Issue with new RCI Sliders - Kickout hits rear door.

[chmura]

Issue with new RCI Sliders - Rear door his kickout

I ordered new RCI sliders for my 4runner, they came in couple days ago and I finally got a chance to install these. I started with the driver side first. All the threaded bolts lined up perfectly and I got two long screws in that go through the frame.

When I started tightening a few bolts I checked the clearance of the rear door. To my surprise the bottom of the rear door was hitting the kick out portion of the rear slider.

So I started checking how I can lower the slider a little bit. I noticed that if I unscrew two bolts I can lower the slider some. So I removed these two bolts and the slider came down some. So I started tightening the rest of the screws to see what clearance I gained by this.

I am not hitting the door now but I am VERY VERY close to hitting the door, 2mm or so. I doubt its this tight of a fit. What if I land on a rock and I bend the slider 1mm that means I cannot use my rear door anymore??

I do not want to lower the slider anymore. If I leave it now I would have to modify the the two holes shown in the picture and make them bigger. I believe the rear kick out angle is off.

How much space does people have with their sliders when they open the rear door??

I'm going to call Josh at RCI tomorrow and see what my options are. [MENTION=90834]joshp767[/MENTION]

Here is a picture of the two screws I removed to lower the slider some. I marked the screw with some sliver paint.

 

[zidaro]

i have Budbuilts on my 5th gen, and all pros on my 1st gen. they both have about +1/2" clearance of the door on swing. They do flex a bit when under load (sitting on a rock) but the doors still open. You will want a tiny bit of leeway IMO to allow for flex.

 

[chmura]

i have Budbuilts on my 5th gen, and all pros on my 1st gen. they both have about +1/2" clearance of the door on swing. They do flex a bit when under load (sitting on a rock) but the doors still open. You will want a tiny bit of leeway IMO to allow for flex.

Thanks for the feedback, 1/2+ inches sounds reasonable space to give the rear door enough clearance when opened.

 

[chmura]

So last night I put all the bolts into their respective holes in the picture above. So what I did was loosened all the TOP holes in the slider so I can angle the slider down some. In theory if I put some spacers/washers in between the TOP of the slider and the frame this will give a downward angle to allow clearance for the rear door. It would be a huge pain in the ass to get the washers through the bolts between the slider and the 4runners frame. This would mean I will have a very small gap between the slider mounting plate and the frame...

So what are my opinions here?

1. Do I call RCI and ask to return these?

2. Do I call RCI and ask for some money back for the troubles and try to fix these myself with putting spacers in between the slider and frame?

Little bit disappointed since these are not necessarily cheap and having these clearance issues.

I paid $65 to shipping. Not much for RCI to eat the shipping cost and make a customer happy.

 

[Nyc-Runner]

That's a bummer man! As much as it sucks I would probably send them back to RCI and have them either correct the issue themselves and send you new ones or get a different brand of sliders. Obviously with them reimbursing for your shipping costs etc. I don't don't think you would want washers in between the mounting plates and the frame creating a gap especially up to a 1/2" I'm no expert but I would think that would create weak points if their not mounted flush especially if you plan to really use them up against rocks!

 

[chmura]

That's a bummer man! As much as it sucks I would probably send them back to RCI and have them either correct the issue themselves and send you new ones or get a different brand of sliders. Obviously with them reimbursing for your shipping costs etc. I don't don't think you would want washers in between the mounting plates and the frame creating a gap especially up to a 1/2" I'm no expert but I would think that would create weak points if their not mounted flush especially if you plan to really use them up against rocks!

Yeah I do not really want to put washers in between the frame and the slider to correct this issue.

I'll call RCI and ask them what are my options are in a couple hours.

 

[Drunner97]

Mine rub on the passenger side rear door, but I haven't gotten a chance to lower them back down. Fine on the driver side. I really wouldn't worry about it too much as long as it clears. With as beefy as these sliders are, if you land hard enough to bend it, you're landing hard enough to snap a bolt or two. If that's the case, you can pull them off and hammer it back into shape.

