Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build

[Black798]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] thanks for the mention, good to hear the shift kit is holding up well. I am super pleased with mine. Even though Im NA I noticed that the kit made the shift points so much more consistent in 4 low. It used to slam from 1 to 2 anywhere between 2k and 3500 but now its a nice jolt right at 2200 that If I work the pedal right is barely noticeable.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Pump runs great just installed it but the job took 8 hours. Why did it take so long you might ask?

The Evo 9 fuel pump is not plug and play, part #195130-3570. The spades seen below are to big:

I had to take a dremmel and shave down the sides since I only had the fuel pump, not the connector and pigtail. You can use this fuel pump if you have the pigtail for it, otherwise do not bother. It's also taller than the stock unit so I had to bend the base of the fuel sending unit to get it to fit. Stock rubber washer fit fine though.

I also stripped the nut on one of the high-pressure fuel line . Here's a tip: there's three possible ways to disconnect the line, one right at the end of the tank with the rubber hoses, one in the middle of the tank and the fuel filter (the one I tried), and one at the fuel filter itself. I should have just done the one at the fuel filter, since I had replaced the fuel filter a few years ago. Oh well.

After rounding the nut and stripping the threads halfway out, I gave up at the center nut and prayed it wouldn't leak. There's a flexible rubber section in the middle so I was able to get the entire fuel line out with no issues.

It's all buttoned up and ready for bigger injectors. I will never drop a fuel tank again. Ever. Ever ever.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Been a little while since I've done much, other than little fixes here and there. However, I've initially connected my AEM F/IC 6 to drive larger injectors and FINALLY get a good tune.

I'm still tweaking the setup so will get photos up soon. I used the URD patch harness in case I messed things up royally I could go back to stock. More to come soon.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Pump runs great just installed it but the job took 8 hours. Why did it take so long you might ask?

The Evo 9 fuel pump is not plug and play, part #195130-3570. The spades seen below are to big:

I had to take a dremmel and shave down the sides since I only had the fuel pump, not the connector and pigtail. You can use this fuel pump if you have the pigtail for it, otherwise do not bother. It's also taller than the stock unit so I had to bend the base of the fuel sending unit to get it to fit. Stock rubber washer fit fine though.

I also stripped the nut on one of the high-pressure fuel line . Here's a tip: there's three possible ways to disconnect the line, one right at the end of the tank with the rubber hoses, one in the middle of the tank and the fuel filter (the one I tried), and one at the fuel filter itself. I should have just done the one at the fuel filter, since I had replaced the fuel filter a few years ago. Oh well.

After rounding the nut and stripping the threads halfway out, I gave up at the center nut and prayed it wouldn't leak. There's a flexible rubber section in the middle so I was able to get the entire fuel line out with no issues.

It's all buttoned up and ready for bigger injectors. I will never drop a fuel tank again. Ever. Ever ever.

This is good to know since I have the EVO pump and Injectors still sitting on my bench.

 

[gamefreakgc]

This is good to know since I have the EVO pump and Injectors still sitting on my bench.

If you have the wire harness to go with it, it will not be as bad. But I really recommend doing this job with a friend. Doing it alone was so frustrating, and I only had about 2 gallons of gas in there.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ok! Did a lot today. First things first, I was super tired of those stock meep-meep horns so wanted something a little more beefy. I went with the PIAA Super Bass horns (if you have decent speakers, there's a sound clip in the link below):

PIAA | Automotive Superior Bass Horn (330/400Hz) #85115

Here's how they came out of the box:

The installation is simple enough but you will need 2 female spade connectors, 0.250 size. Wire size should be 16-18 gauge, since one side has two wires. Start by removing the grill.

Our stock horns have power through the wiring harness but are grounded through the mounting screw. The driver's side horn has two wires (both are power wires) and the passenger's side horn has the one wire from the driver's side. Follow the directions for the two horns, one wire setup. You'll just need a spot to secure the ground wires under a 10mm screw, I used the brackets in the corner.

After fitting the passenger's side horn, the A/C line was in the way. What I did was loosen the hex screw on the A/C tubular thingy (no idea what it is really) and pushed it down, lowering the entire line and tightened it back up. Perfect.

Finished product:

Sounds AWESOME!

 

[gamefreakgc]

And now the part I've been waiting YEARS for, larger injectors plus the AEM F/IC 6 installation! My engine runs very lean, doesn't throw codes but my injectors are completely tapped out. One time I did a WOT run I ran out of methanol mixture and the AFR's hit 18 on max boost! Scary stuff.

I ordered an AEM F/IC 6 and instead of wiring into the stock harness I went with URD's patch harness so that I could remove it and go back to stock if I ever needed to *cough* smog *cough*: Plug N Play Harnesses - Underdog Racing Development. A big shout out to MTD (why can I not do a Mention?) for his thread about how to install the AEM F/IC 6: How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum. Without that I'd still be struggling with the installation.

