a straight pull. With a 90* side pull, assuming the derate is correct in relation to actual failure, your breaking strength is only 5 tons. Most winches will pull more than 5 tons. Many straps are also rated for a tensile strength of significantly more than 5 tons. And it's only an issue because someone decided to drill a hole the wrong way. It's not like this is an inherent limitation on hitch mounted shackles. It's just a poor design choice.

It would be fun to have a press and scale that could measure the forces and do some destructive testing.
 
why is that a bad thing? at least you know its tight.

I have lost pins before, because they weren't tight enough. typically I have a strap attached to my rear recover point at all times. its just good habit to always tighten the pin, so it doesn't vibrate out.

Was not saying good or bad but was just asking why because its different from what I've always been taught and have done. I guess the lesson is IF you don't turn it back a bit make sure you have tools ready to loosen it. This much I know for sure. I will continue to do as before until there is compelling reason to change :cheers:
 
different applications

Was not saying good or bad but was just asking why because its different from what I've always been taught and have done. I guess the lesson is IF you don't turn it back a bit make sure you have tools ready to loosen it. This much I know for sure. I will continue to do as before until there is compelling reason to change :cheers:


we also have to consider the different applications. My comment was from my experience working in nuclear power plants. During my short 7 years of supervising crews rigging, I have yet to see a pin lock up on the shackle and not be able to loosen. I have however seen pins bent and shackle body's open up because the pin wasn't seated. We have very strict inspection criteria, so if they get distorted we mark them NFG.

You (and others) were talking from a self rescue or bailing someone else out point of view. In those situations you would do and use whatever resources to get you out.

For the others discussing side loading- This is an option:
Safety Swivel Hoist Ring On Actek Manufacturing & Engineering (I dont know how to embed a picture)

Safety swivel hoist rings will rotate and angle best in line with the pull. There for eliminating any side loading from off center or off plane pulls. I have yet to see this. One could take hitch and drill/Tap a blind hole for the appropriate sized swivel hoist rings.
 
we also have to consider the different applications. My comment was from my experience working in nuclear power plants. During my short 7 years of supervising crews rigging, I have yet to see a pin lock up on the shackle and not be able to loosen. I have however seen pins bent and shackle body's open up because the pin wasn't seated. We have very strict inspection criteria, so if they get distorted we mark them NFG.

You (and others) were talking from a self rescue or bailing someone else out point of view. In those situations you would do and use whatever resources to get you out.

I'm not even smart enough to visit a nuke power plant, forget about working in one. But, even pilling logs with my ATV winch I've had the pin bind when a friend who was helping forgot to turn in back a bit. Took much cursing and a tool or two to get it loose. Happened as well recovering a stuck jeep when I let the jeepsters secure his end. Of course he had no tools so I had him do the curing while I got out my box.

So, fair warning to anybody that if you don't turn it back at least have the tools ready. And I give curse lessons on the third Wednesday every other month. :yo:
 
I'm not even smart enough to visit a nuke power plant, forget about working in one. But, even pilling logs with my ATV winch I've had the pin bind when a friend who was helping forgot to turn in back a bit. Took much cursing and a tool or two to get it loose. Happened as well recovering a stuck jeep when I let the jeepsters secure his end. Of course he had no tools so I had him do the curing while I got out my box.

So, fair warning to anybody that if you don't turn it back at least have the tools ready. And I give curse lessons on the third Wednesday every other month. :yo:

I dont know the specifics-- but Id say there must be some side loading to some degree to cause the pin to torque down. And I mentioned hand tight before- really finger tight. I honesty haven't seen that many bind up to where we had to get a wrench on it.

But sounds like you are always prepared, so that's all that matters.

Good discussion
 
I dont know the specifics-- but Id say there must be some side loading to some degree to cause the pin to torque down. And I mentioned hand tight before- really finger tight. I honesty haven't seen that many bind up to where we had to get a wrench on it.

But sounds like you are always prepared, so that's all that matters.

Good discussion

if the pin can get tighter during a pull, why cant it also get looser?

I just don't see how that's even happening.

if there is a loop on the pin, how is it turning?
 
Hopefully the following will help some of you guys understand that not all pulls, recoveries and methods are the same. This was my answer to a front mounted hitch question a few years ago. It applies to rear shackles too.

Alright [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION], you have officially asked me the most complex question to date! So here goes:

(disclaimer: in order to understand this explanation you need to understand physics and upper level math. In order to not reinvent the wheel I pulled selected links from the internet to help with the explanations. Everything here applies to a general condition but every recovery is unique with it's own set of challenges. Use this information at your own risk because recovering a vehicle is inherently dangerous. The data presented looks correct to me but I did not go through and check every single formula or conversion. I will try to write this so non engineers and physicists will understand. Use this as a general guide only!)

In reality, the recovery point on a vehicle is important, but not as important as the recovery method or equipment.
Let's start by addressing the actual question of "Is a front mounted receiver safe for a vehicle recovery?" The answer is, you guessed it, yes and no lol. Let me explain:

Without knowing the actual material specs of the hitch and the actual conditions in which the recovery is taking place I cannot tell you whether the hitch mount will fail. If the manufacturers tell you the rating though you should take that number as gospel. But in reality, what does this rating mean?

