JBA Offroad Upper Control Arm Install

[infamousRNR]

are you guys getting tired of our videos yet?????












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[Devbot]

I think it goes without saying your guys' channel is one of the most appreciated assets on here :usa2:

 

[Breaker Bar]

T4R folks will never tire of your guys’ videos. I like that JBA added a threaded hole for the ABS bracket, my set from a couple of years ago doesn't and has the bracket zip tied to the arm. One thing I noticed is that you torqued the through bolt while it was up on jack stands… On the UCA’s I’ve installed the instructions always mentioned to torque at ride height with the wheels installed.

 

[counterculture]

Thanks for the informative video!

 

[JZiggy]

T4R folks will never tire of your guys’ videos. I like that JBA added a threaded hole for the ABS bracket, my set from a couple of years ago doesn't and has the bracket zip tied to the arm. One thing I noticed is that you torqued the through bolt while it was up on jack stands… On the UCA’s I’ve installed the instructions always mentioned to torque at ride height with the wheels installed.

Since the UCA bushings are fully floating it doesn’t matter their position when the bolt is torqued. A rubber bushing is bonded to the inner and outer sleeves so it’s neutral position has to be set at ride height.

 

[Breaker Bar]

Since the UCA bushings are fully floating it doesn’t matter their position when the bolt is torqued. A rubber bushing is bonded to the inner and outer sleeves so it’s neutral position has to be set at ride height.

Good to know, I did see that the bushings in the vid are different than mine from 2018. The press in poly bushings with steel sleeve inserts on my JBA’s, as well as on my Readylift UCA’s that I installed on my Ram pickup stated to torque with the tires on the ground.

 

[infamousRNR]

T4R folks will never tire of your guys’ videos. I like that JBA added a threaded hole for the ABS bracket, my set from a couple of years ago doesn't and has the bracket zip tied to the arm. One thing I noticed is that you torqued the through bolt while it was up on jack stands… On the UCA’s I’ve installed the instructions always mentioned to torque at ride height with the wheels installed.

looks like JZiggy beat me to the punch..

I think it goes without saying your guys' channel is one of the most appreciated assets on here :usa2:

thanks for the kind words guys. Tim and I were beginning to wonder if anyone on here watches our stuff anymore lol

 

[cl4Rk]

Tim and I were beginning to wonder if anyone on here watches our stuff anymore lol

I watch at least one of your videos most days! Lol

 

[Devbot]

looks like JZiggy beat me to the punch..





thanks for the kind words guys. Tim and I were beginning to wonder if anyone on here watches our stuff anymore lol

Literally every single repair I do I try to find something from you guys on the topic before I start :bounce:

 

[BoomSticks]

Any special considerations for getting the through bolt out of the passenger side?

 

[octanejunkie]

Any special considerations for getting the through bolt out of the passenger side?

Watch Tim and Sean's video, you have to remove the airbox and loosen the AC lines. Passenger was easier than the driver side IIRC.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[BoomSticks]

Watch Tim and Sean's video, you have to remove the airbox and loosen the AC lines. Passenger was easier than the driver side IIRC.

Yep, they didn't mention it, because there aren't any special considerations. I didn't have to move anything to get the passenger side bolt out.

 

[mac33]

bringing this old thread back up, sorry.

Anyone have any issues with JBA? Highly consider it but also considering SPC. Talk me into/out of one another.

RockAuto discontinued SPC so unable to get it cheaper.

 

[Bad Luck]

bringing this old thread back up, sorry.

Anyone have any issues with JBA? Highly consider it but also considering SPC. Talk me into/out of one another.

RockAuto discontinued SPC so unable to get it cheaper.

Mevotech branded SPC control arms are still out there. Google MEVOTECH CMS861193 and MEVOTECH CMS861192.

 

[cblock406]

bringing this old thread back up, sorry.

Anyone have any issues with JBA? Highly consider it but also considering SPC. Talk me into/out of one another.

RockAuto discontinued SPC so unable to get it cheaper.

When I did mine, JBA's didn't have adjustable caster like SPC, so I ruled them out and went SPC. No regrets. Maybe they are different now?

 

[Devbot]

bringing this old thread back up, sorry.

Anyone have any issues with JBA? Highly consider it but also considering SPC. Talk me into/out of one another.

RockAuto discontinued SPC so unable to get it cheaper.

I wish I would've gotten the Mevotech SPC arms over my JBAs. I don't have any complaints on them, it's just the SPC arms are actually designed to correct your alignment after a lift and ultimately provide more caster in comparison - I also like how instead of bushings they use two Johnny joints. A little overkill but kinda neat nonetheless. What's nice about JBA is they use some very common bolt-in GM ball joint that can be easily acquired, that also has a ton of articulation to it. But that said it's 90° degree of motion vs 80° between the two arms, and unless your LBJ has similar flex you'll never see that extra 10°
Tbh I only bought JBA because I was unaware you could get unbranded SPC arms for only a few extra bucks

 

[Zhehan]

The JBA Arms comes with 3* of additional caster to correct the Caster with a lift. It's not adjustable, but once aligned, it does force the wheel further forward in the well because you run your rear arms all the way out. They also feature a replaceable ball joint. I'm really happy with mine. 285's and no rub at full lock.

 

[ZSW99]

The JBA Arms comes with 3* of additional caster to correct the Caster with a lift. It's not adjustable, but once aligned, it does force the wheel further forward in the well because you run your rear arms all the way out. They also feature a replaceable ball joint. I'm really happy with mine. 285's and no rub at full lock.

Doesn’t it move the wheel closer to the firewall so that you don’t have to max out the rear adjusters? Pretty sure the only way to move the wheel forward is moving the lbj forward and keeping the upper in roughly the same spot

 

[Zhehan]

Doesn’t it move the wheel closer to the firewall so that you don’t have to max out the rear adjusters? Pretty sure the only way to move the wheel forward is moving the lbj forward and keeping the upper in roughly the same spot

If you follow the recommendation by SPC, after choosing Caster position "D" (I think), maxing out the rear Cam (Caster adjustment on these trucks) to move the LBJ forward is how you get the clearance and the better Caster angle. It's the same procedure with the JBA Arms, only the Caster position is already fixed for you.

This doesn't work the same way with the stock arms due to the reduction of the Caster angle after the lift. You cannot get both good Caster and Camber angles with the stock arms. You run out of adjustment.

EDIT: If you look at the Cams on the Toyota trucks with the aftermarket High Caster control arms, you'll see that most of them have the rear cams maxed and front cams in or near the neutral position. That's where mine are. The Alignment Cam Delete kits are based on these common positions.

 

[JZiggy]

With JBAs and 2” of lift my shop was able to dial in perfect alignment with 4* of caster. Rides nice!