Is my transmission shot?

A

a216vcti

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I have a 04/1999 build date calif 4x4 3.4 v6 4runner with 256k that is not moving unless i redline it. Getting it towed back to my house at the moment. I was driving up a slight hill and it was revving really high. It seems like the trans isn't connected to the engine anymore. If i let it sit for a bit it will only move if i redline it but after driving a little bit it will feel stop accelerating no matter how much gas i give it. I can let it cool down again but it will do the same thing again. I checked the fluid and it looks like it is full. I was wondering if you guys think it's shot or maybe a fluid flush will fix it. Also, i check the coolant and it didn't seem to have any pink milkshake symptoms.

If the trans is shot, do you guys think it would be difficult to rebuild the trans by myself? Should i buy a used trans? Have a shop rebuild it? It seems like removing and reinstalling would be easy. I have a garage, would probably need a trans jack.
 
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auto trans right? if so, when you checked the fluid level, was the trans fluid fully warmed up and truck running? if not, that's where I'd start. since you can't drive it, maybe let it run for a while switching into the different gears to warm up the fluid. once it's fully warmed up (158-176F if you have a trans fluid temp gauge), switch into each gear down to L and then back to park (with foot on the brake of course). then check it while it's still running in park, should be at the hot level (upper notch on the stick). kinda sounds like what happened when I changed my trans fluid, just not as extreme. my trans would slip a little bit starting out until I topped it off.
 
I have seen the filter/screen get clogged and cause this very type of thing so try to r and the filter with fluid but first check the condition of the fluid by smelling the fluid for burnt clutchs and color.

Always start with the cheap stuff first.
 
It's an auto, i just checked the fluid and it was definitely warm. The a/t oil temp light came on.

Xspsi6, which screen/filter are you referring to?
 
I think he means the filter inside the transmission pan. I suggest you read thru the FSM, starting on page 351, AT diagnostics. The first suspect is your ECM, there are instructions on how to test it. Next are mechanical tests both on vehicle (1. Transmission control rod, 2. Manual valve and 3. Parking lock pawl) and off vehicle tests (1 .O/D one-way clutch, 2. O/D direct clutch, 3. O/D planetary gear unit and 4. Torque converter clutch). I would follow the FSM's process of elimination.

I'm no tranny expert, but in my limited experience when I had that particular symptom, it meant the torque converter was gone. Hope that isn't the case for you. Luck.
 
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a216vcti said:
It's an auto, i just checked the fluid and it was definitely warm. The a/t oil temp light came on.

Xspsi6, which screen/filter are you referring to?
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Ok so that means it over heated the trans so most likely it needs a rebuild but still pull the pan and change the filter as a last ditch effort the a/t oil temp warning light tells the whole story.
 
CallMeAnEngineer said:
How long have you went since your last trans fluid flush & trans fluid filter change?
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I recently bought the car (01/14), so never. I was planning on servicing everything with gears eventually. From what I'm reading in the service manual, it looks like the torque converter might be shot. I doubt the ecm is the problem.
 
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xspsi6 said:
Ok so that means it over heated the trans so most likely it needs a rebuild but still pull the pan and change the filter as a last ditch effort the a/t oil temp warning light tells the whole story.
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So what exactly is the whole story? Trans is toast? I found a used trans for $400 in PA. Should I buy it?
 
a216vcti said:
So what exactly is the whole story? Trans is toast? I found a used trans for $400 in PA. Should I buy it?
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If it's the torque converter, like you think, it'll be cheaper just to replace that. Also, I wouldn't say it's "shot." It still works (to some extent, at least), does it not? :P
 
a216vcti said:
So what exactly is the whole story? Trans is toast? I found a used trans for $400 in PA. Should I buy it?
Click to expand...

I'm by no means an expert but I've had 3 vehicles over the years which experienced transmission failures. The fact the a/t temp light has come on is a bad sign... I believe that point is 260 degrees...indicating its very-much overheated. If indeed its cooked, the torque converter maybe damaged, clutch and bands burnt. etc. You can try dropping the pan and checking for bits of metal and cleaning the filter/strainer and fluid, as this is the cheapest first.
Try: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf

The only catastrophic failure I experienced was in a Mazda 323--- it was working, then I parked, came back and after a short drive, shifting stopped and when I pulled over, it wouldn't shift into gear again. I never smelt burning and the fluid wasn't burnt--- this was a internal mech. failure. The other two, over time, started slipping, even though I changed fluids etc. They were high mileage vehicles....

Try JDM... I'm in the process of an engine replacement I bought from a company back east who deal in Japanese used parts... its an option over generally high mileage American wreckers... its one option.

Good luck!
 
I must be the only guy on this forum that hasn't sipped the JDM Koolaid. My advice, buy the $400 trans. For $400 and a long Saturday, problem solved.
 
PitbullRescuer said:
I must be the only guy on this forum that hasn't sipped the JDM Koolaid. My advice, buy the $400 trans. For $400 and a long Saturday, problem solved.
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Yeah, there's so many different differences just as it is for my US 4runner. I'm sure throwing in the complications of the trans being from Japan would give me more nightmares.

That makes me wonder, is there any difference between a Calif. trans vs. a Fed trans? I know there's a split in 05/99. But I can't imagine what emissions would have to do with the trans.

Also, I have the manual for the 2002 4runner, is the procedure to remove that trans similar to removing the 99 without the awd?
 
541joseph said:
you basically need a donor truck right there because buying the individual parts gets expensive
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Oh, sorry, yeah, you were right about the google search answering that question. I did that right after posting and then deleted my post.

I still need to know if there is any difference between the transmission on a California vs. Federal emissions 4runner.
 
a216vcti said:
...I found a used trans for $400 in PA. Should I buy it?
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Maybe. What year did you find? Again, no tranny expert here (where are they?), I know this much, starting in 2001 (maybe 2000) the trans went electronic, so you probably have to stick with a 99 or earlier for the non-electronic aspect. I would go the used tranny route (assuming some kind of guarantee comes with it) and bolt it in yourself.

The Cali models became the Fed models starting in 2001, same except for the electronic trans again. I would not think the trans is different in pre-electronic yrs between the Cali and Fed but maybe some expert (where are they again) would know for sure. Maybe a local trans shop knows (dealers knowledge base can really suck!). Luck.
 
This really is a simple diagnosis... Smell/inspect the fluid if it has a burnt smell or dark color then drop the pan to change the filter and replace the fluid if you have the fluid topped off after the install then attempt to drive it and if no change then the clutches are worn/warped and you then either need a used trans or a rebuild but the tq converter is the last thing I would look at but like I said the trans temp light makes it very clear to me as a tech as to what is going on.
 
a216vcti said:
Oh, sorry, yeah, you were right about the google search answering that question. I did that right after posting and then deleted my post.

I still need to know if there is any difference between the transmission on a California vs. Federal emissions 4runner.
Click to expand...

They are the same.
 
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