Issue with door lock

williamlv282

New member
My driver door lock actuator stopped working recently. It won't unlock or lock with the switch at all, I have to manually unlock it and lock it every time.

Is this a pretty common issue? I haven't really seen any other threads about it but mine stopped working with only 22,000 miles on the odometer.

I'm going to take it in to get it fixed soon, hopefully warranty covers it. If not, is it an easy fix? My old Mazda had this problem and it was a huge pain in the ass to take the door apart and fix it.
 
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Warranty!!!

I just replaced the assembly in my daughter 2011 Camry at 90,000 miles. It seems common on them. You are the first 4Runner I know of.
 
I know I read a few posts about people having to replace their door lock actuators in this section, so its not as uncommon as you may think. In fact, I believe someone replaced theirs 3 or 4 times.

Try searching for "actuator" in the 5th gen section, there's several posts about them.
 
I have the same problem. I am on my 3rd one going out. I have searched all the posts and have only seen two possible solutions... 1. Buying a small actuator motor to replace the existing one. They have used it on certain Lexus vehicles, but they are not sure if it will work on a 4runner. 2. They had a link to a remanufactured actuator on ebay. The ebay item does not exist on the link, so we are unable to see what would work.

Does anyone know how I can find out the part numbers for the actuators that I need?
 
I know I read a few posts about people having to replace their door lock actuators in this section, so its not as uncommon as you may think. In fact, I believe someone replaced theirs 3 or 4 times.

Try searching for "actuator" in the 5th gen section, there's several posts about them.

My bad, I searched "door lock" and didn't find anything. Now I see another post about actuators that got bumped to the top so I guess this thread is redundant.
 
I've had this or something similar happen immediately after replacing the two front door speakers. All of the doors power harnesses and cables appeared that they were seated back in their connectors, so now I was collecting all of the plastic 'push-rivets' that will typically fall to the ground during the initial inner door trim panel removal stage.

When I was done snapping it all back together I cranked up on the volume. Then I went cruisin' the main strip near my house; windows all the way down, sun-roof opened up wide; ...it was like I was 16-17 yrs old all over again, checkin' out the crude display of massively 'over-built' rear-ends; "and I don't mean the ones twistin' the '3.73' or '4.11 ring/pinion lol!"

When I parked I was suprised to notice that the lock on the passenger side wouldn't lock or unlock electronically, but they would function in manual mode only! Upon that discovery I removed the door trim panel once again (takes two minutes), looked at the lock solenoid connector and found that the latch had become partially unlatched.

Funny thing is, it looked latched but upon closer inspection you could see that it was not fully latched. I disconnected it and then reconnected it again making sure that it got latched in! My suggestion would be to take your harness(s) apart, and then relatch them just to be certain that continuity is good! 'Best to you'!

rig
 
Here's a suggestion, and while I have not really looked at the actuators in the 4 runner's doors, these are pretty simple units for the most part. Its literally a motor with some gears that force a plunger in and out. If the plunger is not working at all, the motor has either burnt out or it has a break in the wire. Whether the break is internal windings on that motor or somewhere else inside the unit (I assume the break is inside the unit since replacing just the unit fixes the problem), a few things could be done to repair the existing unit.

Pull the unit out and take it apart, see where the issue is. You could also try to locate just the motor itself, as I'm positive its being used in lots of other products, including electric mirrors, shavers, fans, etc. Places to look for these motors would be Digikey or Mouser, as well as Grainger and other online stores that carry electric motors.

Now, if the motor still turns and you can hear it running when you try to lock/unlock the door, then its the gears that are most likely stripped, and that tells me the motor is either too strong for the locking mechanism, the unit is pulsing way too long, or the throw on the actuator is too long. While harder to remedy, the only other things would be to fabricate (ie., jury rig!) some sort of rubber bushing where the actuator attaches to the door to give it some cushion to help from stripping again.

Of course, there is yet one other way to remedy this issue, especially if you just don't wanna screw with it at all! Head to your local higher-end audio/alarm shop, tell 'em you're tired of burning out your door lock actuators, and you want them to install a "high torque" actuator (I like the Crimestopper brand, that thing is STRONG!!!) in your doors! Its only two wires that control this unit, and unless Toyota decided to add the relays into the actuators, there should be just a 2-wire plug going into it.

And, if you're mechanically inclined and have time to spare, just pick the actuators up online, then determine the best way to mount it in your door. The unit comes with a rod and coupling hardware, although you will probably need to use some of the existing stuff in your door to make it functional. This is where McGuyvering stuff comes in handy!!! :flame:
 
I had my actuator fixed last month finally and it's already acting up again. When I go to lock the car some actuators go off but the car doesn't beep like it's locked. Back to the dealership I guess.
 

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