After talking with a local Toyota engine builder who specializes in 5VZ-FE's and reading Gadget's site which confirmed what he said, I went with the Supra/Lexus injectors from Five-O Motorsports: Toyota Supra Non-Turbo, 1993, 1994, 1995, 2JZ, 23250-46030/46031 (54212134) Refurbished JDM fuel injectors - 3 Year Warranty. These do not have air-assist, so they fit a little differently but work just fine. These flow at 305 cc's compared to the stock 238 cc's, that's a 28% increase over stock. More on why that number mattered for me later.

First I had to wire things up. A few awesome members were able to get a hold of the ECU wiring diagram for a 1998 4x4 Auto.

A wiring diagram with ECU pinouts is a must!. You will be lost without one and risk messing up your vehicle by tapping the wrong wires. After about 5 hours work, this is what I ended up with:

You'll notice the one wire on a spade and not soldered, that's for the wideband. I didn't want to solder this one because the wideband output wire was coming from the center console and would need to be disconnected to remove the wiring harness if need be.

I hooked it up and played around with the AEM unit for a bit, doing calibrations, etc. This guy's site is super, super helpful on how to use the AEM unit: Fried Rice BANZAI, see the posts by date on the lower right side.

Then came installing the injectors. I won't go step by step here, since if you don't know how to replace injectors, you shouldn't be thinking of doing this. However, I wanted to share a few tips on getting the Supra/Lexus injectors to fit right. They are a little bit smaller than stock, so it changes how you install them. Take the largest o-rings/manifold gasketst off the old stock injectors (they fit on the lower half of the injectors) and slip them on the new injectors. You will probably need to take the large doughnut rings off the bottom and then slip them on. If you don't put these on, junk will start to seep down in between your injectors and the intake manifold. You then want to connect the wires before tightening down the fuel rails. They sit at a slightly different angle so you can't connect them after securing the rails.

Got the new injectors in took a peek down my intake. Looks like the water/meth is working as intended look how clean that intake is and valves are! Seems as though the top doesn't get hit with the spray though.

While I had the intake off, I removed the 675 cc methanol nozzle I had installed and put in a 175 cc nozzle. I no longer am 100% reliant on water/meth to get my AFR's in line and can use the system as intended: boosting the octane.

Got it all put together and fired it up perfect the first time. I took it for a spin to let my fuel trims settle. A step back, some of you might know my Long-Term fuel trims are stupid high. As in maxed at +19.5%. That's while NOT UNDER BOOST. Here's how they looked after dropping 305 cc injectors in there with no tune:

That's right, the stock ECU adjusted for the injectors with plenty of room to spare! That shows how much fuel the ECU was dumping on just to try and stay stoich. Nuts. Anyway, that's all for today. My idle is a bit too high so I think my IAC is shot, going to swap it out with another one I have on hand. Then I'm going to start doing some WOT runs to see how these new injectors fare and how lean/rich I am at open loop. Spoiler: I need a good tune lol.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Finished tucking away the AEM unit today. There is no room back there, period.

I was able to stuff the computer itself above the glove box latch bracket on the left side. In order for it to fit, I took the the bracket out, cut a notch in it where the unit sits in order to it to fit. It's snug, I put some felt on the body at the pressure points & top so it does not rattle either.

That was the easy part. The AEM harness and patch harness had no where to go. I ended up just smashing the vent pipe back into place, taping it on one end and used that to hold everything in place. Some zip ties for the USB cord and boost hose so nothing moves and we'll see if this works.

I drilled a hole in the glovebox to thread the USB cable through, verified it all worked and buttoned it all up. My glovebox is hard to close now... but at least it fits.

If you try and fit it in there with a patch harness, get ready for a wrestling match. You have to either sacrifice your vent or your glovebox, no way it will fit without sacrificing one.

 

[Speedy]

Great thread.

Curious what benefit the AEM F/IC 6 vs the URD 7th injector kit with the AIC-T with PTB enrichment? I went with the latter and it's been pretty simple to tune and has worked really well. Now that I've added water/meth injection I'm barely spraying any fuel from the 7th, just a spritz way up in the RPM range (I'm on the stock fuel pump).

I'm also on the stock transmission and agree it holds up fine. I'm intrigued by your shift kit install and may look in to that in the future. ECT has helped, but could be even better.

Sad to see the DT headers weren't fruitful, you're at the same point I am and looking to max out performance.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Great thread.

