Jake's '99 Limited "Build" Thread

[Team_Jake]

Since I just swapped to a short throw shifter on the 4Runner, I had my old shifter plus the seat and socket lying around (which was basically new since the transmission was rebuilt a couple of months ago). I took the old shifter out of the Tacoma, and sure enough, the seat and socket were worn.

I swapped in the entire shifter (with socket) from my old 4Runner shifter and installed the seat. It was a direct swap onto the W59 transmission, now the shifter is tight and it didn't cost me one cent!

 

[Team_Jake]

Took the 4Runner to Big Bear last weekend, and was able to try more serious obstacles for the first time with a Manual Transmission. It was fun doing Gold Mountain (3N69) again (first time was with the Automatic), the two waterfall sections are a little challenging with the manual, I can see now why a Taco Box can make such a big difference in control and performance.

Just before the first waterfall:

The rock field on Gold Mountain:

And the Squeeze (3N07A):

Not quite as tight as I thought it would be, but I guess 3rd gens are a little smaller than the JKs I've seen just barely squeak by those boulders. The trail is pretty easy but I think worth doing if you haven't before.

Overall, fun weekend.

...I think it's about time I get some sliders now

 

[Team_Jake]

Finally got some sliders!!

I went with Shrockworks with the 3-tube support, bare metal finish. I chose Shrockworks because I wanted the sliders to be low-profile. It's also nice that they are bolt on - I will probably weld them at some point later on but being able to take them off to repaint is attractive.

I made the order on October 11th, Shrockworks claimed the lead time was 6-8 weeks, but it was much longer than. I got the Sliders on January 9th, almost 13 weeks later (granted there was Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years holidays during that time frame). Not a big deal to me, but if anyone reading this decides to order from them, it may take much longer than anticipated. Other than that, their service was great and the sliders they made look exceptional.

How they come out of the box: (driver side has the shorter spaced legs to avoid contact with the fuel tank skid)

Since these are bolt on, you need to drill into the frame. The top holes are a little difficult to drill, just be sure you have a center punch and a good step dill bit. You don't need a 90° bit, I drilled the top holes at a slight angle and they still come out fairly round. Those of you with a body lift will have an easier time.

I painted everything with Rustoleum satin black enamel paint, I decided to get the canned paint this time and roll it on. No primer, and it goes on thick. I think it should hold up fine.

I love how close to the body they sit. Now for the rest of the pics:

 

[huski]

Great work, love the work you did on that front bumper!
I had a question for you. I've manual swapped my 99 as well, how did you fix your reverse lights? i have been searching through the wiring diagram but haven't been able to find the correct circuit. I managed to get my cruise control working, if you're still having issues i can help ya.

 

[Team_Jake]

Great work, love the work you did on that front bumper!
I had a question for you. I've manual swapped my 99 as well, how did you fix your reverse lights? i have been searching through the wiring diagram but haven't been able to find the correct circuit. I managed to get my cruise control working, if you're still having issues i can help ya.

Thanks, I’m so happy with how the bumper turned out.

There’s a section in the EWD called “Back-up Light”. The wiring is pretty simple:

From the wires that used to plug into your park/neutral position connector, the hot wire (black with a yellow stripe, fed into position 4 on the park/neutral position connector) and the reverse indicator wire (red with a yellow stripe, fed into position 8 on the park/neutral position connector) now are fed into the back up light switch connector (located on the passenger side of manual transmission).

When the reverse rail in the manual transmission engages with the switch, the circuit will close and light up your reverse lights. Easy as that!


I still haven’t gotten my cruise control wired properly (my clutch release switch). When I tried wiring it originally, I cut the wires that fed into the park/neutral position connector (the black wire with a yellow stripe and the white wire with a red stripe, wires 4 and 9 respectively) routed them through the interior, ran them under the dash and over to the clutch release switch. It hasn’t worked (even after jumping the wires together, it doesn’t work). I don’t think my wiring is wrong, I’m guessing the wires are too long resulting in too high of a resistance on the circuit, but that’s just a guess. I plan to tap into another hot wire from under the dash and connect it to the white/red wire and see if that solves the problem, I’m just lazy and haven’t gotten around to doing it yet. But if you know what my problem is I’m all ears.

