Jaw-dropping repair estimates

[Toystory2]

Not 3 weeks after buying a 2007 SR5, I have taken it to a mechanic to have some repairs estimated.

This is what they quoted me:

Upper and Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: $3,800

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: $1,000

New fuel tank straps: $600

New skid plates: $400 each

Rusted frame repair At least $1,000

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, is it reasonable that I can do any of this myself?

I cannot afford these repairs, unless the dealer does the right thing and makes this right.

 

[rdruss]

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can do all of it, except maybe the frame rust repair. I've done all those to my '03 and I'm self-taught mechanic and all of those were done when I was 70 years old (I'm 74 now), except frame rust repair, for which I payed $1000.

 

[MAST4R]

The LCA for mine are like 330 each and the UCAs are surely cheaper. There are different ways to get OEM parts but don't get random ebay stuff as it may be fake.

So I would say a lot less than 1,000 for control arms.

A set of decent aftermarket shocks like Bilstein 5100 is under 500.

If spring compressor is an issue, then the parts can be taken to a shop for cheap dis/re-assembly of the struts only, already removed from the vehicle.

New skid plates: at this point, aftermarket skids would be better, why pay for the thin stock ones. If the vehicle does not go offroad, they are not needed.

Fuel tank straps can be nasty but should be doable.

The rusted frame repair and the transmission lines may require more preparation in the form of reading and watching youtube videos. Personally, I would probably rather deal with the frame but I am not sure.

Also, if I get our 2008 Subaru Tribeca to a dealer, they will surely find 1000s worth of repairs. The reality is that all it needs is one hose that I bought OEM for 30$ and that I will replace when the weather improves (November!). It seems normal that you should be replacing control arms (rather than bushings) at this time but it is worth double checking.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

Not 3 weeks after buying a 2007 SR5, I have taken it to a mechanic to have some repairs estimated.

This is what they quoted me:

Upper and Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: $3,800

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: $1,000

New fuel tank straps: $600

New skid plates: $400 each

Rusted frame repair At least $1,000

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, is it reasonable that I can do any of this myself?

I cannot afford these repairs, unless the dealer does the right thing and makes this right.

Now I don’t feel so bad getting quotes from my Range Rover dealer! I bought the Toyota to have something new and under warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Toystory2]

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can do all of it, except maybe the frame rust repair. I've done all those to my '03 and I'm self-taught mechanic and all of those were done when I was 70 years old (I'm 74 now), except frame rust repair, for which I payed $1000.

Very nice my friend! I think I can hold off on some stuff, but the trans cooler lines are a must fix this week.

 

[Toystory2]

The LCA for mine are like 330 each and the UCAs are surely cheaper. There are different ways to get OEM parts but don't get random ebay stuff as it may be fake.

So I would say a lot less than 1,000 for control arms.

A set of decent aftermarket shocks like Bilstein 5100 is under 500.

If spring compressor is an issue, then the parts can be taken to a shop for cheap dis/re-assembly of the struts only, already removed from the vehicle.

New skid plates: at this point, aftermarket skids would be better, why pay for the thin stock ones. If the vehicle does not go offroad, they are not needed.

Fuel tank straps can be nasty but should be doable.

The rusted frame repair and the transmission lines may require more preparation in the form of reading and watching youtube videos. Personally, I would probably rather deal with the frame but I am not sure.

Also, if I get our 2008 Subaru Tribeca to a dealer, they will surely find 1000s worth of repairs. The reality is that all it needs is one hose that I bought OEM for 30$ and that I will replace when the weather improves (November!). It seems normal that you should be replacing control arms (rather than bushings) at this time but it is worth double checking.

Thank for your insight. I feel I could definitely do the gas tank straps and save $600. Not feeling good about doing the suspension, but will probably get a second opinion, or, just do control arms first, and then the other stuff. The trans line coolers don't look too bad.

 

[who done it]

Where in NC you located? I'm in Raleigh, ill help you out.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

 

[riverwolf]

Where did this thing live and how many miles to have that much rust damage? Can't imagine it was NC truck all of its life.

