Is it easy to install a dual battery Update last post

[bring_it_on]

No need to swap out the alternator. Just buy a voltage booster ( see THIS thread ) or a simple battery tender that has the correct charge profile for AGM ( something like THIS would work fine) and just clamp it to the battery every now and then to get the battery back up. Even if you don't do that, your G-34 will work just fine but its better to do one of these things so that you get the most life and capacity out of your battery.

 

[Signal]

Well I just connected my new light bar and man that thing is bright. Here is what I will be adding. Winch, which will be connected to the stock battery, A extreme led x6s light bar which I don't mind connecting to the stock battery since I will only be using it when the Runner is running, and a fridge, which is where I get lost, I don't mind using solar for the fridge but I have no clue what to look for or where to start.

Also the fridge runs non stop right, I am new to this? I know the SS3's are plug and play so that's good, and I don't plan on adding any lights except for maybe some rear lights or lights on the Prinsu for some side camp lights. So I guess I really only need a solution for the fridge, I plan on upgrading the battery when it starts to go, it's a 19 to a optima battery or one of those others like a amg or whatever class you guys are talking about in this thread.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I just want a large capacity AGM to run my LED's a bit longer and charge a few items. I was thinking of doing a duel battery but many have said i could get away with a good AGM. I just have nonidea what AGM to look for.

Odyssey batteries are awesome, I switched over from Optimas on both my cars a few years back and have been ecstatic with my Odyssey's on both

 

[Ripper238]

Odyssey batteries are awesome, I switched over from Optimas on both my cars a few years back and have been ecstatic with my Odyssey's on both

Thanks! I put together a separate thread of where i am so far so not to overtake this one.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...-battery-time-needed-agm-g34.html#post3645743

Thanks all!

 

[bring_it_on]

Well I just connected my new light bar and man that thing is bright. Here is what I will be adding. Winch, which will be connected to the stock battery, A extreme led x6s light bar which I don't mind connecting to the stock battery since I will only be using it when the Runner is running, and a fridge, which is where I get lost, I don't mind using solar for the fridge but I have no clue what to look for or where to start.

Also the fridge runs non stop right, I am new to this? I know the SS3's are plug and play so that's good, and I don't plan on adding any lights except for maybe some rear lights or lights on the Prinsu for some side camp lights. So I guess I really only need a solution for the fridge, I plan on upgrading the battery when it starts to go, it's a 19 to a optima battery or one of those others like a amg or whatever class you guys are talking about in this thread.

What size fridge (and brand) do you have? Try to see if there is real world data on consumption that you can use to estimate your needs. Better still, try to measure its draw in the real world. I have a 52 L National Luna and some vehicle camp lights. I planned my bank assuming that on average I would be using 1.5A - 2A per hour or 36-48 Ah over a 24-hour timespan. My LiFePO4 is 50 Ah and I have 100 Watt of fixed and 60 watt of portable solar on hand.

Fridges do not run all the time. They cycle - a few minutes on to keep the temp and the compressor shuts down. The duty cycle will vary depending on a number of things - how you've packed it (empty fridge will cycle more often), ambient temperature, how often you open it, how well it is insulated, etc etc.

At the end of the day, if you are basically in need of a overnight camping setup where you are never stationary for more than 12 hours or so then you can probably just get away with a larger starter battery and a portable solar panel. A Group 27F is more than enough for that if you pair it with a 100 watt portable solar panel. You can carry a jump pack as an insurance. If, on the other hand, you want to camp a couple of days, then you are better off investing in a second battery with a DC-DC charger and some solar as a second source. With the cycle-life, and cost per cycle of a LiFePO4, I don't see any reason (unless its location, extreme cold/hot weather, etc) why one would want an AGM unless they want to install it in an engine bay setting.

 

[Signal]

What size fridge (and brand) do you have? Try to see if there is real world data on consumption that you can use to estimate your needs. Better still, try to measure its draw in the real world. I have a 52 L National Luna and some vehicle camp lights. I planned my bank assuming that on average I would be using 1.5A - 2A per hour or 36-48 Ah over a 24-hour timespan. My LiFePO4 is 50 Ah and I have 100 Watt of fixed and 60 watt of portable solar on hand.

Fridges do not run all the time. They cycle - a few minutes on to keep the temp and the compressor shuts down. The duty cycle will vary depending on a number of things - how you've packed it (empty fridge will cycle more often), ambient temperature, how often you open it, how well it is insulated, etc etc.

At the end of the day, if you are basically in need of a overnight camping setup where you are never stationary for more than 12 hours or so then you can probably just get away with a larger starter battery and a portable solar panel. A Group 27F is more than enough for that if you pair it with a 100 watt portable solar panel. You can carry a jump pack as an insurance. If, on the other hand, you want to camp a couple of days, then you are better off investing in a second battery with a DC-DC charger and some solar as a second source. With the cycle-life, and cost per cycle of a LiFePO4, I don't see any reason (unless its location, extreme cold/hot weather, etc) why one would want an AGM unless they want to install it in an engine bay setting.

