Brandonium
Member
So the entire hydraulic box comes off too? I will take pics of the process tomorrow.
Just Painted & Installed New C4 Fab Rock Sliders and Fuel Tank Skid
- Thread starter fargo4x4
- Start date
C4 Fabrication
New member
The steps are attached with thread cutting screws. You can add a small amount of lock tite to the screws when re-installing them after powder coat if you are concerned about them vibrating loose. So far we do not know of anyone having this issue.
C4 Fabrication
New member
You do not need to completely remove the hydraulic box. Just remove the bolts that hold it in place so that the box can be pulled away from the frame far enough to fit the rock slider mounting plate behind the box.
Brandonium
Member
Man, they are installed for the most part. The KDSS side was a *****!! I'd recommend completely removing the fuel tank skid just to keep shit out of your way since there's a LOT of shit in the way. I'll explain my issues later, for now I'm off to brewery hop.
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C4 Fabrication
New member
Yes there is a lot of stuff in the way that makes it a real pain on the driver side for sure! Thanks for posting up pics, they look great!
Brandonium
Member
Loving them for sure. They complete the sides nicely.. and are functional!
All my issues were on the drivers side. I suppose my first thought was am I going to break something as you really have to pull hard on those hydraulic KDSS lines and I could never have done it without another pair of hands. Once you have it under the lines you cannot lean the slider outward to clear the tank skid which doesn't drop down far enough unless you undo it completely. Also, if you were to you might create too much of a bind on the line connection to the hydraulic box itself. Once you have slid the slider under the line brackets you only have up/down and side/side movement options but not much as you have lines right up against the front mount also.
I had to trim the steel tab off of the hydraulic line guard near the front mount. I suppose you are supposed to mount the front portion without removing this? I confused that with the hydraulic box guard so I removed it but once the slider was in place and mounted this guard would not fit over the slider without cutting off this tab (I can send pics).
Also, are the KDSS line mounts used as part of the support structure as there were very hard to line up. I have one tight but the other will not tighten but as you know these lines do not flop about so I feel fairly comfortable that they won't move. That rear KDSS line mount did not line up 100% with the frame and the line bracket did not line up 100% with the slider so this was very hard as this bracket doesn't really slide around. I managed to get a bolt in finally after shaking my fist at the heavens.
There was no way I could get the lower rear bolt hole to line up either. It required that I get the slider 1/16" higher than what was possible. I even put a jack under it but all that did was manage to raise the entire vehicle. In the end I had to use one of the factory bolts from the skid to get it in. Is the slider still safe to put weight on if that bolt were to be missing?
I plan on putting some pictures together to help those that might be looking at doing this on a KDSS runner.
It took me about 4.5 hours total. 45 minutes for the passenger side and the rest on the drivers.
All my issues were on the drivers side. I suppose my first thought was am I going to break something as you really have to pull hard on those hydraulic KDSS lines and I could never have done it without another pair of hands. Once you have it under the lines you cannot lean the slider outward to clear the tank skid which doesn't drop down far enough unless you undo it completely. Also, if you were to you might create too much of a bind on the line connection to the hydraulic box itself. Once you have slid the slider under the line brackets you only have up/down and side/side movement options but not much as you have lines right up against the front mount also.
I had to trim the steel tab off of the hydraulic line guard near the front mount. I suppose you are supposed to mount the front portion without removing this? I confused that with the hydraulic box guard so I removed it but once the slider was in place and mounted this guard would not fit over the slider without cutting off this tab (I can send pics).
Also, are the KDSS line mounts used as part of the support structure as there were very hard to line up. I have one tight but the other will not tighten but as you know these lines do not flop about so I feel fairly comfortable that they won't move. That rear KDSS line mount did not line up 100% with the frame and the line bracket did not line up 100% with the slider so this was very hard as this bracket doesn't really slide around. I managed to get a bolt in finally after shaking my fist at the heavens.