Have you inspected the frame rust yourself? Could easily just be surface rust (we all have some)...fix with a little elbow grease and rustoleam. Or rust converter.

Unless something's changed drastically, the factory skids shouldn't be that much each. I replaced the oil pan/engine skid for like $120ish shipped from one of the online Toyota dealers (probably Partznet/Connicelli), albeit probably 6+ years ago.

I haven't done control arms, but did new shocks/struts/springs. Plenty of good DIY write-ups here and T120. While you can pay a shop to do the spring swap for you, I'd recommend going ahead and picking up a kit like this so you'll be prepared to do struts on future vehicles as well. This is pretty much the same design you'll see illustrated as the "special shop tool" in the factory service manual.

None of it's beyond doing in your driveway with basic hand tools. Think of it as a great opportunity to collect new tools.

-Brent

 

[snowboardwcu]

recommend getting the frame really inspected (even if at dealership) and determine how bad it is. after years of dumping cash into mine (headers, suspension, sound deadening, audio, among much else) its no longer inspect-able in PA due to frame rot.

point is done invest in suspension and all the rest if the truck is in jeopardy.

 

[Toystory2]

Where in NC you located? I'm in Raleigh, ill help you out.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

Hello, I’m over in Franklin, NC (west of Asheville)

 

[Toystory2]

Where did this thing live and how many miles to have that much rust damage? Can't imagine it was NC truck all of its life.

Have you inspected the frame rust yourself? Could easily just be surface rust (we all have some)...fix with a little elbow grease and rustoleam. Or rust converter.

Unless something's changed drastically, the factory skids shouldn't be that much each. I replaced the oil pan/engine skid for like $120ish shipped from one of the online Toyota dealers (probably Partznet/Connicelli), albeit probably 6+ years ago.

I haven't done control arms, but did new shocks/struts/springs. Plenty of good DIY write-ups here and T120. While you can pay a shop to do the spring swap for you, I'd recommend going ahead and picking up a kit like this so you'll be prepared to do struts on future vehicles as well. This is pretty much the same design you'll see illustrated as the "special shop tool" in the factory service manual.

None of it's beyond doing in your driveway with basic hand tools. Think of it as a great opportunity to collect new tools.

-Brent

Thanks for your reply and the fact you’re not doom and gloom like some are. It has 141k but it did come out of Ohio. The rust isn’t super terrible but there is one bad spot in the framer under passenger door. Rust converters seem promising, but do they help with rusted holes at all?

I’ve done shocks before on an 88 4Runner and it wasn’t bad. Struts and control arms I have not.

 

[Toystory2]

Where did this thing live and how many miles to have that much rust damage? Can't imagine it was NC truck all of its life.

Have you inspected the frame rust yourself? Could easily just be surface rust (we all have some)...fix with a little elbow grease and rustoleam. Or rust converter.

Unless something's changed drastically, the factory skids shouldn't be that much each. I replaced the oil pan/engine skid for like $120ish shipped from one of the online Toyota dealers (probably Partznet/Connicelli), albeit probably 6+ years ago.

I haven't done control arms, but did new shocks/struts/springs. Plenty of good DIY write-ups here and T120. While you can pay a shop to do the spring swap for you, I'd recommend going ahead and picking up a kit like this so you'll be prepared to do struts on future vehicles as well. This is pretty much the same design you'll see illustrated as the "special shop tool" in the factory service manual.

None of it's beyond doing in your driveway with basic hand tools. Think of it as a great opportunity to collect new tools.

-Brent

I can probably do the skid plates too. The worst part will be getting this rusty bolts off. Probably won’t be using a heat torch near the gas tank tho!

 

[Toystory2]

recommend getting the frame really inspected (even if at dealership) and determine how bad it is. after years of dumping cash into mine (headers, suspension, sound deadening, audio, among much else) its no longer inspect-able in PA due to frame rot.

point is done invest in suspension and all the rest if the truck is in jeopardy.