Well, the rating has to be used in context. Eddie mentioned that a "winch pull would be gentle and a hard tug would put more force on the vehicle." That could be true or not. If you are making a STATIC recovery (vehicle is stationary and a winch or come along is being used for example) the loads being transmitted will be more constant (instead of gentle) compared to a DYNAMIC recovery (vehicle is stationary and pulling vehicle is moving) that means forces will change considerably. Let's take a few examples:

Example 1: Vehicle is stuck and a winch is being used with wire rope connected to another vehicle.
In this example, the winch puts out a known force. The vehicle that is the "tie down" vehicle is a known weight and we all know that force required to slide the tie down vehicle across the dirt is much less than the weight of the vehicle right? This is a static recovery, for all intents and purposes used here today. This method is used quite often and is very straightforward. There is minimal rope stretch and the forces transmitted will be limited to the force required to slide the anchor vehicle or get the vehicle unstuck. You can also keep going and if your winch has enough pulling force this will continue until something fails. The math here is simple: Winch develops “X” amount of force on “Y” wrap and “Z” force is required to break free the stuck vehicle. If your components are good for the “Z” force you will be fine. If not, well...

Example 2: Vehicle is stuck and another vehicle is pulling it with a recovery strap.
This is an example of a DYNAMIC recovery. The strap is designed to stretch and by doing so will “ramp up” the transmitted forces. It will go from zero to maximum forces required to break the vehicle free from it’s position, the total amount of force able to be generated or until something fails.

Now THIS math is quite a bit different. It’s one thing to have something at rest, or static. It’s a different ball game when something is moving! The math, while straightforward, might require a primer. I have included a few links here:

This link should be used to understand the concepts Kinetic energy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This link should be used to better understand the relationships of vehicle dynamics http://filebox.vt.edu/users/hrakha/P...on Model.pdf

This is a nice link explaining recovery straps and their strength properties How To Choose A Recovery Strap Or Tow Strap - YouTube

Here is another link on the basic equipment needed for recovery Road to Recovery

And here is a link that goes through the math of making an actual recovery Offroadtb.com Dynamic Recovery

I have taken an excerpt from this last link that you should find pertinent to this conversation. In these series of calculations he is showing the differences of using a proper recovery strap, a static strap (non stretch) and a chain. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS POST! Why? [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] asked me if using a front hitch was a safe recovery point. I answered “yes” and no” and the following explanation will justify my answer. As you will see in his three examples, just by changing the equipment has changed the transmitted forces tremendously!

“The effects of using a non-dynamic connector:
We’ll use an average 5,000 lb vehicle as our example recovering vehicle. The two vehicles are attached with the strap, loose at first. The recovering vehicle proceeds forward with a bit of gas, reaching only 5 mph when reaching the end of the strap. At this point the vehicle has gathered kinetic energy equal to 1/2*mass*velocity^2.
KE = 0.5 * 5000 lb * (5 mi/hr)^2 = 5.7 kJ
We will assume for this instance that the stuck vehicle will remain stuck and will not budge (worst case)… so all of the recovering vehicle’s energy transfers into the strap and is turned into elastic potential energy. This stored energy will be equal to the kinetic energy that the truck had. This stored energy relates to the force exerted on each end by the following: energy = average force * distance. The distance is how far the strap stretches. The average force is assuming the rope exerts constant force, which ours does not. Because it’s force exerted most closely resembles a linear relationship to the stretch, the average force should be multiplied by 2 to get the maximum exerted force (which is all we are interested in here)… assuming the system reaches equilibrium without failure.

In instance 1, we will use a dynamic strap, which can stretch about 6 feet.
5.7 kJ / (6 ft) * 2 = 2,089 lbf (well within the safe range of most straps)

For instance 2, we used a static strap, which we will assume stretches only 4 inches before reaching equilibrium.
5.7 kJ / (4 in) * 2 = 25,072 lbf (enough to snap a strap or possibly rack your frame)

For the last instance, what if we used a chain, which has extremely minimal stretch. So we will say 0.5″…
5.7 kJ / (0.5 in) * 2 = 200,576 lbf (you will certainly break something!!)

So, I hope this gives you a real world, numerical understanding of why dynamic straps should ALWAYS be used in dynamic vehicle-to-vehicle recoveries.
* I did not show unit conversions for the sake of simplicity (there were a lot)”

Well! Now you guys should see that not all pulls are created equal! Same conditions, same vehicles, the only thing that changed was the connecting method!
I have used all three methods of connection in the past. We have even taken a hydraulic cylinder with a pressure gauge attached, mounted the cylinder in the connecting straps and used the pressure to measure the force developed during drawbar pull tests. These ratios are very close to our actual testing conclusions.

So, to summarize, IF you use the proper methods for recovery a front mounted receiver with the proper hooks should be fine. Even the OEM hooks will suffice with the proper recovery technique. I hope this answers your questions. Oh, don’t try to use these calculations for your own application unless you really understand the math. This guy left out a LOT of steps and conversions but it kept it simple and easy to understand.
 
You know I love you Greg but no way in hell I'm reading all that :sorry: :cheers:

I love you too Dave but that's immaterial...
Read this:

In instance 1, we will use a dynamic strap, which can stretch about 6 feet.
5.7 kJ / (6 ft) * 2 = 2,089 lbf (well within the safe range of most straps)

For instance 2, we used a static strap, which we will assume stretches only 4 inches before reaching equilibrium.
5.7 kJ / (4 in) * 2 = 25,072 lbf (enough to snap a strap or possibly rack your frame)

For the last instance, what if we used a chain, which has extremely minimal stretch. So we will say 0.5″…
5.7 kJ / (0.5 in) * 2 = 200,576 lbf (you will certainly break something!!)

2,000 lbf
25,000 lbf
200,000 lbf

Those three numbers are what your shackle could see (instantaneous) depending on which method you use. Choose wisely my son...
 

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