Kyle Reese
New member
Pretty amazing stuff you've done bro looks great I think I've actually seen you around one time in Huntsville or something like that
John's 99 4runner rebuild/build
- Thread starter mmml4
- Start date
NHRunner
New member
I've seen a couple like this where they use plate behind the exposed square tubing. I like the way it looks.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/107707-gerdos-rig-build-thread.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/107707-gerdos-rig-build-thread.html
Sean K.
New member
Fantastic. Another inch makes sense.
Thanks for the info. I'm shooting for 22" on 37s. Not sure if it's feasible, but that's the plan.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind:
1) How much up travel do you have in the front?
2) Is your axle pushed forward and if so, how much?
3) On full compression travel, is the rod end of your upper link behind the motor mount? I'm trying to figure out how to get enough up travel and the driver side motor mount seems to be in the way unless you angle the upper mount's tower (at the axle end) rearward.
Thanks again.
mmml4
New member
1. I have about 2" of up travel.
2. The axle was moved forward about 3" to clear the oil pan.
3. Yes my upper link bracket is behind the motor mount.
I have 12" travel shocks and when I did my research I found that up travel is not as important as droop and keeping the up to a minimum it keeps the truck low. This is my first build and I have no experience of my own to be making these decisions so I looked at others and did what seemed to work best.
My links are shorter than most and I for me I get plenty of flex. I guess it matters what the builder wants it to do.
2. The axle was moved forward about 3" to clear the oil pan.
3. Yes my upper link bracket is behind the motor mount.
I have 12" travel shocks and when I did my research I found that up travel is not as important as droop and keeping the up to a minimum it keeps the truck low. This is my first build and I have no experience of my own to be making these decisions so I looked at others and did what seemed to work best.
My links are shorter than most and I for me I get plenty of flex. I guess it matters what the builder wants it to do.
Sean K.
New member
Thanks for the info. That does not bode well for me. I'm trying to get 6" of uptravel, but will live with 5" if that's all I can squeeze out at a low ride height. I'm pushing the axle forward 4".
What limited your uptravel? Was it the link hitting the motor mount or the steering/panhard hitting the frame/diff/engine? I noticed the passenger side drop of the FJ80 axle is going to be close to the A/C compressor with no good way to relocate the compressor b/c it's so big....though I'd love to put the power steering pump down there and put the A/C on top....there's not any room on the passenger side of the engine up high to mount the compressor easily. Was the A/C your limiting factor?
Thanks again.
mmml4
New member
The short up travel was on purpose just to keep it low. If I were to let it the differential would make contact with the oil pan.
I think I could of gone one more inch forward with the axle but since I used the IFS steering box that would of been hard to do, more cutting.
On a side note, with my 35's at full stuff I have no rubbing and I don't plan on going any bigger in tire size either. Like I have said before this set up works for my needs. ERIKB IIRC on pirate went with 40's and kept it low but he did a lot of cutting.
I think I could of gone one more inch forward with the axle but since I used the IFS steering box that would of been hard to do, more cutting.
On a side note, with my 35's at full stuff I have no rubbing and I don't plan on going any bigger in tire size either. Like I have said before this set up works for my needs. ERIKB IIRC on pirate went with 40's and kept it low but he did a lot of cutting.
fightman80
New member
Just found this build.... really nice work man! You got some mad fab skills!
Sean K.
New member
No, I totally get it. I want mine to be as low as possible. I was initially hoping to get 5-6" uptravel with a 20" frame height...but after measuring the truck and running the numbers in the link calculator, I just doubt that's possible. 22" seems doable though....so that's the plan for now.
I plan to cut a lot too.....and I'm going full hydro for the steering, so hopefully that'll give me a little more room.
One more question if you don't mind: How many inches of vertical separation at the axle do you have between the upper and lower links? ***EDIT*** Nevermind....I see you answered that in post 14.***
The most I can get an still get good uptravel is 6.75". With a 37" tire, I'm comfortable going as low as 6" of separation....provided I make the mounts extra heavy duty.
Just wondering what you ended up with.
Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it.
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Sean K.
New member
I know this was asked in Jan....but just in case.
Marlin Crawler or Randy's Worldwide sell flanges with 3 patterns drilled. I'm sure there are others. I want to say they're actually a Yukon (Randy's) product.
White Stripe
New member
Nice build!
I was in the same shape as you for the corner of the bumper, I don't know how flush you want to go but I used square tube and made 2 wings for it. I still had the stock plastic so I left it in but you could plate it and I think it would look fine.
The triangulation really helps with the strength. Had the FJ resting on the wings and only had paint come off the bumper. I also used 1.25" x 1/8" square.
The triangulation really helps with the strength. Had the FJ resting on the wings and only had paint come off the bumper. I also used 1.25" x 1/8" square.
danthemanx07
New member
This is an old build, so I wanted to check in and see how the axle swap was holding up. I have a set of e-locked 80 axles and a 4runner staring me in the face that can all be had for under $3k. Did you ever have any driveline vibes from the offset rear?