I am curious to see what RCI says though, because I think you're the 3rd person I've seen to have clearance issues. Seems to me they could have put the holes 1/4" higher so the slider would sit lower but otherwise I'm happy with them.

 

[JustinB]

Ran into the same issue. Rear doors hit kickouts on lowest mounting. Additionally, they flexed quite a bit when I jacked from the slider to lift the car off the ground, to the point that they are now slightly bent off of the frame where they mount. Obviously couldn't open any doors when the car was being supported by the slider. Mine also are touching the body mount up front (same one that gets chopped for big tires) and make nasty popping noises when they flex up and over it and into the backside of the front fender. All this while bolted as low as they can go. Mine are also bolt on. I emailed [MENTION=90834]joshp767[/MENTION] to express this to him. Never heard back.

I love the sliders look and the welds and thought I was maybe the only one by chance with these problems, maybe not though. I'll be anxious to see what happens. I threw down for a 4crawler/RB body lift to solve my issue. Costly but I from what hear will hopefully be worth it in the end when I try to go for some larger tires. Especially since I spent a good few hours prepping and painting my sliders over the course of a couple days, didn't really want to send them back/get new ones just to paint again.

 

[chmura]

Mine rub on the passenger side rear door, but I haven't gotten a chance to lower them back down. Fine on the driver side. I really wouldn't worry about it too much as long as it clears. With as beefy as these sliders are, if you land hard enough to bend it, you're landing hard enough to snap a bolt or two. If that's the case, you can pull them off and hammer it back into shape.

I am curious to see what RCI says though, because I think you're the 3rd person I've seen to have clearance issues. Seems to me they could have put the holes 1/4" higher so the slider would sit lower but otherwise I'm happy with them.

If I bolt up the slider using all the threaded bolts the rear door hits the slider, not just a tiny bit. It hits a lot. This is no way acceptable. I do not pay $650 sliders for my rear doors paint to be rubbed off after a new installation.

The front of the slider clears perfectly. If they kept the same angle as the front half portion at the rear of the slider it would be perfect.

 

[Drunner97]

If I bolt up the slider using all the threaded bolts the rear door hits the slider, not just a tiny bit. It hits a lot. This is no way acceptable. I do not pay $650 sliders for my rear doors paint to be rubbed off after a new installation.

The front of the slider clears perfectly. If they kept the same angle as the front half portion at the rear of the slider it would be perfect.

Wonder if there's a difference on the frame between the SR5 and the Trail, because mine just need to be adjusted using the holes in the frame. My biggest issue was I was only able to use 1 carriage bolt on the drive side because I think the cross member for the transfer case skid blocks the other hole.

 

[chmura]

Wonder if there's a difference on the frame between the SR5 and the Trail, because mine just need to be adjusted using the holes in the frame. My biggest issue was I was only able to use 1 carriage bolt on the drive side because I think the cross member for the transfer case skid blocks the other hole.

Frame is the same. My ARB bumper bolted up fine to the frame, everything I bought worked perfectly. Frame and the body structure there is no differences.

I can get two long carriage bolts through the frame on the drivers side. One before the tank and one right at the begging of the tank skid. I had to cut 2 inches of the bolt since it would hit the front edge of the oem tank skid.

 

[Drunner97]

Frame is the same.

I can get two long carriage bolts through the frame on the drivers side. One before the tank and one right at the begging of the tank skid. I had to cut 2 inches of the bolt since it would hit the front edge of the oem tank skid.

I was able to get the one carriage bolt in near the front, right around where the transmission is. I'll have to look at cutting one of the bolts for the rear one because I was running into the same problem with it hitting the gas skid.

 

[JustinB]

I was able to get all the bolts in. The one in front of the gas tank skid just barely fit. I had to thread it through the nut against tank-side of the frame since there wasn't enough room to put the nut/washers on the bolt if the bolt was all the way through.

I actually found the process pretty painless and was thrilled with the ease of installation.

