I want to get a 4 runner instead of the sienna van, because of the sludge issues. Is the i4 on the 4runner bullet proof? I plan on using it as a tow vehicle for 3000 lb trailer. Is there anything I should know or look out for? I love 4 cylinders due to their reliability and fuel economy when I'm not towing. Hopefully the 2wd won't be in high demand and I can score a deal. What should I expect to pay for a 96-99 with 180k+ miles? Thanks a lot!
Is the 2wd with 2.7 4-cylinder easy to find for cheap?
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IBallEngineer
New member
I would not tow 3000 lbs. with a 4cyl 4runner. I have a 2000 with 180K and I tow with it, alot. But just towing 1000 lbs kills the drive-ability and the fuel economy. I can't imagine trying to tow 3K with mine. I have a Tacoma with the 3.4 and although it CAN tow 3000 lbs, I wouldn't make it my tow vehicle.
But to answer your first question, yes the 2.4 is awesome bullet proof, timing chain instead of a belt, and it just runs.
3rzrunner
Member
fixed it for you^
The 2.7L 3rz-fe engine is and awesome, bulletproof engine.
it is semi rare in a 2wd but much more rare in a 4wd.
I wouldn't tow 3000lbs with the 4banger either, even with the v6 on hills you will be crawling.
UnderFire
New member
Also consider that you'll have 3.73 or 3.90 gears in a stock 4 cylinder 2WD, and that'll make the towing that much worse, it's not a tow vehicle at all, the 3RZ is sufficient for pulling around the 4Runner and whatever you can fit inside of it, and not much else in all honesty.
Dre's runner
New member
I towed a 12 by 6 enclosed trailer for years with my tacoma. Not sure of the weight but it had a zero turn toro and a smaller mower and weedeaters and various lawn tools. Couldn't get out of 4th gear but I put 250,000 miles on it. Also towed a 20ft key largo for a while with it. Granted I live in flat south Florida so that helps. 3000lbs isn't that much. Towing rating for the 4 bangers are 3500. That being said my tacoma had low range which got me out of more than a few boat ramps.
Dre's runner
New member
Oh and my Tacoma was a 2.7 5 speed 4wd.
Kryptoroxx
New member
4runners came with 4.10 in the diff with a 4cyl.
Depends on how far and how often. I've towed cars with the 2.4l and tandem axle trailers with the 2.7 and while the trip wasn't great it did get there and nothing blew up. Both of those were automatics. The auto with a 2.7 is a slug for towing imo.
If you get a 5spd 3k will not be horrible especially if you tow where it is decently flat. The 3rz does respond very well to a set of tube headers and cat back system along with a piggyback tuner. That will help a lot. The bigger issue will be stopping since they came with smaller brakes. Just toss the tbu under it and that will solve that issue.
All in all though test drive it first and see how you like it.
IBallEngineer
New member
That's what I'm sayin', 2.7 Auto is what I drive, it is slow, real slow, no really really slow. And that is before I tow anything.
UnderFire
New member
I've only checked 2, but mine that was originally 2WD 5 Speed came with 3.73, and the other was 3.90, teeth counted on both, not just going by the door tag.
Kryptoroxx
New member
Hmm well mine might be different as it is a stock 4wd?
Scramble
New member
It depends what wheels the truck comes with. 15" wheels come with 3.90
gears. My 2.7 came with the 16" wheels & the 4.10 gears. I have no problems towing my 19' Cuddy Cabin which I'm sure is under 3000lbs with the trailer. I have a manual & 4x4 so pulling my boat out of the lake isn't a problem.
gears. My 2.7 came with the 16" wheels & the 4.10 gears. I have no problems towing my 19' Cuddy Cabin which I'm sure is under 3000lbs with the trailer. I have a manual & 4x4 so pulling my boat out of the lake isn't a problem.
UnderFire
New member
I "think" that's the difference, 4WD should all be 4.10 unless it's a special package (usually 4.56 if it is).
Mine was 2WD, 15" wheels, 235 tires FWIW.
Scramble
New member
I dont think the 4x4's with 15" wheels are 4.10. If you ordered the e-locker from the factory you got a higher gear set.