Curious what benefit the AEM F/IC 6 vs the URD 7th injector kit with the AIC-T with PTB enrichment? I went with the latter and it's been pretty simple to tune and has worked really well. Now that I've added water/meth injection I'm barely spraying any fuel from the 7th, just a spritz way up in the RPM range (I'm on the stock fuel pump).

I'm also on the stock transmission and agree it holds up fine. I'm intrigued by your shift kit install and may look in to that in the future. ECT has helped, but could be even better.

Sad to see the DT headers weren't fruitful, you're at the same point I am and looking to max out performance.

I'm not familiar with the AIC-T, so I cannot comment there. The AEM has lots of support both online and from dyno shops. I did not want the Split Second unit since it's harder to tune, especially for closed loop tuning. Worse case scenario if I couldn't dial in a good tune, I know some shops in the area that know the AEM systems well so it's a plan B. Actually, even if I get a decent tune I will probably take it in for a dyno run anyway.

I'm still learning the system and how it works, but the O2 skewing is very simple so far and AEM gives suggestions on what values to start with which is a great help. Makes close loop tuning very doable for me.

The last few things on my potential performance list is new camshafts, port & polish, electric fan (need to ask around on this one) and maybe, MAYBE a 2.0" pulley. Not really sure on that last one.

 

[Speedy]

Electric fan is on my list as well. I've "heard" that frees up a lot more horses than one would think. I'm looking at the flex-a-lite.

The AIC-T is a piggy back like the AEM you showed. The difference is it controls timing adjustment (remove timing only) to avoid ping, and controls a single 7th injector that is installed in the base of the supercharger. This means you don't have to mess with closed loop tuning, you just tell the 7th injector to spray as it sees boost, and it's programmable per PSI/RPM, so really quick and easy. However with the meth injection I almost don't even need it, and if I richened my mix, probably could get rid of it completely, but since I have it I use it just a bit at the very top of the RPMs. I ran my truck on it solely for about 10 years before I added the meth though, but meth also allowed me to go to a 2.1 pulley.

I've thought about a 2.0 as well, but likely won't. Don't wanna over tax the blower.

Curious how cams work in this truck? How much power?

You running stock exhaust after the headers? Mine's a cali spec with two cats, I've considered getting rid of the 2nd one.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Electric fan is on my list as well. I've "heard" that frees up a lot more horses than one would think. I'm looking at the flex-a-lite.

The AIC-T is a piggy back like the AEM you showed. The difference is it controls timing adjustment (remove timing only) to avoid ping, and controls a single 7th injector that is installed in the base of the supercharger. This means you don't have to mess with closed loop tuning, you just tell the 7th injector to spray as it sees boost, and it's programmable per PSI/RPM, so really quick and easy. However with the meth injection I almost don't even need it, and if I richened my mix, probably could get rid of it completely, but since I have it I use it just a bit at the very top of the RPMs. I ran my truck on it solely for about 10 years before I added the meth though, but meth also allowed me to go to a 2.1 pulley.

I've thought about a 2.0 as well, but likely won't. Don't wanna over tax the blower.

Curious how cams work in this truck? How much power?

You running stock exhaust after the headers? Mine's a cali spec with two cats, I've considered getting rid of the 2nd one.

The thing with these 4Runners that unless you are mashing on the gas pedal at WOT, it runs in closed loop. If you add fuel at closed loop, the ECU automatically takes it back out by reducing the main injectors. Can the AIC-T keep the O2 sensor from curring back fuel? The AEM also works off a boost sensor in the same format with a MAP sensor.

I'm looking to get a better powerband at half-throttle for passing, etc. in closed loop. Shooting for 13's at anything over about 2 PSI boost.

The thing I have yet to confirm is at what RPM range does it make the fan swap worth it. These engines don't rev higher than 5500 RPM, which is not very high. Not sure how much HP that will gain, especially since my 4Runner doesn't see above 4000 RPM very often. I need to talk to some more performance shops or dyno shops to see what kind of gains they are used to seeing.

Here's the specs on the cams I am looking at from Colt Cams:

Thank-you, for contacting us.
We do offer a mild perf. grind that gained 22 HP
INT: 262° .347L
EXH: 264° .330 L
Cost is $600.00 for the set of 4 + $45.00 return shipping.
Customer supplies cam cores
Sorry, I can't guarantee on smog
If you are interested please give us a call at your convenience.
Thank-you,
Geoff Bardal @
Colt Cams Inc

 

[4Running Daily]

This is a badass thread! Nice truck!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Electric fan is on my list as well. I've "heard" that frees up a lot more horses than one would think. I'm looking at the flex-a-lite.