This is in out cart, Down here I would think it would run all the time it is almost 90+ with humidity all day.

Amazon.com: COSTWAY Car Refrigerator, 55-Quart Portable Compressor Freezer, -4degF to 50degF, Dual-Zone Electric Car Cooler with 3 Levels, LCD Display, Shockproof Design, RV Travel Fridge for Home, Camping (Gray): Automotive

 

[bring_it_on]

I don't know a whole lot about that particular fridge, but you could probably assume that it will be pulling about 40-50 Ah per day and build your bank for that. Again, if you are just looking at overnight trips then a decent AGM starter battery and some solar backup will be more than enough to get you through. With good sunlight you can probably even go for longer. If you are going to be planning longer duration trips, and will be cycling your battery more often (100% to 50% state of charge for AGM) then it may be better to just get a dedicated house battery. If short trips are all you do then I'd suggest you simply get a bigger AGM and go from there. Perhaps look at a portable lithium backup like a Jackery or something. Only go for a dual battery set up in case you are building for it to give you 2+ days of run time and/or plan on doing a lot of trips/often.

 

[Signal]

I don't know a whole lot about that particular fridge, but you could probably assume that it will be pulling about 40-50 Ah per day and build your bank for that. Again, if you are just looking at overnight trips then a decent AGM starter battery and some solar backup will be more than enough to get you through. With good sunlight you can probably even go for longer. If you are going to be planning longer duration trips, and will be cycling your battery more often (100% to 50% state of charge for AGM) then it may be better to just get a dedicated house battery. If short trips are all you do then I'd suggest you simply get a bigger AGM and go from there. Perhaps look at a portable lithium backup like a Jackery or something. Only go for a dual battery set up in case you are building for it to give you 2+ days of run time and/or plan on doing a lot of trips/often.

I might look into this and a spare battery just to power the fridge.I just don't know if it works with hood scoops.


Toyota 4Runner 4th & 5th Gen (2003-2020) Lensun 100W Hood Flexible Solar Panel

 

[Mack1611]

How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup

Read this... worked well for me.

How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50 | Expedition Portal

 

[Signal]

Read this... worked well for me.

How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50 | Expedition Portal

You did that and it worked? I don't want a fire.

 

[Mack1611]

Been running it for a couple of years now.

 

[Ripper238]

Odyssey batteries are awesome, I switched over from Optimas on both my cars a few years back and have been ecstatic with my Odyssey's on both

What size did u get?

It appears the 24f has more capacity than the 34?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

What size did u get?

It appears the 24f has more capacity than the 34?

I got the 34 because I wanted a direct replacement battery, the 34-PC1500T. If I had to do it over again, I would get the 34M-PC1500ST-M with the extra set of terminals, but I love my 34.

 

[Signal]

So I've read a ton of threads on the duel battery topic and I am going to start sourcing parts. Here is the list if I am missing anything please let me know.

2 of these Fuse blocks
1 of these
Smart Solenoid ????
1 of these
Battery tray
2 of these and a few incase they get blown
Fuses

I just don't know if I will need a new fuse box for the lightbar and fridge and what's a good fuse box to get.

 

[yourfriendcasey]

Many folks here run the Northstar Group 27F as a single large battery. One option is to buy the Tundra battery tray that will fit a 27F. A Group 31 AGM will also fit in the stock location. Depending on what size LED's we are talking about, a simple upgrade to a Group 34 AGM should be more than plenty for your use case.

Here are a couple of good AGM options (make sure to check the terminals)

Group 34 - Will fit with existing tray -

Just a moment...

Group 27 - Need to remove the tray and mount it directly on metal or buy a Tundra battery tray

X2Power Premium AGM BCI Group 27F Car and Truck Battery - SLI27FAGMDP at Batteries Plus Bulbs

I know I'm reviving an old thread here, but just wanted to chime in and say that you don't need to do anything to put in an 27f. It fits the stock battery tray on a 4th gen without any modifications whatsoever.

I see no reason why you'd want to put in a group 34, its smaller than both the 27f and the 24f. And costs the same amount as the 24f. I have the exact powerx2 27f battery you linked above and its worked wonderfully.

Regarding the dual-battery debate, I'd recommend against using your starting battery for running a fridge unless you have a reliable way to jump your car. Keep your fridge on the lowest battery protection setting. Even on the lowest setting for most fridges, it will bring you into risky territory for your car not starting in the morning by the time it kills the fridge. If you want something simple, look into an ecoflow or similar power bank. Expensive but less expensive than a dual-battery setup and you will probably find a ton of use for it other than running your cooler. Plus you can take your cooler out of the car and bring it anywhere.

Also have to consider that dual battery adds a ton of weight, and if you're using an AGM battery, you are only getting 1/2 of the advertised AH in usable power. 100AH AGM battery= only 50AH of usable power. If you want a bigger battery built-into your vehicle, get a LifePo4 and a dc-dc charger. Way less weight, WAY longer-lasting battery, and nowadays they are cheaper. You can discharge them pretty much 100% so you actually get the advertised AH in usable energy.