 

[APhelps]

I still haven’t gotten my cruise control wired properly (my clutch release switch). When I tried wiring it originally, I cut the wires that fed into the park/neutral position connector (the black wire with a yellow stripe and the white wire with a red stripe, wires 4 and 9 respectively) routed them through the interior, ran them under the dash and over to the clutch release switch. It hasn’t worked (even after jumping the wires together, it doesn’t work). I don’t think my wiring is wrong, I’m guessing the wires are too long resulting in too high of a resistance on the circuit, but that’s just a guess. I plan to tap into another hot wire from under the dash and connect it to the white/red wire and see if that solves the problem, I’m just lazy and haven’t gotten around to doing it yet. But if you know what my problem is I’m all ears.

You got a copy of the wiring diagram for the cruise control? (post it up)

I have a hard time imagining the resistance of the wiring is causing an issue since you'd probably talking a fraction of an ohm and I doubt the cruise control is that sensitive.

 

[huski]

Thanks, I’m so happy with how the bumper turned out.

There’s a section in the EWD called “Back-up Light”. The wiring is pretty simple:

From the wires that used to plug into your park/neutral position connector, the hot wire (black with a yellow stripe, fed into position 4 on the park/neutral position connector) and the reverse indicator wire (red with a yellow stripe, fed into position 8 on the park/neutral position connector) now are fed into the back up light switch connector (located on the passenger side of manual transmission).

When the reverse rail in the manual transmission engages with the switch, the circuit will close and light up your reverse lights. Easy as that!


I still haven’t gotten my cruise control wired properly (my clutch release switch). When I tried wiring it originally, I cut the wires that fed into the park/neutral position connector (the black wire with a yellow stripe and the white wire with a red stripe, wires 4 and 9 respectively) routed them through the interior, ran them under the dash and over to the clutch release switch. It hasn’t worked (even after jumping the wires together, it doesn’t work). I don’t think my wiring is wrong, I’m guessing the wires are too long resulting in too high of a resistance on the circuit, but that’s just a guess. I plan to tap into another hot wire from under the dash and connect it to the white/red wire and see if that solves the problem, I’m just lazy and haven’t gotten around to doing it yet. But if you know what my problem is I’m all ears.

AH! that is perfect. I've been without reverse lights for far too long.
So i'm going to do my best to explain this, i am not a wiring guru. When we wired in my clutch pedal we spliced into the harness behind the glovebox. i can provide photos for reference if you want. switch at the top of the pedal tells the ecu its in drive, switch on the bottom sees neutral, we made my ECT button park. i'll try and hunt down my old diagrams, this was about a year ago. My limited understanding of the system is because the ecu does not see drive it will not engage cruise. The second the switch is open it will cut cruise control.

 

[mesooohoppy]

very rad build. i think that front bumper is the closest thing ive seen to what id like in a front bumper. minimalist, high clearance, not a bazillion lbs, blends with flairs, etc. (just without the hoop)

 

[Team_Jake]

AH! that is perfect. I've been without reverse lights for far too long.
So i'm going to do my best to explain this, i am not a wiring guru. When we wired in my clutch pedal we spliced into the harness behind the glovebox. i can provide photos for reference if you want. switch at the top of the pedal tells the ecu its in drive, switch on the bottom sees neutral, we made my ECT button park. i'll try and hunt down my old diagrams, this was about a year ago. My limited understanding of the system is because the ecu does not see drive it will not engage cruise. The second the switch is open it will cut cruise control.

Your ECT button is now park? I don't believe that does anything, the only function the A/T had with park was with ignition safety (and also when shifting the transfer case while in park - that illuminated the A/T P light on the dash but that is irrelevant with a manual transmission). The clutch depress switch (or clutch start cancel switch) is the safety for the ignition, so that is covered, what does your park button do?

 

[huski]

Your ECT button is now park? I don't believe that does anything, the only function the A/T had with park was with ignition safety (and also when shifting the transfer case while in park - that illuminated the A/T P light on the dash but that is irrelevant with a manual transmission). The clutch depress switch (or clutch start cancel switch) is the safety for the ignition, so that is covered, what does your park button do?

I really dont think it does anything. i think in the year its been fixed, i've never used it.

 

[Team_Jake]

very rad build. i think that front bumper is the closest thing ive seen to what id like in a front bumper. minimalist, high clearance, not a bazillion lbs, blends with flairs, etc. (just without the hoop)

That’s what I was going for. Maybe some day I’ll make a few more and sell them...

 

[Team_Jake]

You got a copy of the wiring diagram for the cruise control? (post it up)

I have a hard time imagining the resistance of the wiring is causing an issue since you'd probably talking a fraction of an ohm and I doubt the cruise control is that sensitive.

