Day 49:
Start point: Mexican Hat UT
End point: Mexican Hat UT
Distance driven: 159 km
Distance hiked: 4.5 km
We were once again very thankful for the superb weather and a temperature around 20C, which allowed me to put on my shorts!!! We took full advantage of it to explore some off-road tracks as well as some short hikes to see archaeological sites of Ancestral Puebloans.
Our first destination of the day was the Lower Comb Wash trail in Bears Ears National Monument, leading to several sites of Native American dwelling ruins, as well as several petroglyph panels. The track runs along Comb Wash and crosses it several times. The approaches to the crossings were sometimes very abrupt following the heavy rains of the last weeks having eroded them.
The trail also follows the route of a Mormon expedition to establish a community at what is now Bluff UT. At one point, this task seemed like a miracle when climbing a long, steep incline. The horses were tied one after the other in line, and allowed to help each other when some lost a little grip.
A junction on the track leads to a plateau offering an interesting view towards our next destination.
Back on the main trail we saw River House cliff dwelling ruins. A staircase made it possible to see them more closely while even exploring a few rooms. Impressive construction, and what a beautiful view of the valley.
The ruins are built on a long shelf where some petroglyphs can be seen.
Further along the main track, it approaches the San Juan River and we passed through a tamarisk grove forming a tunnel of almost perfect dimensions for our 4Runner. This one also probably has new memories in the form of pinstripes. Well, more experience...
At the end of the track, we walked along a path along a very long petroglyph mural, the Kachina Panel. The condition of these and their beauty certainly make it one of the finest examples of these rock works. A River Ranger who docked for a stopover with his son briefly explained to us that the petroglyphs were made during different eras, dating between 800 and 4000 years ago.
After returning to our starting point, we headed down Lime Ridge Road, a track on the high plateau lined with herringbone patterns seen yesterday. Although the main track is in fairly good condition, the secondary tracks leading to several viewpoints are much rockier. We had started one of these secondary tracks in October 2016, but since our vehicle had practically no protection against impacts, we had to turn around. Not today!
A side track joined a San Juan River lookout overlooking Lower Comb Wash Road that we had just hiked, but also a place in Navajo territory that we had considered doing a long off-trail hike, but a sign saying no access prompted us to abandon this project.
Further on, the viewpoints are much higher and deep canyons have been carved out by the San Juan River or its tributaries.
Returning to another viewpoint, drifting along the current of the San Juan River, we could see several groups of boats. These seemed a little lost in the immensity of the landscape. These people certainly must not have thought that they were being watched by us from these exceptional vantage points.
Moreover, we had an unusual view from the top of our plateau towards Monument Valley.
Having completed the long loop on Lime Ridge Road, we headed to another off-road track, Lime Creek Road. This joins the base of Raplee Ridge and its herringbone patterns.
Unfortunately, a past flood completely washed away the ground near Lime Creek and made the trail inaccessible past that point.
Tomorrow, we will reach the high plateau of Grand Gulch to explore other off-road tracks, but also a hike to a site of ruins accessible by permit that we were lucky enough to obtain.