There was no way I could get the lower rear bolt hole to line up either. It required that I get the slider 1/16" higher than what was possible. I even put a jack under it but all that did was manage to raise the entire vehicle. In the end I had to use one of the factory bolts from the skid to get it in. Is the slider still safe to put weight on if that bolt were to be missing?
I plan on putting some pictures together to help those that might be looking at doing this on a KDSS runner.
It took me about 4.5 hours total. 45 minutes for the passenger side and the rest on the drivers.
C4 Fabrication
New member
Loving them for sure. They complete the sides nicely.. and are functional!
All my issues were on the drivers side. I suppose my first thought was am I going to break something as you really have to pull hard on those hydraulic KDSS lines and I could never have done it without another pair of hands. Once you have it under the lines you cannot lean the slider outward to clear the tank skid which doesn't drop down far enough unless you undo it completely. Also, if you were to you might create too much of a bind on the line connection to the hydraulic box itself. Once you have slid the slider under the line brackets you only have up/down and side/side movement options but not much as you have lines right up against the front mount also.
I had to trim the steel tab off of the hydraulic line guard near the front mount. I suppose you are supposed to mount the front portion without removing this? I confused that with the hydraulic box guard so I removed it but once the slider was in place and mounted this guard would not fit over the slider without cutting off this tab (I can send pics).
Also, are the KDSS line mounts used as part of the support structure as there were very hard to line up. I have one tight but the other will not tighten but as you know these lines do not flop about so I feel fairly comfortable that they won't move. That rear KDSS line mount did not line up 100% with the frame and the line bracket did not line up 100% with the slider so this was very hard as this bracket doesn't really slide around. I managed to get a bolt in finally after shaking my fist at the heavens.
There was no way I could get the lower rear bolt hole to line up either. It required that I get the slider 1/16" higher than what was possible. I even put a jack under it but all that did was manage to raise the entire vehicle. In the end I had to use one of the factory bolts from the skid to get it in. Is the slider still safe to put weight on if that bolt were to be missing?
I plan on putting some pictures together to help those that might be looking at doing this on a KDSS runner.
It took me about 4.5 hours total. 45 minutes for the passenger side and the rest on the drivers.
That all sounds like common issues for the install. The KDSS side is particularly hard to install. The little tabs for the KDSS hydraulic line cover do not need to be cut off, they can just be hammered flat, but cutting them off works also.
As for the slider not lifting up quite far enough, that is due to the size of the weld seam on the bottom of the frame rail. Some customers have this issue and some others don't. Using a grinder to reduce the size of the weld will solve the issue. But we have also changed the design of our frame mounting plates so that this should no longer be an issue in the future.
Dont worry about not being able to get the one bolt in, the sliders will still be plenty strong enough to put weight on them.
C4 Fabrication
New member
Thank you!
FortRunner9
New member
Rear kick out distance
These look great! Can anyone tell me how many inches the rear kickout of the sliders sticks out from the body?
These look great! Can anyone tell me how many inches the rear kickout of the sliders sticks out from the body?
Varies a bit depending on where on the body they are measured. At the bottom of the door, they are just under 6". Mid-way up the fender they are closer to 3".
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Brandonium
Member
When washing the 4R this weekend I noticed that a few of my Torx screws were loose so I ran around snugging them up however on one of them the head twisted off..
What's the best way of going about removing this screw so I can put a new one in? Is the method the same as bolt extraction just smaller on scale?
What's the best way of going about removing this screw so I can put a new one in? Is the method the same as bolt extraction just smaller on scale?
LowCountrySilverTP
New member
@c4fabrication do you guys offer a military discount? Looking to order your rock sliders asap.
C4 Fabrication
New member
They can be removed with a small extractor, or you can drill it out with a #21 drill bit and thread a new screw in. You may want to put a small dab of lock tite on the new screw to make sure it doesn't come loose again.
ninjaboym5
Junior Member
I just picked up a pro and would be interested in a group buy too.
C4 Fabrication
New member
We are thinking that the next slider GB will most likely be spring next year. I don't think it will happen within this year. We are planning to offer a Lo-Pro winch bumper GB before the end of this year.