Yeah here is the wiring:

I cut the wires at the park/neutral position connector which routed to the A/T, added a connector on top of the transmission below the shift boot, ran wire behind my center dash then under my steering wheel then over to the clutch release switch. There are 3 or 4 butt connectors added on each wire, plus all that additional length, and the connector added, I figured the reason it wasn’t working was because of the high resistance. I haven’t looked into it much though, I may have a bad connection somewhere, I’ve been too lazy to crawl under my truck or take apart the dash to try to figure out my problem.

 

[APhelps]

Yeah here is the wiring:

I cut the wires at the park/neutral position connector which routed to the A/T, added a connector on top of the transmission below the shift boot, ran wire behind my center dash then under my steering wheel then over to the clutch release switch. There are 3 or 4 butt connectors added on each wire, plus all that additional length, and the connector added, I figured the reason it wasn’t working was because of the high resistance. I haven’t looked into it much though, I may have a bad connection somewhere, I’ve been too lazy to crawl under my truck or take apart the dash to try to figure out my problem.

Just got around to this but it would seem that your wiring is right. B-Y / W-R from the Park/Neutral switch to the clutch switch is right. Seems like it would be a bad connection if there's no other differences to be found between the AT / MT (or would be my guess).

A couple of feet of wiring and connectors should be less than an ohm of resistance, can't imagine the ECU is that sensitive to a resistance change.

 

[Team_Jake]

Just got around to this but it would seem that your wiring is right. B-Y / W-R from the Park/Neutral switch to the clutch switch is right. Seems like it would be a bad connection if there's no other differences to be found between the AT / MT (or would be my guess).

A couple of feet of wiring and connectors should be less than an ohm of resistance, can't imagine the ECU is that sensitive to a resistance change.

Okay it must just be a bad connection somewhere. I'll have to do some testing. Not having cruise control is fine for now, but I'm planning a trip to Yellowstone this summer so driving there without cruise control is going to be terrible.

 

[Team_Jake]

Got a new rear bumper!

It was made by Nguyen Works, and if you haven't heard of them before, go check out "nguyen_works" on Instagram. These are the most low profile, minimalist, and high clearance bumpers I've ever seen. I was going to make my own but honestly the way they make theirs is nearly identical to how I would make mine so it only made sense to just order one through them.

When I made my order, my requests were:

1. Lines up with the limited fender flares
2. Works with the eimkeith fuel tank mount (which will be added soon)
3. Swing-out on the driver side (for visibility reasons, and so when I parallel park and unload things from the back to the sidewalk the swing-out is not in the way).

The swing-out hasn't been installed yet, but will be soon when I get the eimkeith bracket welded on.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

That look great! I randomly came across his rear bumpers on Instagram just this last week and I like it a lot! How much did that configuration set you back? I might be interested in one in the near future after I get my front skid subframe figured out and do my shorter Taco radiator swap that’s collecting dust in the garage.

 

[mesooohoppy]

That look great! I randomly came across his rear bumpers on Instagram just this last week and I like it a lot! How much did that configuration set you back? I might be interested in one in the near future after I get my front skid subframe figured out and do my shorter Taco radiator swap that’s collecting dust in the garage.

according to a comment on their IG page, its 600 bucks. which isnt bad for a minimalist rear bumper. im curious how much more their dual swinggers cost. something like this is right up my alley, thank you for this OP, i appreacite it. it looks great on your rig

 

[Dezert4Runner]

according to a comment on their IG page, its 600 bucks. which isnt bad for a minimalist rear bumper. im curious how much more their dual swinggers cost. something like this is right up my alley, thank you for this OP, i appreacite it. it looks great on your rig

I remember seeing a comment that it’s around $1k with swingout but wanted to hear firsthand what he paid since he has the single swingout too just not installed. The bumper alone is $600 I’m guessing...

 

[Team_Jake]

I remember seeing a comment that it’s around $1k with swingout but wanted to hear firsthand what he paid since he has the single swingout too just not installed. The bumper alone is $600 I’m guessing...

I paid $1k for everything. When I ordered (which was two months ago), I was told $900 for a bumper with swing-out and an extra $100 to work with the eimkeith fuel tank bracket.

 

[Team_Jake]

according to a comment on their IG page, its 600 bucks. which isnt bad for a minimalist rear bumper. im curious how much more their dual swinggers cost. something like this is right up my alley, thank you for this OP, i appreacite it. it looks great on your rig

I want to say dual sing-out was $1300, but I could be wrong. They are making these out of their garage right now and demand has increased so they might be charging more now.