Toyojay
New member
Hey all. I've read tons of threads on gutting the JBL, but none that answer my specific question. Curious if any one has left the JBL sub intact while replacing the rest of the system?
I already have an aftermarket headunit installed with the TTYO box, and the factory speakers sound pretty terrible with it. I have Infinity components to go in the front doors, infinity 3 ways for the rear doors and a 4ch amp to run them. Deleting the dash speaker, and rear cargo tweeters. I do not have a sub to replace the JBL with yet, or an amp for it. My thinking was to run the speaker wiring, install all of that and leave the JBL amp and sub connected until I order the rest of the system.
To any that have done this, is it even possible? I feel like the bass from the system is also coming from the door speakers. Will just the JBL sub by itself have the same level of bass?
Also, to those that have done it. How easy is it to route new ~14AWG wire through all 4 door looms? Would strongly prefer not to cut any stock wiring. Looking over the schematics doesn't answer much about how the headunit/amp delivers power, but it would seem the sub should still work.
Sorry if its been covered before, couldn't find anything specific. Thanks
I already have an aftermarket headunit installed with the TTYO box, and the factory speakers sound pretty terrible with it. I have Infinity components to go in the front doors, infinity 3 ways for the rear doors and a 4ch amp to run them. Deleting the dash speaker, and rear cargo tweeters. I do not have a sub to replace the JBL with yet, or an amp for it. My thinking was to run the speaker wiring, install all of that and leave the JBL amp and sub connected until I order the rest of the system.
To any that have done this, is it even possible? I feel like the bass from the system is also coming from the door speakers. Will just the JBL sub by itself have the same level of bass?
Also, to those that have done it. How easy is it to route new ~14AWG wire through all 4 door looms? Would strongly prefer not to cut any stock wiring. Looking over the schematics doesn't answer much about how the headunit/amp delivers power, but it would seem the sub should still work.
Sorry if its been covered before, couldn't find anything specific. Thanks
