JWaldz '99 Adventure Build - Dual Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored

It felt like it! Almost every trail was like this. This was the top part of the trail. The bottom part is a big ass slate slab and it was a pain in the ass as well. I probably could have just gone a little faster and made it easier but like I said, I was really trying not to break anything lol. I think they were around 14 or 15. Usually run anywhere from 12-15.

Man that must have been crazy slick if you were sliding around like that with only 14-15 PSI in the tires.

I was going to say that could air them down some more (the pitcures/video are deceiving and make it look like they are aired up a lot more than they are) but any lower than that and you run the risk of throwing a bead. Still looks like fun through!
 
Man that must have been crazy slick if you were sliding around like that with only 14-15 PSI in the tires.

I was going to say that could air them down some more (the pitcures/video are deceiving and make it look like they are aired up a lot more than they are) but any lower than that and you run the risk of throwing a bead. Still looks like fun through!

I agree.. Popping a bead on the trail sucks. The 35's take a lot lower psi before they start showing it compared to a 33 or 31.. I'd say around 10psi it would show.

Funny story is a few of my friends who have pretty built dedicated crawlers took the bypass on the left side. At one point though you have to cross over the center section. The said it was so slick the ended up all sliding back down the center of the trail lol. This was earlier in the morning though when everything was pretty soaked. We did it in the early afternoon.
 
I agree.. Popping a bead on the trail sucks. The 35's take a lot lower psi before they start showing it compared to a 33 or 31.. I'd say around 10psi it would show.

Funny story is a few of my friends who have pretty built dedicated crawlers took the bypass on the left side. At one point though you have to cross over the center section. The said it was so slick the ended up all sliding back down the center of the trail lol. This was earlier in the morning though when everything was pretty soaked. We did it in the early afternoon.

Agreed. I have only thrown a bead once but I had a full sized spare so it was a quick swap and I was back on the trail. That is a good point, because at about 15psi, my 33s show a lot more that your 35s (my tires were at about 15psi in my sig pic)

Haha! Moral of the story: Sometimes taking the easy way out isn't as easy as taking the hard way out :lookout:
 
Nice pictures and videos. I'm still impressed with that Lifeproof+Go Pro setup.

I bet that guy in the FJ60 is a cool dude. :)
 
Nice pictures and videos. I'm still impressed with that Lifeproof+Go Pro setup.

I bet that guy in the FJ60 is a cool dude. :)

haha, aside from it falling off that one time it's been great!

The guy in that FJ60 is a total douche bag, I don't know why we ever let him come with wheelin' with us. His old pos cruiser breaks down every 5 minunes, too...


:jk: Love you boo lol (no homo)
 
My baby is gettin old :( I remember it like it was just yesterday with only 125k.

liveW4b3At.jpg
 
OK, OK.. I know it's not that much but it's still a bunch. Wish it could be back down in the 80k range. She's still got a lot of fight left in her though. Just need to take care of some maintenance.

From my weekend to the ORV park and back home, BOTH my seals started to leak. This isn't the first time either. Words cannot explain how FED UP at this point I am with wobbly rear tires and replacing seals, bearings, shafts, etc etc. Not to mention how ancient and crappy rear drum brakes are. I haven't had an ebrake since hell, I don't remember now and ABS sucks anyways... SO, I've decided to use what I've saved up for the rear bumper so far plus anything extra from holidays/birthday and whatever else I save for the FROR full float kit. Aiming for the beginning of the year. I'm open to opinions & discussion.
 
because of my lack of knowledge, im assuming the benefits with the FROR setup would be the brakes but does it also fix the axle seal issue? im not completely 100% understanding the FROR kit, ill look into it,
 
because of my lack of knowledge, im assuming the benefits with the FROR setup would be the brakes but does it also fix the axle seal issue? im not completely 100% understanding the FROR kit, ill look into it,

Basically what it does is it makes it so that all the axle shafts do, in terms of pressure, are drive the wheels. All the other force/pressure is on the Full Floater on the outside of the hub I believe.

Someone tell me I'm partially right?
 
I'm in a similar boat - as far as I know, the rear drums could still be original from the factory. I've yet to open em up and look at them myself, and I've been wanting to replace the rear brakes anyhow. I'm trying to compare cost of redoing the drums, vs swapping to a disk brake. One mandatory thing for me though, is retaining the ebrake.
 
Basically what it does is it makes it so that all the axle shafts do, in terms of pressure, are drive the wheels. All the other force/pressure is on the Full Floater on the outside of the hub I believe.

Someone tell me I'm partially right?

you are correct the FROR set up makes the rear axle a full floating axle so the weight of the truck is carried only on the bearings and the hub not the axle. This fixes the problem of bent axle shafts but ARK if you go that way make sure you truss the housing as they bend as well. just my 2c's
 
psssh. 166k..that's nothing.. I'm at like 267k... old.. lol

haha. The good thing about seeing all these other 4Runners running strong with so much more mileage is a piece of mind :D

you are correct the FROR set up makes the rear axle a full floating axle so the weight of the truck is carried only on the bearings and the hub not the axle. This fixes the problem of bent axle shafts but ARK if you go that way make sure you truss the housing as they bend as well. just my 2c's

THIS



Also, check this video out and you'll have a better understand of how the stock setup is and why so many of our seals begin to leak. What this guy did was flip his axle seal retainer and supposedly it fixed his problem with the seals leaking. If you watch carefully you can see how it works within the axle. The shaft is allowed just a minimal amount of play by the axle seal retainer and axle seal itself. A good amount of hard wheeling can throw this off and so can worn out bearings.

3rd Gen Toyota 4runner rear axle seal leak repair (ABS axles) - YouTube

Here's the discussion for it..
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-solution-leaking-axle-seals.html#post1060244

The reason I'm going this route is b/c of the more hardcore wheeling I do. This will eliminate my leading cause for the seals leaking, my bearings going out, and the wheel wobble I'll eventually end up with if it's not fixed. That and the conversion to disc brakes. Thank you for the advice on the truss. I have looked into it, but didn't know if it was absolutely necessary. Honestly, I don't do any jumps or wheel any harder than my truck can handle. Plus, I don't recall anyone making a specific truss for our rear 8". The only one that comes to mind is the BTF one. It would still require a good amount of fabbing to make it work. The biggest thing trying to figure out how to get the upper links to work. I think it would be too much work for such a small gain.

yotatruss_pop.jpg
 
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My thought was more home made. Honestly a piece of 4 inch strap maybe 1/4 inch thick and trimmed to contour of the top of the housing then welded on edge would do the job. I agree that the BTF truss means reworking the whole rear suspension and that is a lot of work including a fuel tank swap. But you should wait on that till you go 1 tons front and rear :guitar3::guitar3::guitar3:

Sam

Ps. I don't think you need to jump your rig to bend a housing. Just ask dirtco lol
 
Thanks guys!

Haha, besides gasoline.. probably nothing lol. Probably wont see any big updates here until January. Maybe a couple small things here and there before then.
 

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