I bought the same 4Runner you are considering in 2010, a 98 with 159k miles. I have had my 4Runner for almost 5 years and 100k miles. It is the most rugged, capable vehicle I have known. You should be able to find one in very nice shape for under $4,000. I bought mine in Dallas and took a flight to pick it up. There are no issues with sludge.
The only money I have spent on engine repairs are to re-seal the timing chain cover. The timing belt in the 3.4 runs dry but requires periodic replacement. The 2/7's timing chain has no replacement interval but may require re-sealing. There is no particular advantage to the 2.7 with that respect.
A 3.4 liter SR5 4x5 and its 2.7 liter 2WD cousin share a bunch of hardware:
- Frame
- Transmission
- Radiator
The SR5 is heavier, because of the larger motor and 4WD components.
I get 19.5 MPG in the winter and 23.5 MPG in the summer. That is pencil and paper, week in and week out. I have gotten 27 for a tank, and 17 when towing. If it runs right, you should expect at least that. I haven't towed 3000 lbs, but I have towed my Polaris ATV a good bit, which I think is 1500 lbs.
I have upgraded the tires and wheels to 16" to have more choices, and to make room for brakes. I run winter tires from November to March, for ski/snowmobile season. It goes everywhere I need to go. I don't like to get stuck, so I drive it reasonably and carry a set of chains.
I added an extra transmission cooler in series with a new radiator. Don't drive around with a 20 year old radiator. See "pink milkshake". Headlights should be upgraded to 2002 spec. It only takes a few minutes, and it's well worth it.
The brakes are upgraded to Tundra brakes, and have lasted 50k miles per set. The Autozone warranty is 3 years, so I am just out time to swap them out. The Tundra brakes work on steep passes, and when they warp it is still driveable. The brakes should be done no matter what 4Runner you buy.
The DOHC engine likes to rev. When climbing hills with the 2.7 downshift early and keep it at 3500 RPM. When towing there is that awkward time at the summit when towing when it wants to go to 2nd gear at 4500 RPM to maintain 55 MPH. That is more noise than I like, I usually just slow down when it shifts to 2nd, and keep 3500 RPM.
With the rugged frame construction you can go places I would be afraid to go in a van. If you need a little more speed to get through just go for it. There are skid plates everywhere.
2WD is more like a station wagon than a off road vehicle. It is lower to the ground, and the tires are smaller. I think it still has a high center of gravity compared to a Subaru. I slow down on snow packed roads, more than I would in a car. Every winter I see too many 4Runners, especially lifted ones, that have been rolled. This could be a false sense of security, from too much capability.
2WD doesn't require as much insurance. You can upgrade the tires, brakes, interior, headlights etc. If you wreck the body, most of the upgrades will survive. You could pull all of your upgrades and attach them to your next 2WD, then sell the hulk. This may be easier than finding another 4WD with all the right stuff (e-locker, etc.).
A couple of upgrades I have considered: an e-locker, or air locker, would be great for pulling trailers out snow packed parking spaces. Especially with chains on. And going to a 4.30 rear axle might be just the tweak the 2.7 needs to get the engine more in the power band at highway speeds.
I haven't driven a 3.4, so I can't talk about how fast or slow they are. On hills around Denver, the 4WD 4Runners pull away from me on hills, but not nearly as fast as a turbo Subaru. So I think we may be in the same ball park. The local guys also know the hills a lot better, so they know when to speed up.
A good compromise may be a V6 2WD. You may save most of the purchase price by not getting 4WD. But you can feel safe knowing that you bought the biggest motor you could.
Given what I have spent and the fun we have had with it, I would buy another one configured the same way. Good luck with what you choose.
The only money I have spent on engine repairs are to re-seal the timing chain cover. The timing belt in the 3.4 runs dry but requires periodic replacement. The 2/7's timing chain has no replacement interval but may require re-sealing. There is no particular advantage to the 2.7 with that respect.
A 3.4 liter SR5 4x5 and its 2.7 liter 2WD cousin share a bunch of hardware:
- Frame
- Transmission
- Radiator
The SR5 is heavier, because of the larger motor and 4WD components.
I get 19.5 MPG in the winter and 23.5 MPG in the summer. That is pencil and paper, week in and week out. I have gotten 27 for a tank, and 17 when towing. If it runs right, you should expect at least that. I haven't towed 3000 lbs, but I have towed my Polaris ATV a good bit, which I think is 1500 lbs.
