4ever4running
New member
Oh okay gotcha. Thanks for the info but don't worry about digging it up. I will probably just run them in the stock configuraiton and I'm sure they'll be fine.
Just Bought Some LX450 9 Wrap Coils, What Shocks?
- Thread starter 4ever4running
- Start date
4ever4running
New member
One more question, for those guys running the taller LC or LX coils, are you running extended brake lines and/or longer bump stops? Are either necessary/recommended?
4ever4running
New member
bump
Where did you find the Tokico's for $43/side?
Right now I'm waiting to order them at $50 /side shipping included, but why not save 14$! Pays for the coil isolators (less shipping)
Not sure if it matters, but I would go OEM LC struts or Tokico's over Monroe. Much better brand names in my opinion.
Dous
New member
Really? I had to pick up one when I broke both of my Bilstein 5150's at Uwharrie, they only had one, so I figured I would rather drive home with 1 shock than none. I honestly couldnt tell which side had a shock and which didn't. They were way too floaty for my taste
4ever4running
New member
They are $43 per side at Wickedcarparts.com but I am planning on ordering them from AutoAnything.com and try to get them to match the price because I have ordered parts from them before and I know they are reputable.
Duhockey
Senior Member
Actually the Bilsteins will give you a ton of droop compared to most shocks. I know about 6 people that have run them with 9 wraps or the 861 coils... I believe its also one of the better sellers at Toytec.
the other strong option are the LC fj80 shocks that people have mentioned. they are made by toyota to match up with those coils...
I would give Dylan aka Steezemcqueen or Jeff aka Sn0wrunner a call at Toytec tomorrow and they will let you know the best non-toyota option if you dont go with the LC shocks. I dont keep up with the latest stuff, I just ask them. My new shocks are Dylans old ones soo... you get the idea.
Duhockey
Senior Member
oh, I guess you can ignore my previous post... I should read the entire thread before I open my fingers to type..
yes, if you are going to use longer shocks than the procomps (which I currently also am using) you should do an extended brake line. I have wheeled mine for a few years now with the stock brake line tab bent down to allow room but its just too close now.
Bending the brake line tab is a temporary solution that I wouldnt recommend if you go with the longer shocks.
no longer bumpstops are needed. Definitely get a panhard drop bracket though... when you put those LC coils in the axle will get pulled up and off center which will also point it slightly to side... I drove without a panhard drop bracket with LC 9 wraps for about 2 years and it was squirrely as can be.. it would jump all over the place when you hit bumps etc and I would burn through tires faster...
3rd gen king
New member
I'm running the stocks on my 9 wraps,I have Gabriel ultras just get them for a 92 lc (like if you go to autozone or Whatevs)
4ever4running
New member
Thanks for the advice. So its looking like some extended brake lines and panhard drop brackets will be added to the list of parts to get before I install the coils. Would a new panhard bar from Sonoran Steel serve the same purpose as the panhard drop brackets? or are they completely different?
Thanks for the info. I think I am going to go with the Tokico because a lot of guys have run them with good reviews and I can get them for about $80 shipped.
Tokico is a quality brand. Toyota does not make the factory LC strut either. Like Bilistien supply TRD's, it uses another manufacture. Can't think of the name, but same boat. Quality manufacture. I think you can trust Tokico, Bilstien, and the make of the LC strut.. I think it's KYB.
The extendable panhard bar works very similar to the panhard drop with a few exceptions.
1) It doesn't change geometry so the axle still follows the sweeping line of the panhard bar. For this reason, the panhard bar should be as level as possible. The adjustable one does not change this angle. Not a HUGE issue.
2) The panhard DROP lowers the bar making it level, the downside is some have issues with the frame mount becoming distorted because of the extra leverage this brace applies to the mount. For light to moderate off-roading this shouldn't be a concern.
3) The price difference between the two.
4) You could argue the higher the bar the more stable the lift. Mostly likely you are removing the rear sway bar so.... is it an argument?
As you already know, I'll be going with the panhard drop (because I'm cheap, and it does have some benefits), and Tokico's, once again because I'm cheap and they are still a quality part. I'm refraining from the brake line until I determine it necessary.
4ever4running
New member
I am pretty much in the same boat as you Shibby. I think I'm going to try to get the Tokico shocks, extended brake lines, and panhard drop brackets before installing anything so I can just do it all at once. From there I will see if I need to get bump stops and an adjustable panhard bar.
I am actually not planning on removing the sway bar, will that be an issue with the panhard drop brackets? Or will it cause any issues with anything else?
I am actually not planning on removing the sway bar, will that be an issue with the panhard drop brackets? Or will it cause any issues with anything else?
Duhockey
Senior Member
You shouldnt need to remove the sway bar for the panhard drop...
Glad you chose the panhard drop bracket, the extended bar will cause more issues than Shibby mentioned.. As far as the drop bracket is concerned, having someone weld a reinforcement to it and putting a small metal tube inside to support the inside from collapsing will also help.
Forgot to mention that the adjustable panhard will cause your driveshaft, under full flex, to touch the gas plate skid.