I had a shop look at it today and their main complaint about the rust was the hole in the frame. They quoted about $1,000 or possibly more to fix. I guess they’ll have to weld it. I wanna get a jump start on the other rust to keep it from getting any worse.

 

[Toystory2]

Now I don’t feel so bad getting quotes from my Range Rover dealer! I bought the Toyota to have something new and under warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh mercy LoL

 

[triethylborane]

I can probably do the skid plates too. The worst part will be getting this rusty bolts off. Probably won’t be using a heat torch near the gas tank tho!

The skid plate bolts will be the issue due to the small(er) diameter than the strap bolts. Mine were extremely rusty, the heads were corroding/falling apart, so I had to come up with ways to dealing with it . . . bolt extractors, drilling, rivnuts, etc . . .and yes, like you noted, the skid bolts are just too close for comfort for the torch.

The strap fasteners are not too close and you can hold up some scrap metal for shielding if you are so inclined. I hit them with the torch then popped them off with the milwaukee 1/2" impact.

Its not a complex or time-consuming job, just follow the write up by [MENTION=429038]y=mx+b[/MENTION] I purchased the liland global straps from RockAuto and I think it was $50 shipped, new pins were $7 from ebay, 8.8 fasteners and washers came out to $8 or so.

Frankly anything on that list is not that difficult. The alignment you could get close but Id pop it on a rack and let the tech figure it out.

 

[bootown]

Upper and Lower Control Arms

These really need replaced? Let's see some pics.

Shocks/Struts. Replace rusted trans cooler lines

You can do shocks/struts yourself. The trans lines not sure but can't be that hard. Rusted bolts are probably the only hard part. You want to do whatever you can to avoid snapping bolts.

New skid plates

Hit the bolts with penetrating lubricant multiple days in a row. Then get yourself a torch. I just went through a snapped skid bolt last weekend. PITA but got it done and retapped. Get anti-seize on the new bolts.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, is it reasonable that I can do any of this myself?

Yup, decide on the first project to tackle. Search the forums and youtube. Don't be afraid to ask for tips before starting something. Pictures of the rust severity on the particular project can be helpful to give the best advice. Sometimes the right tool or right strategy makes all the difference. No stupid questions possible. My favorite way to search is to put this into a google search box (ex. replace transmission lines):

site:4th Gen T4Rs - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum transmission lines

 

[Flesh Eater]

If you’re willing to sweat, get dirty, and work hard all those are easy to do. If you can’t weld you’ll have to pay for the frame repair.

All new factory control arms for mine cost $916 from NAPA. They were all complete with ball joints and bushings.

There’s only two bolts that need removed to get the UCA bolts out. Pull the battery to make the driver’s side easier.

Gas tank straps will suck and you might as well do a fuel pump if you get that far. At least I would.

Trans lines are easy, just have to work the hard lines through tight spots sometimes.

 

[who done it]

Hello, I’m over in Franklin, NC (west of Asheville)

Well if you need help and feel like driving to Raleigh, I can help you out.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

 

[Toystory2]

Well if you need help and feel like driving to Raleigh, I can help you out.

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

I appreciate that offer my friend.

 

[Toystory2]

The skid plate bolts will be the issue due to the small(er) diameter than the strap bolts. Mine were extremely rusty, the heads were corroding/falling apart, so I had to come up with ways to dealing with it . . . bolt extractors, drilling, rivnuts, etc . . .and yes, like you noted, the skid bolts are just too close for comfort for the torch.

The strap fasteners are not too close and you can hold up some scrap metal for shielding if you are so inclined. I hit them with the torch then popped them off with the milwaukee 1/2" impact.

Its not a complex or time-consuming job, just follow the write up by [MENTION=429038]y=mx+b[/MENTION] I purchased the liland global straps from RockAuto and I think it was $50 shipped, new pins were $7 from ebay, 8.8 fasteners and washers came out to $8 or so.

Frankly anything on that list is not that difficult. The alignment you could get close but Id pop it on a rack and let the tech figure it out.

I have an impact driver, did you just use some type of drill bit?

I think I can tackle just about everything except the control arms and maybe the struts, since I've never done them.