I have upgraded the tires and wheels to 16" to have more choices, and to make room for brakes. I run winter tires from November to March, for ski/snowmobile season. It goes everywhere I need to go. I don't like to get stuck, so I drive it reasonably and carry a set of chains.
I added an extra transmission cooler in series with a new radiator. Don't drive around with a 20 year old radiator. See "pink milkshake". Headlights should be upgraded to 2002 spec. It only takes a few minutes, and it's well worth it.
The brakes are upgraded to Tundra brakes, and have lasted 50k miles per set. The Autozone warranty is 3 years, so I am just out time to swap them out. The Tundra brakes work on steep passes, and when they warp it is still driveable. The brakes should be done no matter what 4Runner you buy.
The DOHC engine likes to rev. When climbing hills with the 2.7 downshift early and keep it at 3500 RPM. When towing there is that awkward time at the summit when towing when it wants to go to 2nd gear at 4500 RPM to maintain 55 MPH. That is more noise than I like, I usually just slow down when it shifts to 2nd, and keep 3500 RPM.
With the rugged frame construction you can go places I would be afraid to go in a van. If you need a little more speed to get through just go for it. There are skid plates everywhere.
2WD is more like a station wagon than a off road vehicle. It is lower to the ground, and the tires are smaller. I think it still has a high center of gravity compared to a Subaru. I slow down on snow packed roads, more than I would in a car. Every winter I see too many 4Runners, especially lifted ones, that have been rolled. This could be a false sense of security, from too much capability.
2WD doesn't require as much insurance. You can upgrade the tires, brakes, interior, headlights etc. If you wreck the body, most of the upgrades will survive. You could pull all of your upgrades and attach them to your next 2WD, then sell the hulk. This may be easier than finding another 4WD with all the right stuff (e-locker, etc.).
A couple of upgrades I have considered: an e-locker, or air locker, would be great for pulling trailers out snow packed parking spaces. Especially with chains on. And going to a 4.30 rear axle might be just the tweak the 2.7 needs to get the engine more in the power band at highway speeds.
I haven't driven a 3.4, so I can't talk about how fast or slow they are. On hills around Denver, the 4WD 4Runners pull away from me on hills, but not nearly as fast as a turbo Subaru. So I think we may be in the same ball park. The local guys also know the hills a lot better, so they know when to speed up.
A good compromise may be a V6 2WD. You may save most of the purchase price by not getting 4WD. But you can feel safe knowing that you bought the biggest motor you could.
Given what I have spent and the fun we have had with it, I would buy another one configured the same way. Good luck with what you choose.
4runever&ever
New member
Purchasing a 98 from grandpa 4 cylinder with 260miles. Not worries about towing or offloading, live in San Diego so weather isn't an issue, will not be my daily driver, maybe 2-3 a week. What did you mean by, "4.30 rear axle might be just the tweak the 2.7 needs to get the engine more in the power band at highway speeds."??
Grandpa selling it for 2k, I would prefer the V6 but the prices are absurd here in SD. What do you think?
Grandpa selling it for 2k, I would prefer the V6 but the prices are absurd here in SD. What do you think?
phattyduck
Elite Member
It'll never be a powerhouse unless you modify it. It'll just about get out of its own way, which is fine for a daily driver. As long as you aren't going offroad or to snow, it'll be a good vehicle.
-Charlie
a 3RZ-FE with 260k miles ought to have its valve clearances checked ASAP. That is, if there hasn't been a documented check in the past 50k or so.
I've worked on or owned 3 of these engines, and one of the 2.4 cousins (the 2RZ-FE in 2WD Tacomas) and in my experience once they hit 150k a clearance check every 30k will find a few exhaust clearances working their way to 0.
Consider a compression check - reasonably easy to do - if nothing else before parting with your money.
I've worked on or owned 3 of these engines, and one of the 2.4 cousins (the 2RZ-FE in 2WD Tacomas) and in my experience once they hit 150k a clearance check every 30k will find a few exhaust clearances working their way to 0.
Consider a compression check - reasonably easy to do - if nothing else before parting with your money.