The AIC-T is a piggy back like the AEM you showed. The difference is it controls timing adjustment (remove timing only) to avoid ping, and controls a single 7th injector that is installed in the base of the supercharger. This means you don't have to mess with closed loop tuning, you just tell the 7th injector to spray as it sees boost, and it's programmable per PSI/RPM, so really quick and easy. However with the meth injection I almost don't even need it, and if I richened my mix, probably could get rid of it completely, but since I have it I use it just a bit at the very top of the RPMs. I ran my truck on it solely for about 10 years before I added the meth though, but meth also allowed me to go to a 2.1 pulley.

I've thought about a 2.0 as well, but likely won't. Don't wanna over tax the blower.

Curious how cams work in this truck? How much power?

You running stock exhaust after the headers? Mine's a cali spec with two cats, I've considered getting rid of the 2nd one.

Realized I didn't answer your question. It's not a completely stock exhaust, I removed the baffled muffler for a straight-through designed one, a Borla. If you are doing exhaust work, the major bottlenecks are (in order):exhaust manifold, small downpipe (before/after first cat, only is 2.25"), cats, then muffler. The rest of the piping is roughly 2.4", so plenty big enough for what these engines put out.

 

[Speedy]

Cool, so did you notice any performance improvement from the exhaust changes? I was thinking of eliminating the 2nd cat, but didn't intend to change much else in the exhaust system.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Cool, so did you notice any performance improvement from the exhaust changes? I was thinking of eliminating the 2nd cat, but didn't intend to change much else in the exhaust system.

Headers yes, but I'm in the CA so the downpipe is mostly off-limits as well as the cats (although the headers took out half the downpipe so that helps).

The muffler I did with just a supercharger, and I've done a lot since then so it might be helping but I may not be aware.

 

[4Running Daily]

Headers yes, but I'm in the CA so the downpipe is mostly off-limits as well as the cats (although the headers took out half the downpipe so that helps).

The muffler I did with just a supercharger, and I've done a lot since then so it might be helping but I may not be aware.

You should be able to get some high flow, CA legal, cats from Magnaflow.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Tuning Has Begun

I've begun tuning, or at least a sloppy first-timer version of it. I will have it tuned by a shop before it's all said and done.

The calibrations are done (be sure to calibrate your TPS values and RPM values per the software instructions) and here is my data range I'm working with:

• Boost: 0-11 PSI. 11 was the max observed I've seen with a 2.1" pulley.
• I have a narrowband O2 sensor, with a max voltage set in my F/IC of 1.10 volts per AEM's suggestions. Settings are set as MAP, and Offset.
• For the fuel & timing tables, I have 6000 RPM set as the maximum value, and 28 PSI as the max MAP (14.7 base, gives 13ish lbs of boost before the table ends).
• The supra injectors I installed are fully adjustable by the ECU, so the fuel map is 0'd out completely. Any fuel added more than 4% causes the engine to buck.

The fuel tables are set with the following parameters: RPM max at 6000 (in case slightly over rev) and PSIA max at 28 (14.7 atmospheric pressure plus 11 PSI, with a little extra). I did some testing with the O2 skewing, which works well despite being a narrowband sensor. If you have a factory A/F sensor (wideband), ignore the video and notes below. They do not apply. Here's the video showing how to do it:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9mKpRxJulp4?rel=0" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Here are the values I came up with:

Offset value | AFR observed on UEGO gauge | Short-Term Fuel Trims

-0.350 | 14.5 | 2
-0.400 | 14.2 | 3.9
-0.450 | 13.2 | 8.0
-0.475 | 12.5 | 15.6
-0.500 | 11.6 | 19.5+ (Torque doesn't read past this value)
-0.50+ | 11.6 | 19.5+ (adding higher values did not change AFR)

I'm going to use the -0.450 values in closed loop boost starting at 1 PSI boost to richen things up. Here's to hoping it goes well. I currently have my methanol turned off until I get a better handle on my AFR's. No ping at higher boost, but then again my engine hardly ever pings.

EDIT: O2 skewing is working very well on road testing. As soon as I hit boost the AFR's fall into the low 13's. At 4 PSI, my water injection will turn on, further reducing the AFR's but the ECU does try and tune it out. I may lower the turn on point for the water/meth though, we will see.

HP Increase:

+25 HP estimate, definite power increase!

Running Total:

+84 HP

 

[gamefreakgc]

You should be able to get some high flow, CA legal, cats from Magnaflow.

My cat is failing, I don't think I will pass my next smog check so I will be forced to change it. Definitely not buying a Toyota one, they cost around $1,200. Will go with a high flow cat of some sort, do you have any suggestions? It must be 50-state legal though.

 

[Speedy]

Feel for you guys that live in the people's republic of CA, but I digress.

My Torque app was reading +39.5% LTFT on my truck recently and led me to diagnose and resolve a VAC leak.

I have a 2002 model, however, so maybe the WBO2 allows a higher range.