 

[chmura]

I was able to get all the bolts in. The one in front of the gas tank skid just barely fit. I had to thread it through the nut against tank-side of the frame since there wasn't enough room to put the nut/washers on the bolt if the bolt was all the way through.

I actually found the process pretty painless and was thrilled with the ease of installation.

Yes the process is painless and install is easy, that's if your rear door can open.

 

[chmura]

I was able to get all the bolts in. The one in front of the gas tank skid just barely fit. I had to thread it through the nut against tank-side of the frame since there wasn't enough room to put the nut/washers on the bolt if the bolt was all the way through.

I actually found the process pretty painless and was thrilled with the ease of installation.

Just saw your build.

If I would of known your rear doors rub after installation I would of choose a different manufacturer, budbuilt, shrockworks, etc.

Having a new set of sliders rubbing on the rear doors is unacceptable to me.

 

[JustinB]

Yes the process is painless and install is easy, that's if your rear door can open.

Josh seems to have pretty great customer service. I'm guessing I haven't heard back because he is busy making more great stuff and catching up on his orders. It's unfortunate we've run into this issue but from what I can tell on this forum he's a guy who will do his best to make it right. And like Drunner said, these are beefy and a nice alternative to some of the other sliders out there so I think they are worth the initial cost and patience to see how it gets handled.

For now I'm not carrying passengers because I'm sick of touching up my sliders. I knew I'd have to touch them up, but I thought it would be on the bottom from rocks, not the top from my doors scraping off the paint every time they get opened. Also holding off on the grip tape because I think that will be too much for the front doors then and well, I need to be able to drive it and open my door without scraping.

Here's to patience :cheers:

 

[Drunner97]

Just saw your build.

If I would of known your rear doors rub after installation I would of choose a different manufacturer, budbuilt, shrockworks, etc.

Having a new set of sliders rubbing on the rear doors is unacceptable to me.

Loosen up all the bolts, then jump up and down on the slider or whack the rear of it with a mallet, you may just not getting them to move enough. Like I said, absolutely no rub on the driver side, but I knew I had the passenger side too high to begin with. I didn't have time to adjust when I was installing and haven't gotten around to doing it since.

 

[JustinB]

Loosen up all the bolts, then jump up and down on the slider or whack the rear of it with a mallet, you may just not getting them to move enough. Like I said, absolutely no rub on the driver side, but I knew I had the passenger side too high to begin with. I didn't have time to adjust when I was installing and haven't gotten around to doing it since.

Been there done that. Had my father standing on the rear of the slider while I tightened it down to the frame too. It lifted him and then door still rubbed.

I was initially going to chalk it all up to worn body mount bushings. But after maybe 3 and for sure 2 rigs encountering it, I don't know. We'll see.

I just saw that the 4crawler lifts appear to be on a month or so back order too. I'll be waiting a while looks like. Bummer.

 

[chmura]

Loosen up all the bolts, then jump up and down on the slider or whack the rear of it with a mallet, you may just not getting them to move enough. Like I said, absolutely no rub on the driver side, but I knew I had the passenger side too high to begin with. I didn't have time to adjust when I was installing and haven't gotten around to doing it since.

I tried that, The slider rests on the threaded bolts. Cannot go any lower.

The only option for me is put spacers between the slider mounting plate and the frame on the two of rear top threaded bolts. This will create a downward angle on the slider and add clearance.

If RCI knew about this problem why have they not corrected angled the kick out better??

 

[Drunner97]

Been there done that. Had my father standing on the rear of the slider while I tightened it down to the frame too. It lifted him and then door still rubbed.

I tried that, The slider rests on the threaded bolts. Cannot go any lower.

The only option for me is put spacers between the slider mounting plate and the frame on the two of rear top threaded bolts. This will create a downward angle on the slider and add clearance.

If RCI knew about this problem why have they not corrected the issue put a less aggressive kick out??

I'll have to give it a try this weekend and see if I can get mine to clear completely. Worst case scenario, I'll drill new holes.