Bumbo
New member
If you wire it like that you double the AH, but you also double the amps consumed in a 12v system. The net effect is the same. For example a 24 watt LED fog light that can use either 12 or 24 would read like this.
2 amps x 12 volts = 24 watts
1 amp x 24 volts = 24 watts
Anyways... My buddy was taking these things apart, and you basically need an angle grinder to dismantle the cage that holds it all together.
Then you have to break the tabs off the top battery posts that bridge the packs together because they are pretty much spot welded on.
Then drill and tap the posts so you can put a screw in to to hold a terminal.
Then figure out how to safely contain all the work you just did.
I thought about it a lot... and the more I did it felt like a TERRIBLE idea for many reasons... Here are the reasons I am leaving it as is, and using it in a 24v configuration.
In a 3 cell setup, the voltages still don't match up quite right for a 12v system. The nominal voltage of each system is a bit off.
Average 11.4v
Max 12.6v
Min 9v
You still can't just drop it into a car, you would cook the pack with the car running. If you want 12v, go 4 cells of LifePO4 (12.8-13.2v nominal depending on brand). It just that much better for 12v.
24v is still very popular in solar, automotive, RV... higher the voltage the better... Smaller gauge cables, easier to build up for higher watt applications, and better the inverters get as you go up in voltage. 6 cells make for a perfect 24v pack as is.
I have at least one 24v native item already that I actually give a damn about. The ARB fridge alone is a compelling enough reason to just leave it be. It should be noted the fridge is even more efficient run at 24v. (3 amps)
Then comes the fact this thing came from and was designed for a modern day production electric car... A company with a real engineering department made this thing to work and be safe in a modern car. The module is very well built, everything is supported and designed to be mounted very easily to something. I would be throwing away all that engineering and pack infrastructure to make my own.
I think those reasons were enough for me to just enjoy it as it is...
It does not look like there is any logic on board, but I am still reading about it and poking around the pack. I haven't even got to all the extra wires which believe are most likely balance leads so the system could actually monitor each cell. If that is the case, an RC hobby charger would be perfect for this thing.
I'm literally charging this thing right now with my RC car battery charger but its taking forever. Its only moving at 1.7 amps right now... need more power.
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