Your sway bar will require longer links to connect it because of your lift.
(I'd double confirm this info, I've just researched it, still waiting on Eibachs before I pull the trigger on all the stuff)
4ever4running
New member
Cool, thanks man! This is why I talk to you guys before I start buying and installing stuff.
Yeah I have heard a couple guys having issues with the driveshaft hitting the gas tank skid, but I didn't know what it was caused by so that is definitely good to know.
I will stay tuned about the sway bar links...The panhard drop bracket is supposed to help with traction and stability so maybe just removing the rear sway bar wouldn't be too bad...
4ever4running
New member
So I was looking around for some more info about panhard drop brackets and I came across this post by J-Money$$$ responding to the question, "Is a panhard drop a bad idea?"
"It depends on what you do with your truck. If you plan on wheeling it hard. Its a horrible idea. You can try and brace the bracket and may have good luck with that. I saw Brian's mount start to taco and bend in from the extra force. The leverage really starts add up
If you are just going to be driving around and not really beating on the truck it fine. I have made a few for people that want them, even though i personally would never put one on my truck.
My truck is a wheeler. I dont care one bit about the axle sitting a little offset. I dont even notice it. My truck gets used. almost every weekend. To the edge of what i feel the truck can handle. A Ph drop not properly braced on a wheeler will end up ripping the stock mount"
This info makes me reconsider whether or not a panhard drop is a good idea...Although my truck is predominately a DD, I do take it up to Rausch Creek a couple times per year and beat on it. I really don't want to bend/break the factory mount and have to fab up a new one. I guess one option would be to install and use the panhard drop for DD purposes, but use the factory mounting location when wheeling. Or would you need to jack up the truck in order to do that?
"It depends on what you do with your truck. If you plan on wheeling it hard. Its a horrible idea. You can try and brace the bracket and may have good luck with that. I saw Brian's mount start to taco and bend in from the extra force. The leverage really starts add up
If you are just going to be driving around and not really beating on the truck it fine. I have made a few for people that want them, even though i personally would never put one on my truck.
My truck is a wheeler. I dont care one bit about the axle sitting a little offset. I dont even notice it. My truck gets used. almost every weekend. To the edge of what i feel the truck can handle. A Ph drop not properly braced on a wheeler will end up ripping the stock mount"
This info makes me reconsider whether or not a panhard drop is a good idea...Although my truck is predominately a DD, I do take it up to Rausch Creek a couple times per year and beat on it. I really don't want to bend/break the factory mount and have to fab up a new one. I guess one option would be to install and use the panhard drop for DD purposes, but use the factory mounting location when wheeling. Or would you need to jack up the truck in order to do that?
4ever4running
New member
I haven't ordered them yet but I am planning on ordering them from here: 1991-1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Shocks & Struts - Tokico GE4095 - Tokico Trekmaster Shocks
Anyone have any thoughts on what J-Money$$$ said?
SoAZ4Runner
New member
Hey guys so I have the LX450 Coils as well, I just got some Pro-Comp ES9000 shocks for a 94 LC. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
What did J-money say?
I ordered mine just last Friday. They said they'd ship the 13-16 but shipped Saturday.
They WILL NOT match Wickedparts Tokico shock price because as far as they can tell they are not an authorized seller.
Which makes me fear Wicked parts even more. I figured I'd try for 14$ =) I just got that e-mail today.
AutoAnything appears to be solid though. Other forum members have bought from them before too.
4ever4running
New member
I currently have Pro-Comp shocks and struts and I must say that I am not a fan. I understand that they are stiffer and designed for off-road use, but they are waaaaay too stiff IMO. They are ok when off-road but on road they are really uncomfortable and ride far too stiff for my liking. I will be getting Tokico shocks for the rear and I will probably go with OME or Bilsteins up front when I upgrade the front lift.
Bummer. Oh well, the extra $14 is definitely worth the hassle of buying from a reputable seller. I am hoping to order my shocks up after I get paid in a couple days.
Here is what J-Money$$$ said that I found in another thread.
J-Money$$$ responding to the question, "Is a panhard drop a bad idea?"
"It depends on what you do with your truck. If you plan on wheeling it hard. Its a horrible idea. You can try and brace the bracket and may have good luck with that. I saw Brian's mount start to taco and bend in from the extra force. The leverage really starts add up
If you are just going to be driving around and not really beating on the truck it fine. I have made a few for people that want them, even though i personally would never put one on my truck.
My truck is a wheeler. I dont care one bit about the axle sitting a little offset. I dont even notice it. My truck gets used. almost every weekend. To the edge of what i feel the truck can handle. A Ph drop not properly braced on a wheeler will end up ripping the stock mount"
This info makes me reconsider whether or not a panhard drop is a good idea...Although my truck is predominately a DD, I do take it up to Rausch Creek a couple times per year and beat on it. I really don't want to bend/break the factory mount and have to fab up a new one. I guess one option would be to install and use the panhard drop for DD purposes, but use the factory mounting location when wheeling. Or would you need to jack up the truck in order to do that?
